M20F-1968

I believe I have that cable. Please e-mail me the length and a picture if possible to johnabreda@yahoo.com Thanks, John Breda

I have an excellent original top cowling from a low time (1900 hrs) 1968 M20F (my airplane). I can send pictures. Please e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com You can also call me at (617) 877-0025. I also have an excellent set of cowl cheeks (original side doors). John Breda

You can purchase plastic pipettes such as used in a scientific lab. They come in various sizes and lengths. I bought a package of them on e-bay for short money. You can use the markings on the pipette and either number the pipette in gallons or use a calibration card. Place pipette in tank, put finger over end, withdraw, read level. John Breda

My I recommend that when people post the airport identifier, they also post city and state. This would avoid having to look it up and makes screening the posting for useful information quicker. Thanks, John Breda

If you are truely letting them fly, you will see them increase their wing's angle of attack, slow down, and "flare" before landing. John

I have some panels which I made in the process of my rebuild. My avionics kept getting upgraded so I have a collection. You can email me at johnabreda@yahoo.com and I'll send some pictures. John Breda

Jimmy's reputation for selling clean, straight Mooneys is well known, and a peek at his upcoming inventory, along with his presence on the site would be potentially helpful for owners and non-owners alike. This site is here to share information and the more experienced you are with this fleet of aircraft the more potentially valuable one's input is. I say let him post and share what he can, either aircraft for sale or experience and knowledge. It will be a win-win in the end for all. John Breda

I have a bunch of parts left over from my F model rebuild. You can e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com or call me at (617) 877-0025. Let me know what you might need. I have some airframe parts, a complete rebuilt RayJay turbo system, cowl top, cowl cheeks, new GPS rod antenna, etc... John Breda

So guys, what do you think the paint scheme on the AOPA cover Mooney will do to resale value... increase or decrease? John Breda

Just to add my 2 cents and experience... The FAA is not going to authorize a 337 on non-STC'd and/or TSO'd gauges where monitoring fuel and engine status are concerned. The thought of a 337 is nice, but the FAA is not doing outright field approvals, and a DER will not approve such gauges without approved data which he/she can act upon. The choices still are the original gauges that are approved for the aircraft or an already STC'd gauge set such as the JPI 930. One can apply for an STC on non-approved gauges, but the lead time on such a project is not short and owners should not expect to be using such gauges anytime soon if at all. John Breda

Yes, I have a bunch of parts left over from this project. Trying to clean out the hangar. I still have the RayJay system - completely rebuilt, with both STC's, drawing and diagrams. Is there anything that you might need? My 68 F is now flying and in annual. It is to be painted this month. John Breda

For all that are interested, I have a working nice set of gauges from a 1967 F model, as well as a nice working set from a J model. The F model gauges were removed for a 201 panel upgrade and the J model gauges were removed when the prior owner parted out the airplane at his wife's insistence (she was a lawyer and was afraid of the liability of selling an airplane he had worked on for many years). You can e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com if interested or call me at (617) 877-0025. I can send pictures when I am at my home computer. Thanks, John Breda

I believe the type certificate may have a list of minimal equipment. John Breda

I would not use the old style fuel senders from the F model, even if they were rebuilt. I would install the newer style which is in the current production. The new ones are mostly the same except for the shape of the arm. There are retrofit numbers for the J (and I believe F) which is the same tank. I have two extra inboard senders if you would like and 2 outboard senders with straight arms. You can call me at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com Check with your A&P. In any case, the newer style senders are much more reliable mechanically. Design wise, the float arm is shorter and errors are not magnified. John Breda

I have a 50 amp Interav alternator for a Mooney along with its voltage regulator and overvoltage regulator. I bought it when I commenced my rebuild project of my F model but quickly acquired more avionics than I needed, thus bought a 70 am alternator and used it. I am sure we can arrive at an acceptable price as I am now trying to rid my hangar of parts left over. You can e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com or call me at (617) 877-0025. Thanks. John Breda

To add rgt sided brajkes, you will need the rgt brake padals, a pair of master cylinders and install the extra brake lines. The brake lines can be made. There are several brake line configurations which Mooney has used. I have the drawings from Mooney for the reported best version and it does not use a shuttle valve. If you do it this way you will need a DER (or possibly IA) to sign off. John Breda

I have a set of working gauges (entire cluster) from a 1967 low time M20F. You can call me at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com if interested. John Breda

I have a set of working gauges (entire cluster) from a 1967 low time M20F. You can call me at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com if interested. John Breda

The pre-oiler that I have is made by Oilamatic. The web site is: http://www.oilamatic.com/ It is a pump type pre-oiler. Weight about 6 lbs. Pros: more oil at start-up Cons: does not do much for cylinders, camshaft lobes Weight - 6 lbs More connections and oil hoses to fail John Breda

I agree that limiting the postings to: 1) The owner who had work performed, and the results of that work, and any objective facts, documents, evidence. 2) The shop's reply would be the best approach. It needs to be a a short, objective, easily reviewed and read site of owners' experiences. Listings could be by state and by specialty (airframe, general maitenance, paint, engine rebuild, avionics, etc...) The emotions should be left out, post what is factual and readily proven. John Breda

I second Jezzie's sentiment. I did my rebuild project 1500 miles away from where I live. I had to redo a bunch of work done by the original mechanics. I subsequently found a 40 year old sheetmetal manager from Gulfstream who did sheetmetal work for me and did very nice work. Like everything, its all about the people. If you are not nearby, the mice will play if the mice are so minded. Now the mice have to deal with 2 legal judgments against them. John Breda

I have a new preoiler which I originally put on my rebuilt 1968-F model, but then removed it due to weight concerns before completing the weight and balance. I now feel as though there is sufficient useful load to consider it putting back on, but need a better sense of whether these things are indeed helpful. I live in New England, have a Reiff heater, and can easily see myself using the plane in the winter to fly to Maine, NH, Vermont, and Canada where I may not have electric available or even a hangar overnight. For those of you in the cold climates, please advise. Thanks, John Breda

I just finished reading the thread "legal Action Against a Certain Shop in Florida" and decided to start this thread. Having been the vicitim of some unscrupulous mechanics in Texas I have to support the idea of a forum where objective and factual stories can be posted, showing both the good and the bad. I was new to this industry 8 years ago and was quite surprised to see the variability (to be polite) in the levels of competence, integrity and honesty acress the various A&P mechanics from which we as owners have to choose. I was surprised at how inconsistently an A&P or IA certification translates into what an owner may or may not expect in terms of competency. That is to say nothing of honesty and integrity. I think that an "Angie's List" devoted to A&P mechanics would be helpful. No one would complain about the listing of "Kudos" for the shops who all know and love. If owners can stick to objective experiences in their description of their bad experiences, that can be helpful as well for all of us. If one owner had a bad experience. and several owners post good experiences with the same shop, the truth will show as an average of all the responses. I would like to see such a section created on this forum. I would likie to hear if there are other owners who feel that this would be helpful. Thus, references for mechanics, avionics, paint, etc... can be derived from one site. Thanks, John Breda

WOW - This is disheartening. I though I enjoyed flying, in part, by getting away from the ego/self centered jackasses like this that walk the earth. Is there any way of knowing what happened at the end of his flight? John Breda

I have an essentiually new Lone Star 14V to 28V converter. It is the newer model LS03-05002 (. It was screwed into place in the aircraft but never wired or installed fully. I bought it new from Lone Star when I thought I would be installing an Artex Nav interface box which was 28V. The ME406 came out which was a smaller Artex ELT. Artex took back the Nav Interface and swapped the ELT leaving me with the Lone Star Converter. This is the newer version, smaller in size and measures 2 3/8 X 3 3/4 X 2". If you can use it I am sure we can agree on price. New it selle for about $380 - I am looking to get about $250. You can e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com or call me at (617) 877-0025. Thanks, John Breda