jetdriven

Ok sorry I thought you broke the news. Hopefully it’s not true. I called the number today and it was very hard to understand the answering machine, but it sounded like they were not taking new magneto business. There is a phone number and a name on the machine saying who to call, but I do not know anything about that person or shop.

A T38 can climb to 30,000 feet in less than two minutes and it is supersonic. It has a roll rate of 720° Per second. Yet it it not a FAA defined complex aircraft, nor high performance, and it is a centerline thrust multi rating, you can’t fly a Piper Apache.

FB Mooney pilots group. I think @KSMooniac mentioned that. Hope it’s not true. But that’s the latest I heard. byron

I hear he closed shop. Who does Maxwell use these days?

THIS. a Facebook Mooney group pilot had his dual mag fall off the engine over the Rockies. Luckily there was a field to land on.

If it’s C&c bright solutions or Nigel Edwards, he has had so many complaints about either showing up or the quality of the job. He uses cheap CMX ceramic Spray. Great for a DIY But not for a professional job. If he shows up after you pay.

You’re not addressing the points I made above.

The PA32 can come apart if overstressed. The wing is similar to the PA28, they are bolted to the carry-through. Theres a reason they have zero-fuel weights. To keep the cabin loading and thus wing stresses lower. They perform fine in the envelope, but get into a thunderstorm or lose control of the plane at high speed, they can and do break.

Factory install is a flush rivet. those are cleaner looking but much harder to remove. Im not sure how well a universal head rivet is held into a dimpled hole. But anyways, im pretty sure you will wreck the retainer strip removing flush Cherrymax rivets.

Were they universal head or flush? Ive never been able to remove more than two or three flush head Cherrymax rivets without it turning to crap. The drill walks off the steel stem and you end up destroying the top piece of metal to get the rivet removed. Universal head are easy, grind the head off

Water causes corrosion, warmer air holds more water. And yes, higher temperatures accelerate the rate of corrosion. It doesn't "cause" it per se. A dry engine wont corrode as much or at all, depending on the water vapor amount inside it. Heating an engine to drive the Rh down prevents precipitation inside the engine, but it also increases the grams of water per cubic volume, in an absolute sense. . More water vapor, more temperature. Worse, not better.

Yes it can be removed. Drill carefully with a #30 drill. But inspect it first. If it’s been replaced before and it is installed with cherrymax rivets you are going to have to destroy it to remove it.

I can’t afford a heated hanger, a regular pole barn hangar around here is 500 bucks a month. Like I said I have a dehydrator to take care of the water, so the only concern with the heater is for to prevent cold starts. However using engine heater thinking that that’s going to keep water from condensing in your engine, is true. However warmer air holds more grains of water per cubic meter then colder air, so now you have more water vapor suspended in air and it causes corrosion. There is a reason humidity cabinets they test corrosion in are not cold. It does not have to precipitate inside your engine to corrode it. Go look at the tools in your toolbox, usually they have rust all over them. I have snap on tools with rust on them in my toolbox. That correlates pretty directly with litters we remove that have worm trails and corrosion putting on them. A friend of mine bought a M20J that was stored in a hanger and had 4 hundred hours since major about six years previous. The owner left the engine heater on all winter long and Minnesota. He ran it about 300 hours and several lifters were trashed along with the cam and the rest of the engine. Yes he flew it quite regular about 200 hours a year. Use a real dryer to keep your engine dry. Use a real heater to heat your engine.

Preheat, and engine drying are two separate issues. For the first, I bought a black max engine dehydrator. Keeps it dry. That’s the end of that. And for preheating, a Tanis on a remote cell switch. So instead of combining the work with one device, use two. After you stroke a check for over 30k for a new engine, you start thinking of ways to prevent that from happening again. Keep it dry inside. And warm it up before you crank it. The grand you spend on that you’ll get it back

Yes, warm air can hold more moisture. And metal Won’t corrode below 32°. So it doesn’t have to be raining inside your engine to cause corrosion. However if you just leave it cold it won’t corrode. Cold air is drier than warm air. And when you get ready to fly turn on your Kasa remote plug with a hotspot like one of the previous posters. Brilliant idea and cheap.

Actually there’s been a lot of discussion about leaving engine preheater is on in the winter, serious corrosion issues. Just turn it on a few hours before you plan on flying, if you don’t then turn it back off. A cold engine below 32F cannot corrode

You don’t set aside money for a 5000hr TBO engine like you do a piston. Usually you just devalue the selling price to reflect that. Saving up for hot section inspections probably isn’t a a bad idea.

Icing?

I think the easiest way to keep the inside of your plane dry, is toMake a small plexiglas plate that fits nicely into the storm window hole. Then you can latch in place. Attach that to a dryer hose which goes to a 30 quart dehumidifier that has a drain. Set a dehumidifier on top of the bucket or something and then have the drain run to the hanger door and out the front. Keep an engine internal dry is easier. I run a black max engine dehumidifier. Previously I used a Tanis engine dehydrator with beads. It lasts 2-3 weeks before recharging. Has a heater built in. I’m not using this thing now for so it’s for sale

A friend of mine used gasoline to clean his belly. Somehow the creeper either sparked at The wheels or created static, either way it lit up and burned him and the airplane seriously. do not use gasoline to clean

Until they fly a Beechcraft. A Mooney flies like a F250 diesel with worn tie rods compared to, say, a V35B. Truly a fingertip airplane.

Jacks certainly are required. You still have to inspect/service the wheel bearings and brakes. lightning is perhaps a distant 4th or 5th in the list of hazards of thunderstorms. The Cirrus has a certified system of mesh to conduct lightning. Not a concern.

Alternators put out 60Aor 70A but they are not rated for continuous duty at that rating. Ask Hartzell or Plane Power if they are. They are designed to Replenish the battery from the starting draw and to supply inflight loads.. a dead battery will overheat and burn the rectifier diode pack. I just changed one last annual on my Plane Power alternator. The battery had a weak cell and it failed the capacity test. The diode was burned in the rectifier bridge.

Either way I wouldn’t attempt it. The alternator will destroy itself trying to charge a dead battery. Then you have to replace that too.

Agree. The V tail bonanza cargo is bigger than a M20J but the A36 is huge in comparison