N201MKTurbo

I saturated it with methylene chloride paint stripper. Which works better then MEK. The stuff is just hard to get off, it is full of sand. The chisel barely ever touched the aluminum. There was original paint under the old wing walk which was pretty tough. It stopped the chisel from getting to the metal. I would hesitate from using large amounts of MEK for fear that it would seep through the cracks and degrade your tank sealant.

I masked the good paint with aluminum tape and then regular masking tape and paper. I removed the trim around the wing and masked the fuselage. I used paint stripper from Home Depot. I started with plastic and aluminum scrappers but had to switch to an old wood chisel ( be careful). It was a real PITA. It took 8 hours of stripping and scrapping to get the old stuff off. When I was done I washed it with MEK, lightly sanded it to remove the remaining residue then washed it again with MEK. I sprayed it with Zinc Chromate and went home. The next day I removed all the masking tape. There was a small paint ridge where the wing paint met the old wing walk. I carefully knocked it off with a wood chisel. This took an hour or so. I then masked it again with masking tape about 1/16 inch further out then the old paint line. I used Ultra Wing Walk which is a urethane rubber product. I applied it with a roller and a paint brush. It looks beautiful!

When I re did the interior of my F about 15 years ago I gained 20 pounds of useful load. Part of the process was removing all the interior including the fiberglass. I scrubbed out the whole plane with a bucket of soap and water and a hose. I replaced the insulation with EAR insulation. I had previously completely rewired the avionics. This produced about a one foot high pile of wires that went nowhere. I was surprised the weigh in was as close to the book as it was. On another note, I recently replaced my wing walk. I stripped it down to bare metal. I put all the removed material in a 5 gallon bucket as I scraped it off. There was at least 4 layers of old wing walk paint on the wing. I didn't weigh the bucket, but I bet there was 20 pounds of stuff in there.

When I bought my F in 84, those panels were sealed with zinc chromate putty. It worked real good. The mechanic I worked with back then had some. I would just gather up all the old putty and roll it into a ball, add some new stuff from my mechanics can, roll it into a snake any press it into the little troughs where the panels go and screw them back on. They never leaked and they were easy to clean and redo. I have no idea if you can even get the stuff anymore.

FWIW. You can still get real Zinc Chromate from West Marine.

The remote transfer wire may be shorted to ground or the humidity may have caused the transfer line to be pulled to ground. It has a 10K resistor for a pullup to 5V. The humidity may be interacting with some crud to pull it low and switch. The remote transfer is on pin H. It could be that your front panel switch is dirty. The humidity could be affecting it.

I have had both Horizon and UMA electronic tach's. Both were rock solid and both cost about $500

About a month ago I flew from KRDM to KCHD non stop. I planned on a fuel stop, but when I got there it looked like I could get home with 45 minuets of fuel left. When I got home I topped it off and actually had 54 minuets of fuel left. That was an 849 Kmile leg. That was flown at 15500 28.5 in 2400 RPM 9.3 GPH LOP 175 TAS 190 GS. I love my Mooney....

WOT = Wide Open Throttle

Just blow a couple hundred bucks in gas and do a test flight some Saturday and see how your plane does. Over dry land of course.

BTW, go get a Sky Tec starter.

The method that I have used for the last 30 years, is to leave the mixture at idle cutoff. Open the throttle to the 1000 RPM position. Crank until it starts. Then wait until it starts to die and advance the mixture to full rich. This has worked every time. The fact that you have fuel running out the sump drain indicates the engine is flooded.

I have everything to put an oxygen system in my plane except the pilots side panel with the gage and valve. I'm not sure the Bravo stuff would fit my J, but I would be interested anyway.

I have proven over the years that my Prestolite alternator will work forever completely saturated with oil.

That is where you carry the illegal drugs.

Wow, that is some great stuff! I would love to buy it. The boss said no way...

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/el/noisefilters/lonestarFilter70amp.php This one should work for you.

Most of the ones you will find will not be as rugged as the original. It has hermetically sealed ceramic binding posts. I have found that it does very little to suppress alternator noise and just bypassing it should be considered. It was installed on airplanes that had generators and was used to suppress commutater noise.

The reality is that if it is your plane you can do anything you want with it. If you know what you are doing, no problem. If you do something wrong and have an accident, there will be hell to pay.

When the block times are that close, things like how long it takes to open the hanger doors becomes important....

From everything that I've seen your plane is fine. Go watch some football and drink some beers and quit worrying about your plane.

20 is more retarded. The number is the number of degrees of crankshaft rotation before TDC that the spark fires. More advanced is a bigger number and will fire sooner thus giving the fuel charge more time to burn in your cylinder. It affects the rotational position of peak cylinder pressure, which should ideally be at 15 degrees after TDC. Ideally we could control the spark advance in the cockpit. But the danger of detonation is too great so they don't let us....

I used to commute between Phoenix and Tucson. I would drive two days and fly three days, because frankly they both got boring. The door to door times were exactly the same 1:45....

Sucking air into your fuel lines, probably at the selector.

As I stated before the more retarded mag will give the higher EGT reading. The more retarded you are (well, your mag is) the less time there is for the fuel charge to burn. This will put less heat into the cylinder and leave more heat in the exhaust gas because burning is not complete. Thus your CHT goes down and your EGT goes up. Considering that #4 did not go crazy on either mag, it doesn't look like an ignition problem. It is always good to have your mags synced, but that is not your problem. I had an instructor from the Emily Griffiths School (A&P) tell me the rotational alignment of the fuel injector nozzle would have an effect on the mixture of the individual cylinders. I have found this to be correct. The letter stamped on one of the flats of the injector nozzle is opposite the vent hole. If you align them all to the same orientation to your cylinders you will get mort consistent mixture. I do this by taking a 1/2 inch six point deep socket and wrapping it with 2 inch masking tape. I then put a vertical line along opposite flats of the socket so I can see how they are pointed while tightening. One line is aligned with letter the other is 180 degrees away. I put the vent holes towards the cylinder head. The theory is that the air density changes with temperature and there is quite a difference in temperature with the vent hole pointed near the cylinder or away from the cylinder. This effect is vary small, but so is the problem with your #4 cylinder.