N601RX

What your saying would apply equally to you also. Below is what the FAA says about overhauls and the associated log entry. Read item 1. Also section 3-48 of the current version of the direct drive overhaul manual clearly says that SB240 is recommended. To me recommended does not mean required. If you can show me anything crediitable that says different I'll be happy to admit that I'm wrong. Code of Federal Regulations Sec. 43.2 Part 43 MAINTENANCE, PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE, REBUILDING, AND ALTERATION Sec. 43.2 Records of overhaul and rebuilding. (a) No person may describe in any required maintenance entry or form an aircraft, airframe, aircraft engine, propeller, appliance, or component part as being overhauled unless-- (1) Using methods, techniques, and practices acceptable to the Administrator, it has been disassembled, cleaned, inspected, repaired as necessary, and reassembled; and (2) It has been tested in accordance with approved standards and technical data, or in accordance with current standards and technical data acceptable to the Administrator, which have been developed and documented by the holder of the type certificate, supplemental type certificate, or a material, part, process, or appliance approval under [part 21 of this chapter.] ( No person may describe in any required maintenance entry or form an aircraft, airframe, aircraft engine, propeller, appliance, or component part as being rebuilt unless it has been disassembled, cleaned, inspected, repaired as necessary, reassembled, and tested to the same tolerances and limits as a new item, using either new parts or used parts that either conform to new part tolerances and limits or to approved oversized or undersized dimensions. Amdt. 43-43A, Eff. 4/16/11 Comments Document History Notice of Proposed Rulemaking Actions: Not Applicable. Final Rule Actions: Final rule. Docket No. FAA-2006-25877; Issued on 10/6/2009 Final rule; correction. Docket No. FAA-2006-25877; Issued on 2/24/2010

Approved, but not mandatorty. If you don't believe me google it or read the link above. The FAA has issued guidance stating that several times. Here is the link FAA interpetation. Read the last paragraph of the 1st page and continued onto the 2nd page. http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/newsitems/2006/060828sb-letter.pdf

No its not. 240 is a service bulletin issued by lycoming. The fact that lycoming stamped Mandatory on it means nothing as for as the FAA is concered. The FAA has repeadily issued clarifications over the years that service bulletins are not mandatory. If you don't believe it just Google "Mandatory Service Bulletins". http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/briefs/service_bulletin_193095-1.html

1st of all our engines use the direct drive overhaul manual, not the 76 overhaul manual. If you will read the section directly above all the stuff you have posted you will see that it uses the word recommended, not required. Don't get me wrong, all of the things should be replaced, but are by no means mandatory. The word overhaul is very subjective. As Tony said, you are required to replace the gaskets. 3-44. Arbitrary Replacement of Parts. It is recommended that certain parts throughout the engine be replaced at normal overhaul regardless of their apparent condition. Consult the latest edition of Service Bulletin No. 240 for information on the replacing of parts at overhaul. Included among these are the following: 3-

I may have had the one for the K and S mixed up. I've purchased several things from the person who has the K valve listed and have always been happy with what he sold me.

I found a 16 watt radio KY196A off ebay a few weeks ago, but have not got a chance to install it yet. The KY196's are 16 watts and available at very reasonable prices ($300). The only downside is they are 28 volts and the voltage converter is required. I was able to find a lone star voltage converter for $200. These are very small units and only weigh 1/2 lb.

If its the one about removing the ram air door, and he brought it up for no other reason he is fishing for work.

There was a almost new one on e-bay a few days ago off a salvaged K model

All the gauges may have a common failure point. This is much more likely than each of the probes failing. The amp meter uses a current shunt, and it would be almost unheard of for one of these to fail. I just replaced my regulator with a unit from Plane Power. It's adjustable and about $100 cheaper than the zephtronics unit that was approved for my plane.

Don't forget those horrible Slick mags.

I would not feel bad at all about telling him which seal you want to use. I'm sure your engine came from from the overhaul shop with a 1pc seal and you have every right to insist that a 1 pc be used when repairing it. Is it covered under warranty? After warming it up in boiling water it will actually go on rather easily.

In all likelyhood your bottom end did get a overhaul. The crank was checked, its very likely the rods were also. You also purchased a new cam and lifters. Do you know if the oil pump gears,housing and driveshaft were replaced? If so that pretty much covers the bottom end overhaul. Obviously your accessories, cylinders and pistons were checked and reused, but these are things that can be changed later on a as needed basis.

Because it is the safe thing to do and the insurance will pay for it. All the things mentioned above are good things to replace, but can you show me the requirements to replace any of them? The term overhaul is very subjective. Start calling shops and asking for a list of parts they replace. Most reputable shops are going to follow SB240, but its just a service bulletin.

Overhaul is a very subjective term. You can call about anything an overhaul. There is no requirement to replace anything, you can just measure and inspect everything and put it back together. That's why its very important to save reciepts on field overhauls so you can prove what was done. They are not all the same. Most people are going to want to see where the cylinders, steel parts and case were sent out as well as a list of all parts replaced.

Make sure the crankcase vent tube is correct and not obstructed in any way. If the crankcase is building pressure, it will make the seal leak.

I place the shop vac in the luggage compartment and the hose is long eough to reach up front.

The lycoming gasket kit actually includes both seals. I used the one piece seal also when overhauling my engine. Remove the spring, tape the crank flange good with electric tape to cover the sharp edges, warm the seal up in hot water lube everything up and it will actually go on easier than you think. I used pliobond also. You can order it from mcmaster.com if you can't find it locally. If it still want go, you can always consult with your local gynocologist for additional ideas.

The servos and turn cordinator are part of the existing wing leveler or PC system. This system is a easy and economical way to upgrade the basic wing leveler to allow it to track a nav source (GPS or Nav radio) as well as whatever heading is dialed into the heading bug.

Here are the install manuals for these 2 systems.

At some point, I think is was around mid 70's Mooney started making removable pedels. The linkage all stayed in place, there was just a single cross bolt to remove just below top of the leather boot and the pedal upright and toe bar would slide out. I know the 79's came this way, but I'm not exactly what year it started in.

Brittain Autopilot system. Avoid the factory 2-3 year wait. This is a complete Accutrack and Accuflite system. It contains all the major parts, you will only need a few fittings, hose and hookup wire. I have this same system on my plane and its an easy upgrade for anyone who has the factory PC or wing leveler. It will track up to 2 nav or gps sources as well as any heading dialed into the DG. The DG does have one knob missing which most shops should have laying around. Unlike Stec, Brittain will check out/ repair their used systems and give you the STC for a very reasonable amount. $2500, washing machine not included.

You can search for several previous threads on this. Be sure to flush all the old fluid out. If the wheel cylinders are pitted, the orings will not help. Here is what I used. $7 at lowes. Having someone inside moving the pedal back and forth slowly will help.

It depends on how much you want to spend. If you want a turnkey job, and cost is not an issue take it to an avionics shop. Expect at least $80hr. If you want to do as cheaply as possible, go talk to your friendly A&P and see how much of it he will agree to let you do. I think I ended up with around $30 in materials and several hrs of my time when I did mine. I will say it is time consuming fitting everything. If you want a copy of the CAD files I cut mine from pm me your e-mail address.

I don't think the holes are drilled the same

Is fuel pressure stable when it messes up? Is the boost pump still on? It could be getting a little air in the fuel line from around the fuel selector when at a high pitch. The pump would have to suck harder as the nose comes up higher and if the orings are bad it could let a little air in.