Bartman

Runway at home if able, or location with repair services. That's if I know ahead of time and have sufficient fuel.

With light loading I can get my J off at the 1000 foot turn at my home airport. It requires braking of course but requires a fair amount of pressure. Kinda like the old 69 Rambler with Bartman powered brakes that I learned to drive in. Maybe we are all just used to the smart anti-lock power brakes in the new cars.

If you just bought it were the brakes serviced before you got it ? I ask because of experience. First time I had the brakes serviced a few years ago they had to bleed old thickened brake fluid and had difficulty getting it out of the parking brake actuator, but finally got it working. Had to bleed the brakes with the pressure pot from the bottom up I was told. This past annual I had new Flight Custom II installed on the mains and brakes pads installed just because they were both nearly 10 years old. Yes that's right 10 years old and nearly 900 hours because I learned quickly the brakes are not very effective and have to land at the right speed and all. Anyway, after new pads this year I gave it a while for the pads to wear down and mate to the rotors but ended up having to flush the brakes again and then bleed from the bottom up with the pressure pot. I was not there and don't know the specifics on the bleeding process but someone else can chime in. Now they work fine just like before, but as said above they are still pretty weak.

I noticed the altitude boxes when I zoomed in on a local airport last evening. The one I looked at was correct, but I have not looked at ORD. Getting it wrong on one of the biggest airports in the world on the roll-out of a new feature sure is embarrassing for the developer, and a potential violation for the user.

Wow I feel bad for you. I have nothing to compare so I cannot say I know how you feel or anything like that. Hope the resolution goes as smooth as possible and I'm sure we will all be watching this thread.

I have a panel mounted GPS, the Avidyne 440 and it does not have any fingerprints at all. That's because I use the IFD 100 Ipad app for all entry except for the squawk code and I use the knobs for that. Bartman drops the mike and walks away....

Kill 2 birds with one expensive stone. Consider upgrade to the Avidyne 540.

WOW

I'm not concerned about the 50 LOP mag check, it's doing what it's supposed to do. Not really concerned about the EGT and CHT numbers either, just posting an observation. If someone else is seeing slow rise in peak EGT they may benefit from this thread.

We sent my dual mag to the specialty shop for 500 hour service and I assisted in installation. We set exactly at 25 degrees BTDC and she runs great, but I noticed some differences in the engine monitor. Prior to the mag service the EGT used to peak about 1,510 but now peaks about 1,460. Last night on takeoff my balls-to-the-wall EGT's which used to be about 1,250 on takeoff are closer to 1,200 and at 8,500 while about 10-15 LOP the CHT's are about 10-15 degrees higher too even at my normal setting at that altitude. I did a 50 degree LOP mag check and you can detect some minor roughness when on one mag only, but on both its still smooth. I'm trying to wrap my head around why I'm seeing these changes. If the CHT's are slightly higher that means I'm producing more power, and if the peak EGT's are lower then more combustion is taking place in the cylinders and less residual combustion in the exhaust. The magneto had about 500 hours on it and it was set at 25 deg BTDC when it was installed about 5 years ago. I remember the EGT's at that time peaking about 1,475 but has crept up to about 1,510 so it sounds like the timing has become progressively less retarded as time went on. Now I'm gonna have to do an unscheduled beach trip next week and figure out my new sea level takeoff EGT for my new target....

I don't know what you guys are seeing on your screen, but I see an original post from December 2008 and the first reply by @Jim Peace 15 hours ago. That's gotta be some kinda record.

@nels after you have the setup you will use the oxygen more than you think, not just this trip. Spend what you think is right, but going into the mountains I would want oxygen. Like @larryb I fly as high as practical and usually over 10,000 feet on numerous trips per year. We found we feel soooo much better at the destination, and I have used it to go to 15,000 on occasion as well.

Shortly after I bought mine there was an engine leak. I asked the mechanic on the field to take a look and he went straight for the oil filler door and shook the magneto, which was about to fall off. That was 2007 and the plane had the PPI done at a Mooney Service Center just prior to me picking her up. I think it was right around that time the SB came out for the magneto clamps and hardware. When I first started coming to Mooneyspace there was the occasional thread about the oil leak and loose magneto. I have not seen any new threads on that in a long time.

I used mineral spirits and avoided everything in back of the engine so that the vacuum pump and mag get no treatment. Also cover and avoid the alternator and starter.

If I had the time and opportunity to do this, I would do everything I had to do to make it a reality. The memories will be worth much more than the cost of the trip. You have plenty of time to plan. Let us know how it goes.

While I had my interior and seats out this past week I took the opportunity to clean the holes int the seat rail with a screwdriver and shop vac. Although I have never had a problem as you described, I did remove a significant amount of dirt and debris and it was packed in there...40 yeas worth.

I have a friend with a Bo who was telling me earlier this evening he had the same issue. He described battery discharge on takeoff and high power, but none on the ground. After much grief he tracked it down to one of the alternator wires arcing to ground and discharging the battery in flight at high power only. Good luck with your search and hope it is easier than my friend. 40 year old airplanes have 40 year old rotten wires.

Very nice ! I really like the carbon fiber, especially the yoke

So if you have a smart radio which will give you the next frequency how would this work? I have the Avidyne 440 and when I bring up the frequency entry page it automatically brings up the next expected frequency. In other words if the next frequency is 120.55 and you put the cursor on that option and you are in 8.33 spacing mode, will it tune to 120.55 or the 8.33 equivalent, and would it matter.

I have been working on radios, antennas, running new RG 400 and found radio noise was relieved when I did an in-flight mag check. The mag was sent out so I decided to use the power of Mooneyspace and fix my roof vent with the blessing of my IA. There are several threads recently about this so I researched and used all of the collective wisdom. I do have a couple of things to add, and some pictures too. Although I learned from many threads regarding the vent problems and repairs, I found these two threads most helpful with a link to original step by step content from @rogrbal and subsequently updated by @carolinaflying in the link below. https://mooneyspace.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=50929 I ordered the spring steel wire from McMaster-Carr and it was easy to find on their website and cheap too. Removal of the front and middle sections of the air plenum required drilling some rivets, and getting the control mechanism out was not fun, but I did not remove the rear section. Overall not complicated at all, just time consuming and a perfect project for a motivated owner/IA combo. The old wire was bent at the control arm and there was obviously a previous attempt to repair, but with less than optimal results. The wire loop at the post on the control arm was not a tight spiral, and the cable was not aligned properly setting it up for failure. After removal of the old wire I stuck the little nozzle tube for the Tri-Flow into the end of the cable housing and just sprayed intermittently until it came out the other end and let it soak in well. The key for me was making the loop that attaches to the control arm post SMALLER in diameter than the post itself. I used a 10d nail driven into the workbench all but about 3/8 inch. Use Vice Grips to wind around the 10d nail and keep pulling hard and it made a perfect spiral around the nail. Don't cut off the excess because it is used to "un-spring" it just enough to fit tightly around the post, then trim the excess. The cable housing was originally on the opposite side of the set screw as shown in the pics and I think it was out of alignment when in the vent open position and caused the wire to be prone to failure. I adjusted it several times for best result both open and closed, but it is never gonna be perfect. JB Weld came in handy to attach a washer on top of the post and I have my doubts as to whether it will stay, but the spiral is very tight on the post and I don't think it will come off. After attaching to the control arm then run the new wire from the inside and out the overhead vent. Had to use a small piece of the wire to make a little hook and pull the cable housing up where it is supposed to be because it slipped down out of alignment. I made the loop for the vent door wrapped around a very small screwdriver, but it does not have to be perfect like the control end. The attachment on the vent door is ferrous metal and riveted to the aluminum door and had rusted so I cleaned as best I could and put some zinc chromate on it, followed by some white rattle can paint as seen in the photo with the tape measure. As you can see in the pics below the door opens a full two inches. I'll be wearing a mask for the test flight, because I pulled out some of the 40 year old hog hair and damn it was nasty but again I didn't remove the rear section of plenum so I'm sure it is full of dirt and dust. I don't know how many feet were in that 1/4 pound of wire, but I got it right first try and have the rest left over.

Mixture full rich, then boost pump, then cutoff. I do 3-5 seconds boost in summer and 5-7 seconds in winter. Don't touch the throttle. Main thing for the cold start is after boost pump and going to idle cutoff then wait about 15 seconds in summer and 30 seconds or more in winter. This gives fuel time to vaporize and it starts right away.

Ahhh so it is a 90 deg valve stem with the angle behind the metal, but the part you see is sticking straight out.

That does not compute

Sounds like Jon touched a lot of people and will be missed very much.

Mine have always been straight valve stems on all wheels. I would think a 90 deg valve may take two hands to hold the stem and apply the gauge or air source, and with straight valve stem you can easily do with one hand. I would prefer a straight stem for that reason, but not a big deal.