jetdriven

yep, 2500 SNEW, 500 since iran. This prop is 23 years old.

Spot on. The more the look the more they find, or dont miss.

The 252 is what you get whenever you fix all the things bad about the 231. I srrsly dont know how the original version ever escaped the factory, and there were actually better versions of that powerplant flying around when it was originally released. But the 252 they got it right.

wrap the prop leading and trailing edges with that gray pipe insulation then wraop the whole thing with lots of bubble wrap. then strap it down

How did you measure the 165kt in both directions?

C&J overhauls Weldon pumps and I would do anything I could to reinstall a Weldon.

Along with their screaming passengers

the Whelen Data shows the G3 is about 3x brighter than an original parmetheus. Parmetheus Pro PAR46 240K Parmetheus G3 155K candlepower parmetheus plus 109,000 cp but they advertise its 80% more than the original parmetheus. so the original parmetheus is 60-70K? FYI the 50W HID is something like 750K, but a 2 degree beam. but still, bright

I havent flown one yet, but Ive installed a few, and looking at them has finally reached the painful "HID bright" stage. Gallagher aviation has a photo and it lights up the whole first 600 feet it looks like.

these new G3 Whelen lamps are seriously bright.

Your first post says it all, the broker bought it after sitting several years and then brought it home to sell. Ask him if that annual comes with a warranty because I get these planes all the time in the shop that end up with a $10,000 annual when it comes around because so much stuff was not done right and the plane is in awful shape. And that's before we talk about spar or cafe corrosion. The broker won't look too hard for that and if they found it, wouldnt disclose it. This site is full of those deals.

The RG35AXC has 29Ah of capacity. The earthX is half that.

I placed an order with aircraft spruce and they sent me an email back after a week that said 110 day lead time, perhaps much longer, and I got to pay for it now. Yingling can get them from stock from textron, they have 10 in stock today, but they are $1680

Yeah, to seal the perimeter of windshields for nonpressurized Aircraft we use the equivalent which is CS 3247 it's about a third of the price

We use a capacity tester. It puts a load on it and you time it.

PR1425B2 dries a glossy black. It's what Beechcraft uses for their windows. Cheyennes also use it.

I think now the wrapper says do not squeeze the oil, just install.

F models had the slide gate feature like the early 201s which basically didnt seal off. They leaked hot air. The 1979 and later style with a flapper valve work great when you add a thin sheet of silicone rubber On the flapper to seal against the tube.

We've had a few planes marked as compliant, and we opened up the wings to seal a couple of minor leaks, and they were sealants smeared with what looks like gloves and fingers by the pint everywhere. And I showed the owner rhis And I say this can get you killed. you can pump a gallon of water in the airplane and it won't reach the sump but After takeoff it will. Hopefully you opened up the tanks and inspected the drain holes, because an AD compliant airplane could not trap more than a few oz of water.

That EarthX 12V battery only has 15AH of capacity, about half that of the standard lead-acid unit.

If its 20:1 it didnt come off the m20J.

If shaking the wings frees up more than a trivial amount of water, I would wager the drainback holes in the ribs are plugged with sealant, and the aircraft does not conform to AD 85-24-03.

Ive read dozens of stories on here of pilots who had a bullshit prebuy and had to spend a ton of money, and in some cases, scrapped out their airplane. Ive yet to read a story of a seller's plane being stranded in pieces or damaged during the buyer's prebuy.

Then don't release the deposit until the aircraft is back in your possession and you've had time to inspect it

"you take a risk that it didn't get put back together properly or something got broken in the process." Take a big enough deposit to mitigate that. And call the buyer's shop and get a feel for if he knows wtf he is talking about. Google reviews help too, here. Get a copy of his COI, read that too. "you get to find out whether it's still in one piece or not." take a deposit big enough to pay for putting it back together, too. It should also say that in the sales contract as well. "the next independent" mechanic finds some disaster left by the previous one and then it just kind of snowballs." Umm that would be your mechanic who left this disaster. It was your problem regardless if it was for sale or not. Perhaps the buyer shouldn't look too hard, and then pay to fix that at the first annual?