Pinecone

On my 252, there are two Alt switches. And a gauge with 3 needles, one for total % load, and one each for the two alternators % load. So part of pre-takeoff checklist is to turn off the main alternator and see that the load transfers to the 2nd alternator, then turn it on and the 2nd alt off, to see if the load transfers back. And checking the voltage on each alternator as you cycle the load to it.

Everyone assumes that it was up to GAMI to make the STC engine serial number specific. As for the airframe STC, FAA probably required that to put the stickers on. FYI, it seems the Swift STC is also specific to a specific airframe and engine: "Each FOREVER Avgas STC Certificate holder will receive private instructions to register their aircraft and engine in Swift Fuels’ database. Once the purchase is complete and the aircraft / engine is registered...." As for the pricing model, GAMI has always said it would be similar to other alternate fuel STCs like MOGAS, which a priced based on HP. I would suspect that most FBOs would rather carry G100UL over 94UL due to the larger market. EVERY piston aircraft can use G100UL. Many cannot use 94UL. And the ones that cannot use 94UL use more fuel, so higher sales.

But THAT engine? So if you do a Factory Reman or New engine, you have to purchase the STC again?

A friend did a 3D modeling of the ETA switch cover. He sent me a couple of samples to try. Need to get over to the plane and try them. Once the file is finalized, I have been talking to AH1 pilot to turn it over to him to make and sell them.

FYI, there is a rebate on your first fill up with G100UL if you purchase the STC before Feb 1, 2023. They will rebate up to $100 of your fuel purchase. https://g100ul.com/discount.html

HAHA, beat you. But you have a cooler number.

Just wondering, what is the last digits of your order number? Seeing how fast they are selling STCs. Mine is 0006 FYI, it is about $2 per HP. Interesting question on transferring the STC to another engine. Either another of the same or a different dash number. And if the STC is specific to that engine, can you transfer it if you sell the engine?

As I have said several times, I agree with idling during landing and taxi being enough. Unless you have to use excess power to taxi for some reason. The question is, how much power is too much power. MY technique is if I go over 1200 RPM within a short time before I am parked, I let it idle 1 - 2 minutes. This is probably very conservative, but I am fine with that. If it happens and I have a couple more minutes of taxiing, I don't bother with any idle time, as it has already had it. Wastegate is fully closed at low power settings, so ALL the exhaust gases go through the turbo. Keeping it at the highest RPM possible for faster response. Once the boost pressure gets near the maximum, the wastegate opens to reduce the amount of exhaust to control the maximum boost pressure. As you climb, the waste gate closes to increase the turbo output to maintain the manifold pressure.

Edited to direct to the STC sale site. Now, do I have the first Mooney STC????? FYI, you actually purchase two STCs. One for the airframe and one for the engine. For my 22/Encore (TSIOO_360-SB), it was $90 for the airframe STC and $400 for the engine STC. It seems you will get fuel placards for each filler port and one placard for the engine.

It seems the STC sales have started. https://stc.g100ul.com/

If you poll drivers to rate themselves on a scale of Poor, Fair, Average, Above Average, Excellent, 85% of them will rate themselves as Above Average or Excellent. I teach performance driving, and it is amazing how bad most drivers are, before proper training. And those are the ones interested in getting better. Also, for work, I am a certified instructor for a safe driver system that has been used be some major companies with lots of vehicles. And what amazed me was, that the stuff they teach, I figured out on my own. But even after training, many drivers do not get it.

Wasn't that a while ago.

Actually a fixed waste gate would spin up the turbo less. It is a fixed opening. An automatic wastegate will be fully closed at lower power settings, so all the exhaust goes through the turbo. My 85 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z was one of the first water cooled turbo center housings. It used a thermal siphon to cool the turbo after the engine was shut down. My 2012 Fiat Abarth has a pump that comes on and runs about 8 minutes after engine shutdown. Other 80s turbo car engines also had spin down/cool down recommendations. And ate turbos on a regular basis. You can make the argument that with the approach, landing, and taxi, it is already done, but it DOES exist.

Eat more cookies to make up the difference.

I would have to pull out my turbo design books, but from my memory, it takes a while to spin down. Oil temp from the turbo is indicative of the heat in the turbo. If you watch the oil temp just down stream from the turbo, when it stops dropping, the turbo is pretty cool.

You can still lift off the accelerator early and start slowing. I find it funny that so many people pass me at that point, the hit the brakes, stop and sit. About the time the light turns green, I roll up and keep on rolling.

Hmm, IIRC< George Braly mentioned over on BT that they had blended up about 18,000 gallons. I wonder where it went?

Hmm, cheaper hardware, but high data price. $15 a month = $180 a year, versus $50 for the Switcheon.

Agreed. That would be the best way to determine cool down requirements. Although, the other issue is spin down time. Not a big problem in aircraft due to pattern/landing/taxi time. In cars, you can have the turbo spinning at 100,000 RPM amd shut off the engine. The turbo takes a while to slow down.

The downside of tires that last a long time is that they have less traction (harder rubber). So longer braking distances.

Last I heard they were working on the STC process. Trying to get a waiver from having to have an IA sign off and file a 337. They did mix up a big batch not long ago. From what they had been saying, it may have gone to Reed Hillview.

It would if you had an oil temp probe on the return line from the turbo. But the general engine oil temp is after the turbo return oil goes into the sump and after the oil cooler.

One thing I saw on another forum for the vents is use a pipe cleaner. Fold in half and insert. Keep the mud daubers out, but if you forget them, air can still vent past it. A lifetime and then some supply for $6. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KVYZKTX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

OK, that makes sense. I did not know there were some screws in there.

Which is why a 252 converted to Encore is so nice.