N601RX

There have been many companies open up with the promise of a great auto conversion. Most all of these have long since went out of business, many taking customers deposits with them. One of these was mentioned several post above. Both Wynn Corvairs and Great Planes VW stayed with it and worked through the problems. They both have a very good rep. They offer a low cost alternative engine that many people are flying with. http://www.greatplainsas.com/whydiff.html http://www.flycorvair.com/products.html

Rotax fits a certain segment on the market very well. It produces the same horsepower as the O-200 and has an installed weight of about 100 lbs less than an 0-200. With a plane that has a usefull load of around 500 lbs that is huge. Its also has a smaller footprint and fits the lines of the small planes better. It gets its power from high compression pistons and higher rpm. Jabiru also makes a nice engine. The other popular options for these small experimentals is the William Wynn Covair Conversion and Great Planes VW conversion. Both have been around for a long time and have the bugs worked out.

Here is the best online price I've found on Phillips XC. Unfortunately unless your in that area for other reasons and can pick it up in person its usually cheaper to just get it from the local distributor. We have a local oil distributor that several people asked to stock XC and I usually get it from them. I've found they are cheaper than the online stores after shipping is added. http://www.airplaneoil.com/Philips_Aviation_Oil_s/29.htm

I've flew about 200hrs behind a Rotax 2 stroke and never had a single problem with it. It was one of the later model water cooled ones. There were some Rotax specific things that you need to keep a check on, like any engine. The air cooled ones had more problems.

On my 67f it's mounted to an aluminum frame that is attached to the aluminum skin.

I've noticed insurance companies always want to know if it is Hangered or not when providing a quote. I'm not sure how much price difference there is. A hanger also gives you many more options as to who you use for your AP/IA and how the work is done. At $65 month my hanger has saved me a lot of money, but at $500 I would have to rethink that.

These are simple to install. The hoses are color coded, ( red hose to valve port with red dot). There are 2 color coded wires to the valve plus power and ground. Then there are 2 wires(left and right) that connects to the CDI. I sent my parts to Brittain they went thought them and rebuilt them for under $400. They returned them with all the paper work and install instructions. My IA and I did the install. We also installed their Accuflite and altitude hold at the same time.

When most people think light sport they think of the factory built models, but they are also many experimental that qualify as a light sport. Some of the companies are selling both kits and finished planes. They have a very active builder base. So while the factory built models may be overpriced and not many selling, the kit segment of this industry is doing quite well. Many of these can be built for around 30K if you build on a budget.

The RPM the governor will cycle at is strange. I've heard several say they have to be around 1900 and other will cycle much lower. Mine will cycle at 1200, it is a H1 governor. One thing the original poster mentioned was that his oil pressure was only at 68 lbs in flight which is lower than most unless the oil temp is really hot. You might want to talk to your mech about adjusting it up to around 90.

There was a defense contractor who used to sell it on ebay the week it expires for $20 for 5 tubes. It's been kept refrigerated and had full traceability from the day they recieved it. I keep some on hand for boat projects ect. I've used some on boats an other things that was 3 years old and couldn't tell the difference. Vans RV also keeps it in stock at a reasonable price.

There are companies online that will do it. We have a couple of 3D printers at work, but no scanner. Someone on here might have access to one. http://store.makerbot.com/digitizer?gclid=COnz8YSoub0CFSdn7Aod1WsAQw

Mooney might share the top level model with all the internals left out if they knew what it was for, assuming they have a 3D model. Another option would be send one of the wood models somewhere and have it scanned.

If you have ever had a fuel leak on the tanks, especially around the inside sender unit the fuel will make the tape come loose. I found some 5" wide aluminum tape with fiber reinforcement from Mcmaster. I used 3m caulk strip on the small places I couldn't get tape. The bad part is cleaning all the old stuff . Also check the boots around the rudder pedals and main gear retract arms.

Remove the inside interior side panels and rear seat cushions. There are some gaps along the bottom that are 2" wide in spots. The factory sealed them with tape and caulk strip. The tape will eventually come loose.

Its probably due to the with the high voltage/high freq power supply the HID's use. I've been happy with the Welden LED.

I'm guessing both will be rolling out some new features next week at Sun-In-Fun.

My IA/CFII manages and flies a King Air 90 for a local company. Unlike us, all inspections are on calendar time or hrs. Most are on calendar time regardless of hrs. The props, landing gear, gear transmission, flap actuation ect has to be overhauled or replaced based on calendar time. Last year they spent over 60k on inspections, overhauling props and other things that were low hrs and working fine but the calendar time was up. The insurance company also requires him to go to recurrent training either once or twice a year. The sad part is the plane only gets used 15-20 hrs a year, but the owner likes being able to jump in with his friends and go wherever he wants.

I talked to Aeroleds in December before buying the Whelen and Aeroleds still does not have PMA approval on the Par 46 bulb. The 36 bulb is approved.

4 Amps is the max current it provides to the field of the alternator. 4 amps to the field is enough to get a full output on most alternators.

There are usually a few elevators on Ebay for a few hundred $. The leading edge dents can probably be worked out to the point their acceptable. The Left wingtip has a little material missing, but a small doubler skin can probably be shaped and riveted behind it to fill in the hole and smoothed over to look reasonable. The other option of replacing the 2 wing skins and repaint is going to be expensive.

Mine was leaking around the drain when I got it and removing the bowl and cleaning the seat area fixed it.

Dents can also be removed with a round steel ball and a very strong magnet. The ball is placed inside the wing and the magnet is slid back and fourth on the outside. The ball has an extremely small contact area with the surface and will remove a little of the dent each time it rolls over it. Because the contact area is small, it doesn't take a lot of force.

If I remember correctly depending on how they were equip they fell under part 103 as a ultralight, which does not require a license. They had some kind of discount on the final part of the kit if you would show them were you had 10 hrs of dual.

I had looked at one of these a few years ago. They are available with Turbine or Piston. I watched them fly at Sun-In-Fun a couple of years ago. The factory pilot demoed that he could control the directional movement by just shifting his weight around. He was also doing some demo autorotations. He would kill power at about 10ft, land then lift off rotate 90 deg and land again with motor still off. http://www.innovator.mosquito.net.nz/mbbs2/index.asp

How about from the front side? On my F each individual gauge can be slid out the rack from the front side. The rack has sockets in the back that he gauges plug into. I'm not sure if the later models are like this or not.