jetdriven

The GPS antennas are here. The COM 1 is right before the dorsal fin.

Yes, it’s not a big deal, until you grab the wrong lever and put the gear up on the runway. I’m not saying it certainly happens but it sure happens a lot during touch and goes. There’s a reason why airlines have pretty universal acceptance that you don’t start moving switches until you’re clear of the runway. At beauty it’s division of attention during a critical phase of flight, and flying the airplane is more important than moving stuff.

The Alclad still looks shiny but it does have a very thin layer that you can’t see of corrosion that protects it. I’m not sure of the exact interaction but I would just follow the prekote directions which says to scrub into a lather with a scotchbrote, rinse, dry. then apply primer. Obviously you want to take sandpaper and feather the edge of any chipped paint around the area so that it blends well. Just go easy on the Alclad. It’s very thin.

No, you want to preserve as much of the Alclad as possible because the underlying 2024 is very reactive. There’s a certain shop in Arkansas that scuff sounds all the airplanes to get the paint to stick better but what they’re doing is removing the Alclad and after about five years filiform corrosion covers the entire airplane. So prekote is an environmentally friendly substance that passivates surface, so you basically use the scotch brite to knock the surface protective corrosion layer off of it and the prekote is a non-reactive layer then you put primer over that.

Prekote works just as well just scrub it on with a red scotch Brite, and then you rinse it off with water and then dry it and then you paint primer over that

I own a shop at Gaithersburg which is the next town over, give me a call 484-435 97 76

Listen to generators running all night. Dogs barking. 4 wheelers and motorized vehicles. Na. Give me the N40 and a cold Spotted Cow

Leave the camper take the F model.

Don’s been retired for a good bit but he can never sit still !

You going? Your plane’s daddy is going and I’m flying it

We do balance propellers here but I so far have not had an Eddy current prop, there is some guy who comes by and I could probably get his information but I haven’t had to use anybody

I see you did what I did. Beefed up the flange on the dorsal fin then countersunk it with flush rivets

You can modify a Home Depot caulking gun by sanding down the diameter of the disk that fits inside the tube, and then you tape the PR 1422 SEM kit cartridge to the caulk gun and then give it hell.

aeroshell 31 gallons are in stock at spruce. buy those

we just went through this with a J and bought a UMA, cause the factory gauge wasnt repairable. But its not TSO, but its not required. Yours is. Keystone instruments in Lock Haven has a 2.25" 10-50" MP gauge theyll sell you. i passed.

This is the rectifier for an AL12P70 plane power alternator. Easy to swap. https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/100mm-alternator-rectifier-denso-60-80-amp-8mm-post-inr720xhd.html

It’s part of the diode rectifier bridge. It’s a 35$ part. It’s replaceable.

they're a call and order type place. But they're a lot cheaper than, for example, PHT in Tulsa.

thats administrative law.

124J hoses from aircraft hose shop granite city IL.

It’s not good data unless you do the NTPS 3 track method…that’s pretty accurate. For example, you compute true airspeed off of CAS, the CAS is about 2 mph less at altitude in the normal speed range. And that assumes that the airspeed indicator is accurate, then you got to correct it for temperature and everything else. So I’m not saying you’re full of it, I’m just saying that you need to measure it more precisely and if you’re ASI isn’t calibrated, it’s going to be garbage and garbage out. I just had a Pitot static transponder checked, and the guy noticed that my G5 is reading 2 mph low while they analog airspeed indicator is exactly right. Which is kind of funny because I bought the G5 to have it more precise reading, and it’s the one that’s off.

2021 was an interesting year. There were plenty of revenge racers ready to see through the red mist and thrash their planes for glory, us included. Plenty of fast glass, and big motor production machines with some shiny paint. A couplemof rel fast looking Beechcraft. Our speed was 188 MPH, which was about 7 MPH off what it really does, this year it was a closed course which had nasty headwinds on the first leg, a direct crosswind on the second leg, and a headwind on the third leg! But we overhauled every production piston airplane except a 500 Twin Commander. The previous race, we were not in, and someone stole our race number. He was friends with our pre-race dinner table mates, and when he found out we were there, said he had alternator trouble and couldnt make it. When I offered to install his new alternator for free and race him for the number, he declined. Friendly race and all. But he never showed, I wish we would have run them in 2019, we could have kept the number and taken the other 3 Mooneys in the class by 13-15 MPH. Maybe next year. http://www.airventurecuprace.com/2021-race-results/ http://www.airventurecuprace.com/2019-race-results/

It’s easy you just set the prop low pitch stops to a higher value, they take a larger bite out of the air. It’s like overdrive for airplanes. Also, climb to 300 feet above your final altitude and then you descend into it it puts the airplane on the step cruises faster that way too

What does it show on takeoff? It’s usually 105% or 110%. JPR doesn’t tell you what all it looks at or how it arrives at that value. Here’s the thing though the throttle is always firewalled and the prop is always at 2500 RPM so the percentage of power is always Max available anyway