M20F-1968

The C has a different locking mechanism than the J. The new planes have the clothespin type grabbing mechanism on the top of the door that pulls the top of the door in towards the doorframe. The C has a hook type mechanism. They will adjust differently. No sure which you have. But for the door to open completely, the main securing pin must retract into the door. Sounds like the "over-center" adjustment is faulty. This is adjusted inside the door itself by removing the interior panel. John Breda

The Aero Comfort boot did not work for me. Hector made a boot that simply had a vertical cylinder of leather sewn into the center of a flat piece of leather. That simply did not work. The leather was too thick and the flat piece did not fold onto itself very well thus binding under the Johnson bar. (In all do respect, I just saw a NOS boot made of cloth on E-bay and it was made this was). However, my original boot in a 1968 F was made somewhat differently, and had some pleats, in the form of an "X" around where the vertical cylinder is sewn. This creates some slack in the leather, and keeps the sewn parts away for the area directly under the Johnson bar. This configuration worked for me. The boot is held into the airplane using three strips of aluminum screwed to the floor so the leather can move. This is per the original Mooney drawings. There are attached pictures of my original boot and our copy. The original has an O ring around the bar but we did not do this to minimize thickness. The material we used is a 4-way stretchable Euroleather which, when compared to leather is more stretchable and thinner. Another quality you want in the J bar boot is its ability to block gasess - CO, so synthetic material may be better. The original cloth had a vinyl piece sewn to the back of it. John Breda

The pin at the forward upper part of the passenger door is static, and should fit into an opening in the door frame. The adjustment should be that the tip if the pin fits into the airframe when the doos closes (without any nned to play with it) and the opening in the door frame should ride along the pin as you close the door. The pin should hold the top of the door in and in flight, should prevent the door from being sucked outward as occurs in the negitive pressure around the airframe. No, the pin does not move and there is no mechanical linkage attached to it. It simply needs to be positioned correctly on the door relative to the cut-out in the airframe into which it fits. John Breda

The major parts are available, specifically the turbo, scavenger pump and wastegate. The exhaust is unique but can be made. For what it is worth, I have a completely rebuilt original RayJay system with the STC's and paperwork. It was originally designed and documented for installation on an E or F (IO-360 A1A) but could be installed on a J with DAR approval. The modification would need to be the re-routing of hoses to the J model style air box as opposed to the F model style air box. I have even made a prototype intercooler and pop-off valve (and have the tooling jig to make the part) so the older system could have both the intercooler and pop-off as does the M20 system. The advantage to the older system is that it has a manual wastegate so a higher critical altitude is possible and the turbo need not run full-time. Kelley Aerospace (who owned the STC for a long time) also suggested to me that the system be installed without the flapper box which would simplify the install. Everything has been rebuilt with thicker stainless steel than the original and with a much beefier wastegate. You can call me to (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com if you want to discuss further. John Breda

The first and second call I would make Monday would be to the two insurance companies. The third call would be to Beegles Aircraft in Colorado. They are a quality shop that does structural repairs and probably better suited than anyone else besides the factory (which as we know is not yet up and running) to assess and repair the damage. The factory should be able to make a new aileron (and you may be able to get two from them). Repair of the rudder should be assessed by Beegles. Beegles is not cheap however but they do excellent work. The insurance companies like them because they get the work done with excellent results. They will make arrangements to get your aircraft to them as well. The insurance will need to pay their costs to get your aircraft to their shop. Is your rudder a short rudder? If so, I have one you may be able to use. Even if the wing has structural damage, Beegles should be able to fix it. The cost to repair may be prohibitive as weighed against the hull value however. For what it is worth, I also have a good wing from a 67 F that may come in handy. You can start with their insurance. They should be responsive to your claim since they will know that if they are not, your insurance will handle the matter and subrogate against them. The hull value may be an issue. It certainly will be an issue with your insurance since you have contracted with them for that amount. You can negotiate to but the aircraft back from them if they do total it. The hull value may be an issue if you work through the other insurance as well given that they know the matter can go away for them if they pay your insurance the total hull value. You may have some leverage however given that you use the aircraft for business and there may be business losses you can claim against the other guys insurance, and aircraft rental costs you can claim against the other guy's insurance. You should push both insurers as much as you need to. Your has a contractual obligation to cover your damage up to the hull value. Theirs knows they will ultimately be on the hook for the damage and other losses in the end. Let us know how this plays out. John Breda

The panels you have are made of Royalite. It is a petroleum product and gets very brittle with age. The panels are also thin and the substance usually softens with many types of solvents and adhesives. Fiberglass resin alone will not help you. You could use the original panels as a mold and lay-up new panels by hand. Your usable part would be the fiberglass part you have made. This can work and I have done so with my Royalite nose wheel cover. I first made a new part laying up over the Royalite part using just boat yard fiberglass resin. I hand finished that part, and then one that had a nice shape and finish, used that part to make a new part using flame retardant resin and fiberglass cloth which is the new part in the airplane. I used the Ovation interior panels for the ceiling, window surround areas and the cabin panels below the windows. This is an easier way to go as most of the panel areas are already made for you. The factory panels can be cut and refiberglassed together in the length and shape needed for your airframe. All you really nned is a good work space, plently of gloves, hand tools and a sander. Once you hace a good shape, they can be covered in leather, ultra leather (immitation leather) or cloth (Eurostretch). The panel below the windows are essentially flat, and some people have made a concave fiberglass insert to be placed in the 4 seat positions that also houses the arm rest. This allows you to work with a flat panel (could even be aluminum) and have recessed arm rests to give additional cabin room and not end up looking like a flat part. The top of the aluminum can be rolled to fit against the window. I have a set of left and right Ovation ceiling panels left over from my plane. I set out to do just as I described, but later furchased the whole interior from a crashed Ovation, seats and all, so I have parts left over. You can look at my gallery shoing work in progress. It is just about done now. You can e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com or call at (617) 877-0025. Thanks, John Breda

How much? My email is johnabreda@yahoo.com John

Give Erik at McKee Aviation in San Marcos a call. His is able to do anything you would need whether it be installation or repair. Brian Kendrick is also working out of that same shop (former Mooney Factory Service Manager). John Breda

I have done the OEM J model cowling on a Vintage Mooney (1968 F). You can call me at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com to discuss. Thanks, John Breda

I actually have a letter from Mooney in my files indicating that the wings have been structurally the same. The steel cage on the newest airplanes have been changed somewhat, but for what you are stating, the E, F, G, J, K have the same wings, with fuel tank differences. The F model will have the same fuel tank configuration as the J. John Breda

The wing from the Vintage Mooney's up to present production, believe it or not, is the same wing but for the fuel tank configurations and the wing tips. If you are interested, I have a very clean wing from a 67 F model available as well. You can e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com or call me at (617) 877-0025. Thanks, John Breda

Welcome to the board. I also have a highly modified F model which people look at and wonder in which year it was made. Given that you have a retractable step I would guess yours is in the 67-68 tear range. Where are you in Germany. Perhaps we could meet for a Beer? Do you fly the alps much? John Breda

I am a Board Certified Internist and Senior AME (Class I, II and III) in the Boston, MA area. I always as pilots to do the MedXpress form before coming in, print the form and bring the certification number. If they do not print it out, I can still look at it on line with them. There is a provision for me to change information entered on the form but only with the pilot's permission, knowledge and authorization. I must certify that I have those consents to alter any of the pilot's answers. If I can help provide any answers feel free to e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com I do my exams in the Concord, MA area. Thanks, John Breda

I would encourage you to take a realistic and goal oriented approach. Your goal now is to learn to fly. That is best accomplished with you being focused on that task, not servicing and performing maintenance on your own airplane. A Mooney is not a plane you want to fly when you do not yet have the skills to fly by the numbers and with precision. It takes time to gain that experience and control over the airplane. A Cessna 172 is forgiving of student's mistakes. A Mooney is not. You should get your initial training in a rented plane, and advance to various aircraft as you progress. I learned in Pipers and Cessnas and got my private license in about 40 hours. Starting about 60 hours, I began my instrument training (dual until I had the required hours for IFR check ride) in a Grumman Tiger. That was actually a very good experience if you wish to later buy a Mooney since it is fixed gear and neither high performance nor complex and has a fixed pitch prop, but it is fairly sensitive and somewhat slippery in the air and is a floater which the Mooney is as well. These were all good characteristics in that it was less forgiving than the C and P varieties, but not complex. It allowed me to advance in my abilities to control the plane, without the jump to a Mooney or Bonanza. You do not want to bang around in a Mooney as a student pilot, as you may get into trouble. Let alone, bang around in YOUR Mooney which will cost you money if you do get into trouble (prop strike, etc...). If you must buy, buy a trainer that will hold its value, then sell it when you are done with it. Just don't buy a dog that you will have to put a bunch of money into as you will not get it back. My opinion, John Breda

I have a CAD drawing for several updated panels, and also have some panels which I cut but did not use. Look in my gallery for the end result. One earlier version used steam gauges. E-mail if you can use any of this stuff. My e-mail is johnabreda@yahoo.com John Breda

I have several which I accumulated while doing my rebuild. I have not had a chance to try them for size and fit. I am sure that I will have one or two to sell. Keep in touch over the next few weeks and I will know more. John Breda

This was a 1950's - 1960's thing. My parents always bought Oldsmobiles and each one came with 2 sets of keys in a leather case like this. John Breda

I am a Mooney owner, an board certified internal medicine physician and an FAA AME. Send me a PM privately or e-mail me at (617) 877-0025 and we can discuss. I do not want to discuss medical matters in an open forum. My e-mail address is on my profile page or just send me a private message on this forum. Thanks, John Breda

A concern between a vacuum artificial horizon and and electric artificial horizon is that the vacuum unit is able to correct from an unusual attitude more readily and is more stable. Yes you have a vacuum pump, but that is a plus when everything else is electric. This is the reason I have the electronic G600, 3" vacuum AI and 2" electric AI. John Breda

When I bought my JPI 930 there were "two versions" which were in fact identical, the certified and non-certified. The only difference was that the certified version had the limits and data set by the FAA installed in a way that this info could not be changed. As I recall, there as a significant percentage increase for the certified version. John

I have changed it, but I can not be very much help. I brought my empennage to the factory in 2008. They de-mated the vertical stabilizer from the horizontal, checked everything, changed the rubber you mentioned and put it back together. I know of no other way. John Breda

The cross section (extrusion) of the seat rails are the same. The amount of milling (relief) to allow removal of the seat is different (but may in fact not matter). The width and installation oif the rails in the airframe is the same, therefore the seats are interchangable. John Breda

I have two parking brake valves that are in excellent condition. I would recommend that you NOT rebuild your original senders. The newer style senders are better, more stable and can be retrofitted to your airplane. They are mounted identically with the same mouting hardware and footprint. The newer style ones are also impedence driven and the gauges will register them like it did the old ones. I have two used and rebuilt newer style senders if you are interested. (see attached pictures) There are also available options for new individual STC'd electronic fuel gauges to replace the needle fuel gauges as well. You can e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com or call me at (617) 877-0025. Thanks, John Breda

I have the original rheostat controls from a 1967 F model. I am sure they are the same as yours. If you are interested, please call me at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com Thanks, John Breda