Jump to content

M20F-1968

Basic Member
  • Posts

    1,819
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by M20F-1968

  1. My plane is closer to living in its new home - namely my hanagr as opposed to that of various mechanics. I posted some pictures and will post more updates soon. I have a bunch of parts left over and am trying clean out the hangar. Some are quite nice such as a completely rebuilt RayJay turbo normalizer system. Others are small parts just left over that someone might need. I have updated the photos on photobucket. The link is: http://s1067.photobu...reda/?start=all If there is anything you might need or want, please call me at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at: johnabreda@yahoo.com I have documentation for many F model mods which I have generated which led to FAA approval, so if you are thinking of a project you might give me a call. Thanks for looking, John Breda
  2. The part is the same as the current production. In fact, the door from the current models fit as well. John Breda
  3. M20F-1968

    DSCN5595 (Large)

    From the album: 1968 M20F Rebuilt completely 2015

    Only picture I have in my files with the cowling on after being painted.
  4. M20F-1968

    DSCN5530 (Large)

    From the album: 1968 M20F Rebuilt completely 2015

    Getting closer to finishing this bird. Some of you have asked for an update on this project so here are some pictures after paint and before the interior is installed.
  5. The wing is 5 hours drive from me. Let me know if you want to go this route and I will work on it. John Breda
  6. I agree with Cruiser - If the Aspen is anything like the Garmin equipment, the type of back-up instruments are sepcified and you will need to stay with those or get approval to deviate from the STC. Another cpnsideration I made is that people who know gyros indicated to me that electric gyros do not right themselves in the event of an unusual attitude as quickly as vacuum gyros. For this reason I retained the vacuum gyro as my only vacuum instrument left (although I also have a vacuun retractable step). Thus I have the Garmin 600, a 2" Midcontinent gyro a,d a 3" vacuum. John Breda
  7. With this post it would seem that keeping an extra spring (the one inside the handle of the Johnson bar) handy in the cockpit would be prudent. That way, even if the handle comes apart, you can still insert the extra spring (assuming the original one flew into the back seat or somewhere else prohibiting it to be found in flight) and still be able to lock the gear down once for landing. John Breda
  8. Physician - Internal medicine and ER. I am an FAA AME in Concord, MA. Formerly a symphonic clarinetist who also rebuilt and built woodwind instruments - which lead me to my Mooney rebuild project.
  9. I have a nice 1967 wing which is available for purchase. It has no damage or corrosion. This may be your cheapest option. You can e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com or call me at (617) 877-0025 Thanks, John Breda
  10. Paul stripped and re-sealed my tanks last Jan. He does nice work and was easy to work with. John Breda
  11. I am dealing with this now. I purchased one from Aero Comfort and it is designed with a cylindrical cuff sewn vertically onto a flat piece of leather. It did not work at all. There are 2 issues. 1) The Johnson bar comes very close to the nose gear wheel well and the cylindrical cuff is too thick 2) the flat piece of leather does not give enough to accommodate the angled bar movement. I have the original part from the factory. It is made with the stitching in an "X" pattern with each line of stitching 45 degrees to the length of the airplane. Clearance with the floor is less of an issue than clearance with the aileron linkage just under the floor and visible through the floor cut-out. When the Johnson bar fold, there should not be any seams in the material in the area between the Johnson bar and the aileron linkage. When installing, glue the forward part ahead of the Johnson bar 1st, with the Johnson bar upright. Then lower the bar the next day when that glue is dry and glue the rest of the bar allowing enough material to allow for the angled part of the bar to move. I do not have pictures yet. If anyone has any better ideas I would like to hear them as well. You can use bathing suit material as LASAR does but it is not good as a fume barrier. This stretchable euroleather type fabric is probably best. I found some the is 4 way stretchable. John Breda
  12. I guess the AMU (Aviation Monetary Unit) applies to scale models as well - 1/2 AMU for a desk ornament? John
  13. I used a very thin (about 1/8") dense stick on insulation from Skandia designed as vibration dampening for the firewall . Over it I used nomex felt and flame retardant naugahyde. This was fashioned in pieces so it could be removed if need be. You can call me at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com Thanks, John Breda
  14. I have a few new, fire sleeved and Teflon oil hoses which are new and unused from my rebuild project which are available. If you let me know the length and specifications of the hoses you need I will check them and advise. I can be reached at (617) 877-0025 and e-mail johnabreda@yahoo.com I also have some hydraulic hoses that are also available. Thanks, John Breda
  15. Do you still have these? John Breda
  16. You should not have to replace the seat rails. John Breda
  17. I have an inside door latch handle if you need it. You can call me at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com Thanks, John Breda
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.