N201MKTurbo

A rivet costs one cent and can be set in five seconds. A screw and nut cost a quarter and takes a minute to assemble.

When the pump fails it will tear the shear coupling. After that there is no harm running the engine. When you replace the pump clean all the hoses and fittings back to the vacuum regulator. If there is any debris in the hose then pull all the vacuum hoses and the regulator and clean them all. The pumps will sometimes up chuck bits back into the vacuum system when they fail. Don't use Teflon tape on the pump fittings. If a bit of it comes loose it will kill the pump.

Great idea should work great. The headlight lenses are made of polycarbonate which is a bit harder then PMMA. So it should work a bit faster. Looking forward to hearing a report from someone. I would try it on a side window first before going at the windshield.

The hobbs meter was invented to make aircraft rental operations more money.

It is your bendix. It should engage even with a weak battery or starter. If you are mechanically inclined, it is easy to remove the bendix once the starter is removed and the hardest thing about removing the starter is removing the lower cowl and then the front baffle. After that it is a piece of cake. My experience is that the bendix just gets dirty and full of crud. After you remove it just throw it in a can of solvent and clean it as best as you can. there is nothing you will hurt. When you are done hose it down with silicone spray and work it in and then dry it off with a rag. When you have it off and clean you can check the condition of the various bushings. You will be able to tell if it is warn out.

You might still be able to do it, it'll just be a PITA.....

BTW If you have a Prestolite starter, I have a perfectly functional one collecting dust in my hanger that I'll sell for less then the cost of a bendix..

Yes when the engine fires it will force the bendix to retract. This is easy to do on an F unless you have a cowl closure.

The extra weight has almost zero effect on cruise speed, it will make your climbs a little slower. For $1 a gallon, fill up at the cheaper airport.

I bought a NL starter and it quite about a month after I bought it. I called Skytec and they sent me a new one overnight. After I returned the old one and they determined that it was an internal failure, they credited everything. Total cost to me $0. Great customer service. BTW it has worked perfect ever sense.

You can engage the bendix by rotating the bendix with a screwdriver or bic pen, while rotating the prop backwards. Once engaged you have one shot at starting the engine. Not something you want to do every day but it will get you home.

That is a very bad thing to do if it is a dukes actuator. The disconnect mechanism is made of unobtanium.

Did you have straight weight oil?

If you have the skills, don't forget the lowly skateboard. The young boys in town are always thrilled to see someone our age riding one.

I've never seen this problem, but I've read about it. If you fly too fast with the flaps down you can crack the bulkhead that the flap torque tube hinges are mounted to. I would have your guy check this. My experience is that the flaps should not move more then 1/4 inch when you pull up on them in any intermediate position.

5 degrees seems like a lot of slop in the flap system. Have you noticed if the position indicator is moving or just seeing the flaps looking out the window? The indicator comes from the flap torque tube, not the flaps themselves.

Whale it is certainly easier with two people. I remove the lower cowl by myself all the time. It is a bit acrobatic and I hit my head on the prop a lot.

I agree completely. If you have ever done any paint work than you can fix this yourself for the price of the materials. I would do both wingtips so they look the same. Pull off the battery cover or an access plate from the bottom of the wing that has the un-faded color of the paint to take to the paint shop for matching. For that small of a ding JB Weld (1:1 epoxy, aluminum powder, fumed silica and glass micro bubbles) would work just fine as a filler. If it was any bigger I would grind it out per the service manual and add a few layers of cloth. Just remember that anything can be fixed with time and sandpaper.

FWIW you can see the pickup screen by removing the fuel sensor.

If it is all the same color it should be about $750. R&R 2 hours Materials $250 Prep 2 hours Paint 1hour Materials may be less if the shop has a good relationship with the paint dealer. It will take about 100ml of paint, but they may only sell a minimum of a quart in a custom color.

It depends on what year J you have. They changed the warning system a lot back then. I had the same problem last annual and cleaning the micro switch on the throttle quadrant fixed it. I have a 77 J.

While I wouldn't use a part from the hardware store, I would try to find the standard aviation part. It will be much cheaper.

You probably have he Hoskins power units. The rate partially depends on the condition of the bulbs. As they get old they will slow down. Try swapping the strobe tubes between the two sides and see if the problem switches sides. It may actually be easier to swap power units between the two sides. PM me and we can discuss your repair options. And costs.

Did you notice the fuel pressure when it was popping?

The letter indicates the orafice size. There are A, B and C injectors. The different injectors are for different fuel flow gage ranges when using the pressure gage connected to the flow divider for fuel flow.