OR75

I believe I read in the G5 install manual that you actually cannot do that

A 10 degrees error would not be unusual for a standard whiskey compass I found it odd that changing the alignment would reduce the error in one direction and increase it in other direction. You have interference in where the GMU is located

what is for sure is that you cannot install a G5 and get rid of the whiskey compass I would find it surprising that the post would have become magnetized all of a sudden after the repaired compass was reinstalled my suggestions would be: 1) make sure you don't have something like an iphone/ipad near the compass 2) see if you can borrow a compass known to work and test it (short of buying a new one)

Reading the previous post : if the magnetic heading you are getting changes when you switch on and off some other electric equipments, then you have the wrong location for the GMU and you need to relocate it to a place with no magnetic interference if your magnetic heading is just off (vs a compass card painted on the ground at an airport) but does not change when you switch on and off electric equipment, then your GMA is not correctly aligned Both cases are addressed in the install manual A paper correction card (like you have for a whiskey compass) will not solve your issue

Just curious whether the February shipment was your choice or the lead time from the factory

Maybe I don’t understand what you mean but my thinking is : the only instrument that requires a card is the whiskey compass any other magnetometer based compasses (HSIs) have a calibration procedure to be within 10 degrees max (I think that’s the right number for the G5 if I recall well) if that’s not the case , your GMU needs to be realigned (I had to do that for my G5 using washers)

The plastic that has PG and SEL on them are actually caps behind which the screw is

You need to pry out the caps (the caps that have SEL and PG on them. that cover the knobs. Use a blade or a tiny flat screwdriver for that . Make sure you don.t loose those caps . then use the tool pictured above to remove the knobs. Hold the knob and unscrew with the tool above (it will be straightforward once you uncap the knobs

The yellow arc goes away with the hartzel prop I already have that prop and changed the tach markings

As far as installation is concerned ... going from IO360A3B6D to IO390 is the same as if you go to an IO360A3B6 ... the accessories panel is the same ... so you will need those brackets for the governor etc ... there is a good illustrated thread on the conversion on this site

Need a C212 ? It should work with your serial number !

Here is the link to the STC . I have the install manual somewhere but need to find it https://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgSTC.nsf/0/3d4b7bcbe01b72fa86257d0a005e0697/$FILE/SA09695AC.pdf

Probably best to get the IA check it once done

Trade shows ? They still have those ?!?

That’s not the case any more I am curious if you could point to any documentation of issues with the 390. I am legitimately curious. I have not lurked in the SR20 communities. Maybe the biggest default of the IO-390 is What we are comparing it to: the IO-360 is a very robust engine

I’d go IO-390 initially, the cost was higher : cost of the engine was higher, need the hartzel prop and you had to use a lycoming service center the only thing that remains is that you still need a hartzel prop. I have not heard of any issue from a reliability standpoint (it is in the SR20 as mentioned above) note also that the accessories panel is the same as the IO-360-A3B6 (non D) ... so that means you will have to deal with new hoses and governor setting / brackets anyway

1) I never understood why would would want to have 2 TXPs - certainly no issue in flight, maybe not to be grounded for next flight in the very unlikely case where 1 fails ?? 2) if you are looking for a spot for an engine monitor, why not remove the TC and put the electric AI you already have in there ? (you will have to add a ball unless you replace both with one G5 or one RC 2610-3) - either is lighter and better as a backup than what you have right now

Apart from saving 2 lbs and making the panel look more sexy, I see no benefit in removing the Alt and VSI

if you have two small blade antennas in the belly they may be for: transponder or DME or ADB-in you may get questions on engine accessories / ignition and electrical systems

Read the section about annunciation. The GNS 430 has annunciation

The CIIB servo is completely independent of the Can bus . My GMU 11 is actually on the opposite wing. The wing with the servo has the pitot heat and stall warming wires the servo will get its signal from the CIIB console the question is more about where you will install the GAD29B (if you have or will have one )

Keyed to prevent spinning

If you are going that route, your mechanic will need the #8 rivnuts, the #8 machine screws and the tool to install the rivnuts you really don’t need to worry about whether those are mm or 1/32 of in a good length for the machine screws would be 1/2 in

The Annual Inspection is just that ... an Inspection. It does not call for preventative maintenance, maintenance or repairs. But with cowling open and need to check filters, it is best to delay or advance changing the oil to time it with the annual. The IA should ask what oil and what filter you use.