jetdriven

I think the factory calls it 24 hours flat rate but I can’t do it in less than 30. But I use the whole checklist to. I’ve read a lot of log entries and very rarely do they say accomplished the Mooney hour/annual inspection checklist, they say they referenced the checklist and used FAR part 43(d) which are not the same things.

And all over the whole country you can make an M20J sustain level flight at about 15 inches of manifold pressure. You’re not getting anywhere very fast, but you’re still flying. Here’s a quote from the POH at 12,000 feet there’s still 5 inches available there. Now just depends on the exact model airplane you have whether it’s turbo charged and where you live but for a large part of the country it’s doable.

You have to pull the throttle back the same number of inches a vacuum you need which is about 4.5” I don’t see how somebody’s Mooney cannot stay aloft at 4000 feet running 22 inches of manifold pressure that’s still almost 60% power.

I’ve done a bunch of this stuff and usually the paint touchup looks worse than just leaving it like that. First you got a prep the metal well enough that it’ll stick then you have to feather the edges then you need to prekote it and then prime it and then paint it and you have to match the color accurately. and then you have to mask off the entire airplane and the only paint sections but then those sections will look nicer the rest of the airplane then you need to buff the entire airplane to match and if by the time you get done you’re gonna spend four days and it’s gonna look one percent better than it does now trust me on this it isn’t worth it.

It wasn’t prepared properly to begin with

It’s this. Don’t forget the an900 gasket that goes under it which is in the Lycoming IPC https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/rochoiltemp.php?clickkey=14962

If you really going to fly in the clouds you really want a back up electric attitude indicator and you want a vacuum gauge and preferably a low vacuum light as well. Because as you can tell, vacuum failures are insidious

I’m curious who did your pre-buy when you bought that plane

Actually, simple green for Aircraft destroys the paint. I know this because we used to wash with it regularly and soon after the paint began to chip and flake and peel off because it was basically dried out, looking at the situation carefully, it takes the plasticizers out of the paint and it basically destroys it. I should’ve gotten the message whenever I was washing the belly and the stuff ran down to my armpit and caused a infuriatingly painful red rash there.

The active ingredient in Gojo and goop is deodorized kerosene

PTI-2001 degreaser. It splits the grease and its safe for ariplanes. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/pti09-04184-8.php?clickkey=575135

Most of your approach controllers have the single sweep radar, its real time. As the radar dish rotates it sends it right to the scope. When they say the gap is 6 miles, wide, its exactly that. So you can rely on that information. Center has basically the same thing you see on Foreflight. Give it more margin. Stay visual around this stuff and bail out at once when you cant.

That is a good Midwest strategy, stay below the bases and avoid the rain shafts. Now we have storm scopes and ADSB radar, that helps you go between them better. Usually the wind is at your back when you’re approaching the line from the west, so You want to see if you have a left or right cross land and then pass on the downwind side of the gap a little bit to give your self some room

So it’s only 5kt faster but half the seats.

Yet there are several stories right here where that has happened to Mooney pilots.

The GPS antennas are here. The COM 1 is right before the dorsal fin.

Yes, it’s not a big deal, until you grab the wrong lever and put the gear up on the runway. I’m not saying it certainly happens but it sure happens a lot during touch and goes. There’s a reason why airlines have pretty universal acceptance that you don’t start moving switches until you’re clear of the runway. At beauty it’s division of attention during a critical phase of flight, and flying the airplane is more important than moving stuff.

The Alclad still looks shiny but it does have a very thin layer that you can’t see of corrosion that protects it. I’m not sure of the exact interaction but I would just follow the prekote directions which says to scrub into a lather with a scotchbrote, rinse, dry. then apply primer. Obviously you want to take sandpaper and feather the edge of any chipped paint around the area so that it blends well. Just go easy on the Alclad. It’s very thin.

No, you want to preserve as much of the Alclad as possible because the underlying 2024 is very reactive. There’s a certain shop in Arkansas that scuff sounds all the airplanes to get the paint to stick better but what they’re doing is removing the Alclad and after about five years filiform corrosion covers the entire airplane. So prekote is an environmentally friendly substance that passivates surface, so you basically use the scotch brite to knock the surface protective corrosion layer off of it and the prekote is a non-reactive layer then you put primer over that.

Prekote works just as well just scrub it on with a red scotch Brite, and then you rinse it off with water and then dry it and then you paint primer over that

I own a shop at Gaithersburg which is the next town over, give me a call 484-435 97 76

Listen to generators running all night. Dogs barking. 4 wheelers and motorized vehicles. Na. Give me the N40 and a cold Spotted Cow

Leave the camper take the F model.

Don’s been retired for a good bit but he can never sit still !