N601RX

I think mine are around 16 years old. I had a minor leak around some of the cork gaskets. It looked like they had been overtightened in the past. I went ahead and replaced all the gaskets so not to be bothered with it again. The gasket set cost me a little under $100.

50 Feet, but the Mooney is about 30 minutes away. http://mooneyspace.com/topic/9046-after-work-fun/

What kind of audio panel and intercom do you have? Do they still come on? Most of them have a failsafe circuit that will automatically connect them to the #1 radio if they fail. You might try turning the audio panel and intercom off and see if either radio will work. Also most intercoms and audio panels have a light that comes on when the mic is keyed, Is it coming on? If you have a separate intercom the mic switch will key the intercom, the intercom will key the audio panel and finally the audio panel will key the selected radio. You can tell a lot from which lights are coming on.

Out of curiosity I looked up the valve spring AD on these engines. It requires replacing them every 500 hrs. I wander how many have had the tach and hobbs accidentally quit working for most of the year?

If you currently have Klixon, the Tyco will not mount directly to the bus bar. The Tyco is deeper. Someone had put a Tyco landing light switch on my plane a long time ago and had to cut the bus bar off and use a jumper wire to supply power to the Breaker. Bus bars will also corrode over time and may need to be cleaned or replaced. Spruce sells mil spec predrilled busbars. If I remember correctly the Klixon switches are manufactured to a mil spec, not a PMA.

Sorry to hear that. Was it just a simple prop strike or other damage also?

The brother P touch will. I have the PT-2710. It will do anything up to one inch. I got a new one off ebay for under $30 several months ago. For rows of switches and breakers I have found it looks neater to make one long label instead of several short ones.

I was very impressed with their setup also. They took the time to give me a quick tour when I dropped my stuff off a couple of years ago. I was very relieved to get their call a few weeks later saying everything checked out. Rick Romans and Aircraft Specialties are right next door and are top notch also.

The annunciator is required for IFR Cert on 89B.

Does the 730 have a remote bright red flashing annunciation light right in front of the pilot? If not put one there and the bump the limits down 25 deg from the level you really want.

Does your transponder or other device display the output of the blind encoder? If so does it match the altimeter when set to 29.92?

I ran into this a few years ago and don't remember the number I ordered, but selected them from the chart below based on dimension. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/tinnerman2.php

I remember this from a few months ago. If I remember correctly this did not go to trial and there was no jury verdict. This was a case of Lycoming willfully withhold data they were supposed to turn over to the plaintiff and the judge did this to punish Lycoming for not turning it over.

The entire caliper assembly is around $700 if I remember correctly. You can buy a new body for $200 and put the parts out of your old ones in the new body and fix the pitting problems. I had severely pitted cylinders 2 years ago and did this. I have not had any problems since.

It is redundant, it will run off electric, vac or both depending on which is present.

Chris, It's a Brittain part that converts the 14vdc into 400hz AC to drive the turn cordinator. There is a fuse inside. It also has a pair of really old geranium transistors that Kevin told me was usually the problem.

If you decide to leave it where it is then offer an option to put a second landing light in the opening for the people who have already moved the oil cooler. The light weighs less than the oil cooler and the opening is already there and properly reinforced to support the oil cooler so from a certification standpoint it shouldn't be to much extra work.

Here is a slightly different prospective. If the iron content was high what would you do? Would you be willing to tear the engine down on a couple of high readings? Even with the high reading I think most owners and mechanics would suggest keep flying and keep a close check on the filter and screen.

You might want to keep the one with the higher deck heights, all things else being equals. There is a limited number of times they can be cut

I've heard several people say that a 201 window will greatly increase the airflow through the vents on the older planes

This is the same thing that got me to asking questions and looking around. It very well may be that after a couple of years with the same company they think they can slip an increase through and the owner will keep them. At the same time a new company may be willing to discount the price just to build market share with the idea to increase your rates in a year or two.

I shopped extensively outside my normal agent this year and ended up moving after finding out my agent wasn't getting quotes from all the underwriters. Starr had the second best quote, US specialties had the best. Of the ones that they provided me policies for I read them very carefully and there were some differences. Other than deductibles the major thing I noticed was that some were written much more strictly. Some flat out stated they would deny coverage if out of annual, or for expired annual, while another one specifically said they would not deny coverage for either of these if they expired mid year. The stricter one was the cheapest and the most generous one cost the most. I did not see a problem with complying with the conditions of the more strict one and went with it.

Like you I never see those temps either in flight. I was just pointing out that the ground run produced as high or higher temps than normally found in flight. I just mentioned restricting air flow thought the cooler as a possible way of reducing the time of the ground run and reducing the rpm of the ground run.

I had already done a quick 45 second run about 10 days ago, so this one needed more. I should be back flying before another 10 days are up. With the ground run I was able to get the oil above 212 which I have never saw in flight. I know this discussion has come up several times before and just wanted to let others know that low RPM ground run will heat the oil enough to get the moisture out and the cylinders still stay at a reasonable temp. I'm guessing with some experimentation it might be possible to block most of the cooler with tape and lower the RPM more.

I have the all leather version and was able to make it work by pushing it down low (below the welded angle on the Jbar). When down below the weld, wheel well clearance isn't a issue and the rearward travel is reduced when the Jbar is lowered into the floor socket.