N601RX

I've purchased a few large items from Sarasota to install myself before. They have good prices and stand behind their stuff. Recently I purchased an engine monitor and they had told me that all the sensors were included. It later turned out that one of the sensors was not included and was an extra $300. They stood behind what they had told me and included the sensor anyway at no additional cost.

These are wire wound resistors with a wiper on them. I believe I've saw some videos on youtube of people repairing them. There are also a few repair stations here in the US that can fix them.

Chris, Sorry no pictures yet, its still a work in progress. Hopefully I will be finished in another week or so. Matt, Sorry but my oil pressure gauge is a mechanical gauge with the oil line ran to the back of it.

These were recently removed for a new engine monitor in my plane. If anyone needs more info about a particular one let me know and I'll get it for you. Removed from 67F. If anyone needs one or just wants a spare let me know. Newer fuel level gauge. This is a slide in replacement sigma tech gauge for the original garwin gauge. It reads correctly at empty, 1/2 and full when hooked to a resistance decade box. $125. Oil pressure gauge. Reads correctly across its range when connected to certified master gauge $75 Manifold pressure gauge working fine when removed $125 Tach cable $30 Tach- matched jpi pretty closely at most speeds $100 Factory cht sensor $20 Factory oil temp sensor $20 Thanks Mike Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I relocated my oil cooler a couple of years ago. The kit comes with new hoses and you get rid of the long hoses that go down by the exhaust. It also saves a few pounds. Since your needing a new hoses anyway, now might be a good time to consider it.

Here is a picture from the other side. The gear was down, but then collapsed. I think he landed on the road and then clipped the power pole or something else close to the road and then went off the road. http://www.the-chesapeake.com/2014/05/19/delaware-plane-lands-roadway-near-georgetown/ If he did hit the wires midair, he is very lucky the plane set down level and didn't nose over. If it hit the wires in the air, it had to stop very quickly to end up where it did.

These use a display that is mounted in a fingered socket that eventually has connection problems and require occasional cleaning and reseating. Sometimes pressing gently on different areas of the display will get them back on. You can also try turning them off and back on immediately (very fast).

I upgraded to .250 windows when I replaced mine. We did not use a STC, we referenced the statement on GLAP's website in the logbooks. PRC will set quickly in hot weather, don't use b1/2. Use b2 or even b4, however it takes b4 several days to completely set. A good tape job will make cleanup go easy. I have a post with some pictures from where I did mine. Q3: Why are your thicker side windows not STC'd? A: Our regional FAA has determined where STC's are to be applied. Keep in mind that not requiring an STC keeps the paperwork down and a 337 form is not necessary. We have been told by our regional FAA office that STC's have been overused for minor changes, thicker side windows are considered to be a minor change by our regional FAA office (Chicago). Top of Page Q4: How are you able to Install vent windows in windows without an STC? A: Our regional FAA has determined where STC's are to be applied. Keep in mind that not requiring an STC keeps the paperwork down and a 337 form is not necessary. We have been told by our regional FAA office that STC's have been overused for minor changes. Installing vent windows are considered to be a minor change by our regional FAA office (Chicago). Top of Page

Yes and all the knife splices and old style wire (stiff and larger in diameter for same gauge wire) doesn't want to fit back up there. After I rewired everything up there with new wire it was much easier to get everything to go back in place than it previous was.

There are a couple of complete actuators on ebay right now. Lasar sells a seal kit, but it does not include new springs. Mcmaster has a huge selection of springs.

Our local high school is starting a aviation program in conjunction with the university where students can get their pilots license free while in high school. http://www.troymessenger.com/2014/05/08/flying-futures/

I purchased a new set with the 90 deg brass ends about 2 years ago. At the time they were cheap compared to others available, but have since been purchased by hartzell and the price has increased. Most mechanics have a boxful of old harnesses if you only need a single wire. The ones with the AR in the pn have the angled boots. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/aeroliteharness.php#review_tab

Liquid dish washing soap works well for smoothing PRC down. I assume it would work well with silicon also.

From your brief description of the problem it sounds like your radio may not be getting a signal. The problem may be antenna, coax, spliter or it could be the radio. I would see if anyone local has one and might let you slide your radio in their rack and see if the problem really is the radio.

I don't have any early pictures of mine, but have found enough traces of orange paint as well as pictures of other planes online with orange paint to imagine how it looked.

If I remember correctly JPI says 2-4", but to be sure they are all the same distance. They also mention that the closer they are the shorter life they will have.

No, I use Jules Moffit in Wetumpka, Al. When airplane work slowed down a few years ago he took up a hobby of restoring old cars. He had 4 or 5 in his hanger last time I was there. They are all in their Mid 80's and still go work every day. There are some nice P51's in the Troy hanger.

Paid $280 last year. That usually includes getting in one of the owners classics and going to lunch in style.

He is a picture with the one piece belly off looking up through the bottom at the rear side of the spar. I labeled the inspection cover under the rear seat for reference. Looking up, you need a mirror to inspect the bottom of the spar, where if looking down from the rear seat you need a mirror to inspect the top of the spar.

You didn't mention what kind of ignition you had or how many hrs was on the mags, but if the old starter is spinning it reasonably well your money might be better spent looking at the mags and shower of of sparks. Around $120 in parts for my shower of sparks fixed my hot starts. Ask your mechanic to set up a spark gap like the SOS overhaul manual calls for and make sure it is performing correctly. http://mooneyspace.com/topic/8019-hard-to-start/?hl=%2Bshower+%2Bsparks

The diode is across the coil. The diode is reverse biased in the circuit when the master switch is turned on so the diode is turned off and no current flows through it. Without the diode, When you turn the master switch off the field in the coil collapses and you get a large reverse voltage across the coil. The diode is now foward biased and the reverse voltage is shorted out throgh the diode and doesn't go back into other aircraft circuits. Without the diode it will eventually burn the contacts up in your master switch and possibly damage electronics in the plane. Newer avionics are protected from this, but some handheld stuff may not be.

I put a remote red/yellow light directly in front of me. On the 900 the primary limits are preset to match your POH and a not changeable by the owner. On the 830 you can set them to any value you wish.

I had around 60 hrs, all in a Cessna 150. I had read a lot about how important speed control was and was very conscious about it, so it was never really a problem. Be sure the CFII thoroughly covers botched landings very well and how to recover from them.

Yes, they both mount in a standard 3-1/8 round instrument hole. All dimensions are in the install manual on their website.

Lubing the threads on whatever mechanism you are using will make it much easier to turn. It takes quite a bit of force to compress the pucks, especially if you are putting a shim under the collar. On dry threads it is not unusual for well over 1/2 the torque to be used to overcome the friction present. Softer metals, Aluminum or galvanized threads will be even worse.