larryb

I always just bring my laptop. But if the reason you didn't bring yours is it's big and heavy and expensive, consider an educational laptop. They are made for kids in school. I bought one last year on sale for $150. They are cheap, small, light, and durable. If you lose it or it's stolen, you aren't out much. You can toss it in your bag without a case. Performance is not great, but adequate for this use. Lenovo is always putting them on sale, so just watch their site for a few weeks and you are guaranteed to find a good deal. https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/p/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad11e/thinkpad-yoga-11e-(5th-gen)/20lms09v00

3M Dual Lock https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Reclosable-Fastener-SJ3550-Black/dp/B07STXS463/ref=asc_df_B07STXS463/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=344024262602&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2244750348005263521&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014208&hvtargid=pla-774142944186&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=70729705873&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=344024262602&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2244750348005263521&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014208&hvtargid=pla-774142944186

I’ve posted this before. Here is how I solved the clutter problem. I bought some extra tubing and push connectors on eBay and routed the tubes behind the panel. Tube to the tank runs behind the pilot side wall. I used short piece of spiral wrap to attach the tube to the headset cord.

It happens. My MSC is 20 minute flight away but I have worked with a local mechanic here and there if there is problem where you can’t fly to your main shop. It’s all about building good working relationships.

For 4 people on a regular basis you need a 6 seat airplane.

My first airplane after my PPL in the mid 80's was a Grumman Yankee. It had the 150 HP STC'd IO320 installed, so it had very good performance. The downside was it only had 22 gallons fuel, so no long legs. I had it about 5 years and 500 hours. A Tiger would have been nice, but just starting out back then the Yankee was what I could afford.

I turn off the field before shutdown and turn it on after startup. The reason I do it is to preserve as much battery power for the starter as possible. Before start the voltage regulator sees a lower voltage than it wants. Therefore it commands full field current in an attempt to bring up the voltage. It has no idea the engine is not running. This field current is around 5 amps. 10 amps if you have dual alternators. Since airplane batteries are very small, I'd like to save all possible current for the engine start and not waste it.

At least a few years ago these weren’t that expensive. My shop just replaced one that was cloudy.

The first question to ask is "Do I need it?" Most modern avionics have internal fans and do not need a blower anymore. That happened to me, after an avionics upgrade the installed avionics blower was still there but all the hoses were stuffed in the console and not connected to any equipment. Once I discovered that I had it removed. And I still have it in the hangar if somebody needs a 28V avionics blower.

When I had my J model I had the 796 XM puck under the glare shield and it worked perfectly, always a strong signal. When I got my Encore I tried the same and it never worked. Weak signal, dropouts in turns, etc. Tried to find a place on top of the glare shield and that didn't work either. Tried a couple different pucks, no improvement. I figured there must have been some interference source in the panel area that was messing with the signal. Eventually I transitioned to a GDL52-R mounted in the tail and hard-wired to the 796 and the audio panel for music. I already had an XM antenna mounted on the top of the cabin from the legacy GDL69 and I had a 2nd ADSB-in antenna installed under the belly pan. This gave me solid signal strength for XM, a 2nd ADSB-in receiver, and no visible wiring.

In my experience the problem has always been the flap relay. There are several versions. A skilled mechanic or avionics shop could do a component level repair and replace the relays even if they are soldered to the board.

My mid time IO 360 used a quart every 4 to 5 hours during the 5 years I owned it. More during IFR training and less during my normal cross country usage.

I print in PETG for almost everything. I’ll print in ABS if I really need the higher temperature rating. I did the wingtip light project in ABS because of the heat. ABS requires a heated enclosure to avoid warpage.

Well it has the carbon fiber cowl to offset the heavier interior. So light!

I had an ‘84 J and I now have a ‘97 Encore. The newer model has a much nicer interior. No more Royalite. Nice fabric covered fiberglass. Better soundproofing as well.

After I purchased my Encore 5 years ago I spent a year chasing O2 leaks. I found several. The first leak was at the fill port. Previous mechanic had over-tightened the nut totally distorting the insides. Swagelok sells a go/no-go gauge so you can determine proper tightening. It's cheap. I recommend it. I found this leak with soap spray. Second was an old o-ring on the high pressure line connection to the regulator. This connection may be an issue for the OP. It wasn't the same as the standard Swagelok fittings for the rest of the system. There is an o-ring and a collar soldered to the copper line. Third was the regulator itself. It was leaking internally, even when the lever was fully closed. It had to be overhauled. C&L Aero, 530-223-0667, did my regulator overhaul and was very knowledgeable. They should know about the makeup of the high pressure connection to the regulator.

The fittings are made by Swagelok and are available from directly on their website.

I add one of these every few fillups. It results in 0.2% for my 75 gallons. I have also experienced unexplained momentary stumbles but not while using the IPA. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07J62C1K5/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Yes. They allow you to fly an approach at 150 kt and slow to gear speed and also stay on the GS. That may not matter everywhere but it does matter when you have to sequence with the jets at a big airport.

This thread is exactly what I needed! I have a couple cowl holes that barely hold the current camlocs and was wondering what to do about it.

Yes, expensive. But no more than daycare for a couple kids, private school for 1 or 2, and less than a year of college pretty much anywhere these days. I’m pretty sure that if anybody calculated their actual yearly cost for their Ford F250 they would be horrified.

If a piston single is too expensive then just buy a piston twin.

Another thing to remember is that over time the purchase price is a small part of the overall ownership cost. It's not uncommon to spend 20% to 30% of that purchase price every year to fly and maintain the airplane.

To prevent corrosion, what you really want to do is keep the surface of the metal dry. If the water molecules are held in suspension in the air, they are not on the metal and therefore not available to cause corrosion. If the air is warm, and the metal is similarly warm, and the RH is low, then that water vapor will not condense on the surface of the metal.

I think the key finding here can be seen in the RH between 12 AM Tuesday and 6 AM Wednesday. It drops from 80% to 35% with the temperature being a constant 90 degrees F the whole time. So I'd say there is 56% less water molecules per cubic foot at the end of the test period.