cliffy

The main gear doors could stand to be sucked up a little tighter. They should be snug but not so tight that they bend as they touch the bottom of the wing. There should be a small rubber pad in the top of each main wheel well that the tire can rub on instead of rubbing on the wing skin when up. The doors have an adjustment but make sure the gear is up where it needs to be before you adjust the doors. Ck the MM. If you have to adjust the gear legs remember to rerig all the way from the beginning by setting up the main gear bellcrank and actuator correctly as a starting point. I sure you will but make sure someone who knows what he is doing does an over-center torque check with the proper tools on each gear leg.

Ed- COOL! I have a D also AND its N1969Y You'll get used to holding the control wheel very loosely when you retract the gear and not try to use it as a brace. Big item to remember- if you bounce a landing on the third bounce you get the prop. Don't gallop down the runway. Stabilize and go around. More pictures More pictures!

Sorry have been gone for a few days My guess? 1 Hyd flap supply line from reservoir to pump (just did one- 3Q63 date code) 2 Flap actuator hose fwd to first B nut under rear seat 3 Fuel Pressure line behind instrument panel 4 Manifold pressure line behind instrument panel #1 can be rerouted to avoid kink as it goes through the steel tubing framework. It doesn't have to follow the original path.

Millennials have no idea :-)

Cheeburger cheeburger cheeburger If anyone remembers that far back on SNL

Sheet! I have to drive from the northern border of Arizona to Tucson tomorrow as the pane is down for maintenance. 9 hrs instead of 2.3. I don't care what it costs to fly the Mooney. After 40 yrs of airlines and TSA, in the Mooney, I can fly armed, with liquids and decent food on board, no lines, no screaming kids, no sick seatmates and door to door, under 1000 miles, I can beat the airlines (from where I live). Priceless!

What are the four most often neglected hoses in a vintage Mooney? :-) :-) What four hoses may have manufacturing dates back in the 60s? :-) :-)

Just in time to beat the bad weather back in NJ

I deplore the foul language when the correct wrench is NOT used! :-) Also a bent (90 degree) piece of wire to start the bottom nuts is a help also.

They're age cut off is a lot lower than ours-something in the mid-50s for most.

Just ran across this by accident but it's a nice series of videos on aircraft ignition systems I hope its OK to post it https://disciplesofflight.com/airplane-ignition-system/

There are basically 2 types of "drones" (or RC models). 1) MODEL airplanes 2) Commercial operations (any time money or other valuables change hands for a drone flight- a. a real estate agent paying for aerial pictures of a house for sale b. pictures sold for advertising, etc (these two are not all possibilities) For Commercial operations the pilot has to be licensed (and if he is a "real" pilot under Pt 61 violations of drone rules get filed against his PPL Has to have an operations manual, etc. Model aircraft are all the rest. They are restricted to 400 AGL and Line of Sight of the operator AND not after dark. They have to be registered. Other restrictions apply like not over people, etc. ALL have a restriction for 5 mile radius of any airport unless notification to the airport is completed. Here's a neat website that gives airports and other controlled airspace and the phone numbers to call- http://knowbeforeyoufly.org/air-space-map/ ALL can't fly in TFRs, Restricted or Prohibited airspace. Can't run them over Disneyland! Unfortunately this will be a $10 BILLION dollar industry in just a few years and there will be idiots out there. We WILL have a collision in flight at some time.

Trump just got his own TFR until Jan http://tfr.faa.gov/save_pages/detail_6_5257.html

Does anyone remember thermal runaways with NiCads in their early use in jets? Just like now, maybe more maturation of the technology might be in order.

You would need drawings showing how the battery box is mounted, specing rivet spacing from 43.13. then you will need structural strength as shown in 43.13 and a new weight and balance work up also from 43.13. Battery cable size and mounting is also in 43.13. It can be done with correct references to the specific parts of 43.13. All this goes on the 337 form, signed by the IA and approved by the local FAA office. It can be done but your A&P needs to be familiar with 43 13 and the 337 It might be worth a try to find a 337 used by another Mooney for this same project as that can be used as "approved" reference for the install

Now wax it! Good for another 10 to 15 kts TAS :-)

I was going to suggest a $15 book "How to Buy Used Aircraft Without Taking a Dive" BUT I just looked on Amazon- YIKEES! The price is in the gold standard arena not even for used. I'll hang onto mine! https://www.amazon.com/Used-Aircraft-Without-Taking-Dive/dp/B000NNB1CA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1478550035&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=how+to+buy+a+plane+without+taking+a+dive

"I feel your pain" :-) But, I don't know your mechanical ability or experience to do the job. What at first seems "car simple" can devolve into a struggle to get it right without the requisite knowledge. If you don't have a spin on filter then you have 2 screens to check. One is the main oil screen (very fine mesh) and the other is the suction screen. Both use copper crush washers of different sizes that will need to be replaced (and placed on the respective screen in the correct orientation). Both will need tightening to the correct torque spec. The drain plug on the sump is a pipe plug that also has a torque spec. All three then will need to be safety wired correctly. I'd be willing to bet someone at your local airport (maybe even an A&P) would be willing to guide you through the process so you can do it perfect the first time. This might be your best bet. Glad you are looking to do it correct. It's not difficult but needs to be done perfectly. You can do it with the correct training. Find it and do it and then enjoy the fruits of your labor. Another skill to add to the resume!

1395 Exactly what I've done and heard for 30 years. I always make the call JUST to be legal.

A short story- At one time many years ago while flying for an unnamed airline (all names changed to protect the innocent:-) late at night we checked in on Center and then heard derogatory comments about our airline. This went on for three iterations when Center came on and said, " OK everyone, listen up, I'm working 2 airplanes, Speed Streak 101 turn right heading 270 for radar identification, Blue Skies 32 (my airline) CLEARED DIRECT JFK!" :-) :-) Now to throw gas on the fire- You are at 12000 with a PD to 8000 clearance. You stay at 12000 for some time and then decide it's time to go down. DO YOU CALL CENTER AND SAY "Mooney XYZ OUT OF 12000 FOR 8000" or do you just start down without saying anything?

FAR 91.3 The Capt. and only the Capt. is always responsible and the final authority for the safe operation of the airplane. You did the right thing! ATC is for traffic separation only. If they miss something it's your responsibility to correct it if you see it first. Fly the airplane first, communicate last. Things happen fast, fly first, communicate last. Always remember, as good as they are, if a pilot makes a mistake, he can die, if the controller makes a mistake, the pilot can die. Not trying to malign controllers but everyone makes mistakes at times. We all have to be vigilant. One last item, as I used to teach my 121 students, NO is always an option. Just because ATC wants something done (like driving through a T storm), if the pilot thinks it's unsafe (and can back it up by HIS observations), NO is always an option. FAR 91.3

Tell your shop you will get it repaired WITH correct paperwork on return and send it to Maxwell. yourself. It may take longer than just plopping a new valve in but you'll have more money for avgas when done:-) You don't have to waste your money. There is nothing too difficult about resealing and cleaning up the valve. I did it on mine (I'm an A&P with a 64 also). There are two very tiny ball bearings inside that work as the "detents" that will disappear if one is not careful on disassembly (do it over a clean white towel).

I just mop the painted concrete floor of our community hangar and slide around in old clothes. I find that easier than on and off a creeper.

Getting up off a creeper is harder than just sliding along the floor!

You need to get your mechanic to look at the TCDS sheet (Type Certificate Data Sheet) for your model and check the elevator and stabilizer movements with a travel board to see if they match. Make sure you use the correct SERIAL NUMBER section. I guessed at that by your 1967 year. But the process is the same. I've clipped it out here but look it up here- http://www.67m20e.com/Mooney TCDS 2A3 Rev 52 dtd 9DEC10.pdf Track down to F models and you'll see this- Control Surface Movements Wing Flaps ................................T.O. Position ......... Down ........15 1 ...................................................Landing ................. Down .........33 + 0/ -2 Aileron..............................Up .......12½ to 17 ....... Down ......... 8 ± 1 Aileron static position............................................... Down ......... 0 to 2 Elevator ...........................Up .......22° + 0°, 2°........ Down ........22° + 0°, -2° Rudder ............................ Left .......23 to 24 .......... Right .........23 to 24 Stabilizer (L.E.) ................Up .......½ to 1 ............. Down ........5¼ to 5 ¾ Elevator Trim Assist Unit (for Aircraft with Serial Nos. to 680001): With stabilizer set at 3½ negative setting to the thrust line, adjust trim assist unit 740128 for elevator up angle of 5° +/- 1 at the zero spring travel position. Elevator Trim Assist Unit (for Aircraft with Serial Nos. 680001 and up): With stabilizer set at 3 negative setting The items to note are that the elevators moves 22' up and down AND that the "stabilizer" (used for longitudinal trim) is set at about 1' LEADING EDGE UP and about 5 1/2 degrees LE DOWN for travel limits. You need to level the airplane to measure this. Next and very important is the "zero spring force" setting of the elevators (elevator trim assist unit paragraph above) with the STABILIZER IS SET TO 3 1/2 degrees STABILIZER LEADING EDGE NOSE DOWN (in relation to the center line of the airplane,{air flow}) This means you will need to level the airplane front to back correctly before you can use the travel board to make this setting. Set the stabilizer at 3 1/2 degrees LE DOWN and then measure how far UP the elevators project. They should show about 5 degrees UP WITH NO FORCE PUSHING OR PULLING ON THE BUNGEE SPRINGS. Kind of a neutral position. If they are not at 5 degrees then they are adjusted by loosening the jamb nut ON THE FORWARD END of the bungee rod (you need a crows foot wrench on an extension to do it) and then turning the entire bungee in or out of the forward rod end to get the correct setting. BOTH elevators need to match. Don't forget to check the witness hole in the forward rod end for thread engagement after setting the angles (ask your A&P what that is but it's important). At this same time, just to cover another base, check your tail for loose (worn) hinge bolts by moving the outboard end of the stabilizer tip up and down and fore and aft to see if you see any play or hear any clicking or noise. Go easy, you don't have to bend anything. If it's bad you'll feel it move. If you can feel movement you may need to change the bolts. There are limits in the MM (near control surface balancing 3 small lines of info) but suffice to say it is a limit about a 10th of an inch either way measured at the tip of the stabilizer. Many times just changing bolts WITH THE CORRECT BOLTS cures the problem. Hope this helps.