Hank

I write the approach I'm given, and Cleared to Land, on the notepad error that I record frequency changes, route and reroutes on. Easy. Simple. The Pre-Landing Checklist is silkscreened and illuminated on my panel, by the factory. Easier. Simplest. Right below the gear switch. I'm a big fan of the KISS principle, just not the band.

My guess is that it was unclear enough that few were willing to pony up . . . The funds were held in a non-interest-bearing account!

Thermo was easy. An awful lot of it boils down to Then again, I'm an ME with a Master's Degree.

Mine was replaced a few years ago, memory says the old one was shorter.

From Kmart??? Sure it is! But the washcloths are thinner and lighter weight.

Be happy! One of the ears broke off of my flapper, and it would default to Full Carb Heat at about 100-200agl. The first time was a surprise--slow climb, slow cruise, and no idea what was happening. Had to apologize to Atlanta Center when they asked if I was really a Mooney. My new IA (I had just relocated 600 miles) was able to.weld on a blob and file a new ear out of it. As a bad welder myself, I recognized his appalling job, but I've never welded sheet metal (I've usually welded > 1/8' thickness). Good luck with your repair. If you haven't noticed a loss of speed and climb, you're not flying around with a whole lot of Carb Heat on.

I buy bulk packs of plain white terry cloth washcloths and hand towels just for this. Washcloths for the windshield, or for scrubbing, and the hand towels for wash wax all. Used to get them at Kmart, now have upgraded to Walmart, Sam's or wherever i see them.

Sorry to hear about this! It may depend upon what year the E is, because sometime in the 60s, elevator and rudder deflections changed. Also, around 1965-66, the length of the rudder changed--older rudder stopped at the horizontal stabilizer, later rudder go all the way to the bottom.

In my C, thus is the only entry point for heated air. It can also bring in fresh air, but still from under the cowl. I usually run a 50-50 mix, pulling roughly the same amount of Cabin Heat as Fresh Air through this vent (because full Cabin Heat will cook me in my seat).

Wipe it on, wipe it off. Even makes cleaning the belly easy.

I use Aero Cosmetics Wash n Wax; Blue (regular) for the whole plane, except Red (degreaser) for the belly. At annual, I lean my one piece belly against the wall and do it one half at a time.

I can measure the one on my C and make a leather one. But my dyes are limited to shades of brown.

How so? That's where my heated air from the muffler shroud comes in.

Yes, I turn off the fuel pump for every crank, ever since attending my first MAPA PPP the month after finishing my insurance dual back in 2007. The key to cold starts is to give the cold fuel time to vaporize before turning the key. If it fires but doesn't catch, pump the throttle quickly while continuing to crank. "Pump" means full stroke, Idle to WOT and back to Idle, and keep pumping while cranking. After about 15 seconds, if it's not running, give it a rest, then try again with the whole thing if you haven't preheated the engine; if you did preheat, just pump the throttle several times, leave it cracked open, wait a bit (watch the yoke clock, 30 seconds under 40°F, 60 seconds if below freezing) and crank.

It's a C, look at the chin. What's with the lifting strap wrapped around it and going over the roof joist?