Pinecone

He probably does it with a bot. People have reported he has renewed them a couple of seconds after the hold expires.

I have flown a number of PAR and ASR approaches. At least for training, I don't recall if any were for real. Maybe one or two. Nothing like flying a heavy weight PAR in the T-38, with a final approach speed of 175 KIAS. I have not flown a 4 course radio range approach, but my Dad flew them all the time. He was a USN pilot in the 50s and 60s. I have a friend who has a hobby of finding the remains of old radio range stations. The huge concrete blocks are hard to get rid of. He has found a number of the radio buildings intact.

I originally was going to do it in 1 gallon increments. But decided 2.5 gallons was easier and close enough. I did run a tank to the low fuel light in December. I was going to be somewhat low on fuel on landing, and my preference is to have as much as possible in1 tank versus spilt between two. I was not tight as to run one tank dry, but I did want to run it down a bit. And again, my use of this is to see how much fuel in in the plane to determine how much to add based on the next leg and W&B concerns. If you are interested, the reason 2.5 increments was easier is: I have 5 each 5 gallon jugs. I filled all 5 up with 55 gallons each. Since if there is less than 5 gallons in a tank, I don't care how much less, I poured one jug into the tank. I then took a full one and poured half into the empty one. This was easy to check, as I set the two jugs next to each other to see that the levels matched. Add the 2.5 gallons into the tank, wait for the levels to settle, measure, repeat.

OK, as requested, here are pictures of the locations I used the two devices. You can see how large the Fuel Stik is and why, due to the flapper I used dead after to reduce how far you have to push the flapper in. The pictures are of the aux filler.

MAYBE https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santos_Dumont_Airport#:~:text=Over the years%2C the airport's,4%2C340 feet (1%2C320 m).

A lot of nice numbers, especially short ones, are taken by a guy who is reselling them. He has several THOUSAND locked up. And can charge you $100,000 for a desirable one. Big thread on BT. I like mine. 2 Victor Mike is easy to say and seldom misunderstood.

I can get a picture of the aux filler port and the locations I used later today. I can't get a picture of the main filler, as the tanks are FULL. And yes, I discovered a leaking screw from having totally full tanks. As for keeping track, my thoughts are to dip after landing to see what is in the each tank, then I will just put in what I want to get to where I need to be. The only caveat, if you think you have over 42 gallons, open and dip the aux FIRST. Actually, opening and dipping the aux filler first is probably a good habit to get into. If there is enough fuel to get a reading, you don't need to dip the main filler. And if there isn't, you can then dip the main, or use the sight gauge. I need to do the same on the left tank to check the sight gauge readings.

He consulted with me when I was shopping. I could not get the airplane to him for the prebuy, but he worked with the shop that did it, and recently did my first annual.

1) I waited at least 5 minutes between each addition of 2.5 gallons. I also checked, waited a minute or two and checked again to make sure it was not changing. 2) I used the same location for each reading. For the Fuel Hawk, I used the inner, aft cutout in the cap mount. For the Fuel Stik, I put it at the after center of the opening. Due to the flaps and the size of the Fuel Stik, this worked best. 3) Yes, I understand that they are connected and it takes time for the fuel to move from one tank to the other.

Disagree. Sticking valves are commonly only one cylinder and are related to cold. Other things could be cold related, but only some of the cylinders.

Prove it. Track them down and find out. It was a SUPPOSITION.

Bryon @jetdriven at KGAI.

Nope. Once catalyzed, it cross links and turns solid in a few hours or a day at most.

You also need catalyst. These are two part paints. And I would check that the 15 year old paint is even a liquid at this point. You can buy fairly small cans of catalyst and thinner. As long as the thinner does not evaporate, it lasts many years. The catalyst, once opened, has limited shelf life. For thinning paint, I use the thinner recommended by the manufacturer. It is the only way to ensure compatibility. For cleaning your equipment you can use acetone, MEK, or generic lacquer thinner.

The discussion moved to start the process to have the STC declared abandoned.

I have heard the same thing. But just saying what I was taught. A number of years ago.

Except in this case, the STC will have been declared abandoned, so there is no longer a party to protect.

Attached is the information to figure out how much fuel is in your tanks. My plane is a 1986 252 with Monroy aux tanks and speed brakes. The main filler is placarded at 37.8 gallons and the aux fillers at 14.5 gallons. I ran the right tank until the engine sputtered. Then I added fuel 2.5 gallons at a time. To measure, I used a Universal Fuel Hawk and a Fuel Stik. The Fuel Hawk is the clear plastic tube you stick in and cover the end with your thumb. The Fuel Stik is a tube with a float that you insert and then read how much of the float rides up. I also measured the Fuel Hawk level in inches. I also have the sight gauge readings for my airplane. I will be sending the Fuel Stik info to the company, as the offer to generate a custom scale to insert in the device. I found that I could see fuel at 7.5 gallons, but I could not get a reliable measurement, so the chart starts at 10 gallons. I could see a wash of fuel in the aux at 25.0 gallons, but could not get a reading. Notice that even though I am placarded at 52.3 gallons useable, I got more than 54 gallons in the tank. I set my JPI to show fully fueled at 104 gallons useable, so I will have a bit of reserve in my pocket. One other interesting thing was, even when the fuel was almost full at the aux filler, when I added fuel, I could hear air bubbling out of the main. I would have thought that the main would be filled a long time before the aux got to the top. Universal Fuel Hawk - https://www.mypilotstore.com/MyPilotStore/sep/1177?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo8eww-ic_QIVBrjICh10RQJAEAQYASABEgIdLPD_BwE Universal Fuel Stik - http://fuelstik.com/product/fuelstik/ Enjoy Fuel Measurements.pdf

Which one and why? And which lights to pulse? I have wingtip recognition lights and two landing/taxi lights in the lower cowling. So what pattern to flash? Alternate the wingtip recog left - right - left? Or alternate the two wingtip with one of the nose lights? Or some other pattern. Also, my plane does not have a beacon. I like a beacon for ground operations to warn people that the airplane is powered up and to remind me if I left the master on. Whelan has a ground recognition light that does not meet anti collision light standards, but I have strobes and recog lights. So this or a real beacon? BTW, it is $300 versus $1600 for a lower beacon.

Considering the stated amp draw, there will be no issues with melt tip lenses. Even if they just produced heat and no light, there isn't enough energy to cause problems.

However, based on his user name, I am not sure he understands how to read. Said by someone who grew up in a USN household, NOT USNA, and I was USAF.

Wow, Cirrus is now making commuter aircraft. I did not know they were getting into that market.

Looks good. I am trying to decide which way to go on my 252. I talked to my FBO and they said they have done several Airtex interiors and are happy with them. Even if they do the work, it is about half what Aero Comfort costs.

Since the safety pilot/hood time, both log PIC is common, I assumed that the OP was planning on doing that. I try to get 1.5 - 2 hours under the hood each month, shooting a few approaches. Keeps the rust knocked down, gets the airplane in the air, and keeps me legally current.

The only thing I remember was it being part of NORDO procedure. If you lost radios you would proceed to the IAF of the most likely approach, hold at your cruising altitude, then let down and shoot the approach at either the last expect further clearance time or you ETA.