jetdriven

Tempest has approval now you can use a 48108 filter in place of the 48109. They are now interchangeable.

Mike's plane is in my shop right now for its second annual here. He and I had the same experience when we both put factory engines on our planes 7 years ago, and putting Bendix mags on it and turning it up made a big difference.

There is some speculation that the roller cam engine made more power than rated, so they effectively de-rated the engine by changing the cam profile or advancing the camshaft. But a roller cam engine running at 20° is quite noticeably slower than a A3B6D engine running at 25 degrees. Actually, around 23-24° is the best timing for these roller engines.

I agree, it's magical thinking to think that 20° of timing makes the same power as 25. When we bought our plane we noted it was a complete dog on takeoff and climb and cruise, but we figured there was probably some optimization or it was a tired engine. Come to find out the dual magneto at 20° which is not even allowed, putting it back where it was supposed to be made us 5 kn in cruise and it would actually run lean of peak whereas before the speed would fall off right proportionally with fuel flow. for your hot running engine, fix the cooling deficiency, instead of covering it up with the Band-Aid by derating your engine

i dont think aerodynamics works that way in this instance. The prop is still pulling the airplane forward. At 2000 RPM, all else equal, its less HP at the crank which aids descent.

If it were me I would eat the 20k and labor. You may be able to disassemble it and swap the bearings, hone it and put new rings and put it back together yourself for a lot less than that. You gotta pay the engine shop and the labor to r/r it, but it’s probably better than getting cancelled for mx shop insurance. There’s only two people writing shop policies, and one of them doesn’t understand the type of work shops do, and they cost more also. and I’d get the plane into a different LLC today. If someone has a claim against your shop, your 250k plane is at risk for anything above policy limits.

It looked like fluctuating oil pressure for ten minutes. Then a five minute flight where the oil pressure did go to zero. Then it threw a rod. It trended down to zero at some point cut it wasn’t likely at zero the entire 5-minute flight. We don’t know exactly when the damage was done, either.

I’m just some guy on the Internet. You can have the mechanic who puts his airplane back together to call Lycoming and get their take on the subject, then analyze the data that it ran for two minutes without oil pressure, and then ask him to return it to service and all of the liability that incurs as well. It’s like a prop strike, it’s probably OK but you really don’t know.

Lycoming can explain it better than I can but any engine ran under 55 psi of oil they say the hydrodynamic wedge oil protection film is lost and the only way to verify it is to tear it down. https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/Action to Take If Loss of Oil Pressure.pdf

You’re gonna have to tear it down. I’d ask the oil filter mfr to pay the bill.

I have a client with a 700 hours since new ovation engine and all. He changed his own oil but he didn’t know what was the best, he used Phillips victory oil. And that killed the starter adapter literally the next flight.

I'd definately SDR that. Theres a lot of parts substitution for inferior goods going on, that could be a non-conforming o-ring that swells when it hits oil.

the forward wing is so they could move the main spar carry through (and the wing itself) behind the occupied section of the cabin.

The valve wizard is the best thing I’ve ever seen for angle valve engines. Check that out

they quit shipping dual magneto engines at least before 2014, because we ordered an engine at that point and the two separate mag engine was about 4 grand more, we really thought it over and we decided to go ahead and order the -D engine. And then they said well sorry we don't build that engine anymore so here's a 2-slick mag engine for the same price.

Poplar Grove is one and there’s another shop called Columbia over in Pennsylvania that has a good reputation. I sent my last engine to Triad and ended up costing 4 grand over… due to “corrosion in cylinders requiring honing”. I’ve never seen honing cost a grand a hole. We ask for a new Lycoming cam and new DLC lifters, now these things retail for $110 apiece at aircraft spruce. But their price was $2400 for the set of hardware. I do not feel that’s even remotely fair, especially since he’s the Lycoming distributor and gets the parts at wholesale distributor pricing. Then, the oil drain is leaking, but upon further discovery, the pipe nipple that threads into the oil sump is on the wrong side of the engine and it’s too close to the exhaust. When I went to go unthread it, it appears that it was installed cross threaded and it stripped out the threads in the sump and it would not come out. So I ate four hours of labor And $125 for a Helicoil NPT kit, on behalf of the customer for this. I’m not using them again.

I think the on Lycoming valve cover screws, the lock washer is integral to the screw.

Continental has you torque the silicone valve cover gaskets to a lower number, and have you put blue Loctite on the screws when you install them. The last time I torqued a Lycoming valve cover with a torque wrench, three of them fell out off of one valve cover in the span of an hour flight.

Yes, you have to load shed the main bus down to 30 A or so to get the standby alternator to carry all of the load. In modern aircraft with LED lighting and electronics, that’s not too hard to do.

I have a client who put victory XC 20W50 oil in his ovation and it killed the starter adapter literally a couple starts later. It’s a couple thousand bucks to get one of these things done and you may be waiting a while as well, so keep that Triphenyl phosphate crap out of your engine

it is worth the parts value.

I’m not sure how to make PFM springs via owner-produced. You’d need the complete specs. . And then make something the same.

I can’t see how DLC lifters trash a new cam unless the cam really wasn’t new. In fact the cam usually lasts longer than lifters do even after they’ve been Spalled or torn up. Something doesn’t add up here.

Sounds like my client who had his engine put together by these guys. It’s leaking oil from a blind bolt hole and they basically told him to stuff it.