Pinecone

I think that Mooneys and M3s go together better. Both have a reasonable back seat and luggage (trunk) space. The 911 has neither.

Which is why I post pictures. I have a JPI 830 and the stock TIT setup. A while ago I noticed that for the same power setting, the factory TIT was reading lower and lower. But the JPI was about the same as always. So I had my shop replace the TIT probe and suddenly, the JPI and factory guage are very close. The failure mode of the TIT probe is to read lower than actual.

In installed the ones from Alpha Aviation in my 252.

Which one did you install? @hubcap

Dumping more fuel is not the answer, unless you are not supplying enough fuel in the first place. The rule of thumb I have heard is for max power, you want to be over 1 GPH per 10 HP. The fuel flows in the maintenance manuals are MINIMUMS, not maximums.

I am trying to recall the price I was quoted to upgrade my 1000 Pro to the 2000 Pro Max. I was thinking it was about $15K with the Aspen Oshkosh pricing.

Sounds like a good project for the down time would be to install nut plates for the battery box bolts.

Without going back over the thread, how long did the prop sit? We noticed a bit of streaking on the back of one blade during my transition training. Wiped it off before flying home, and haven't seen it come back in over 100 hours.

Actually they typically are not random. If you are braking near the limit, when the flat spot rotates to be in contact with the pavement, it takes more force to rotate the flat spot away. So the tire will tend to lock and make the flat spot bigger. If the flat spot gets big enough (newer tire), it can thump when taxiing, but I am not sure you will notice. As long as there are no cords showing, the tire is usable.

The only minor reason I can see right now is, if you have other warnings routed through the audio panel. I have my Landing Height System wired through the audio panel. So, if I had to turn off the Avionics Master (not sure why, since each thing has a CB), I would lose the audio from it.

I will join the chorus and say I maintain my CHTs below 380. And I keep my TIT below 1600, preferably lower. I run LOP. LOP will NOT harm your cylinders. If anything, it helps their life. I also run below 65% power, typically cruising at about 10 GPH which is 62%% on my -SB. A few minutes are cheaper than cylinders. A couple of months ago, this translated to 175 KTAS at 17K, 7 hours Denver to NE MD non-stop on about 80 gallons.

I understand why you want to recirculate, but it seems very inefficient to blow most of the hot air over the top of the engine and not at the bottom up. I would put the supply hose into the bottom of the cowl and the suiction hose in the cowl opening, blocking the other opening. This way the hot air would heat the oil faster and the cylinders more evenly.

Not sure how it pressurizes the cowl with it sucking the same amount of air it is blowing.

Do you have a Pro or a Pro Max? There are differences. Aspen had some really good prices for trade in around Oshkosh. I have a 1000 Pro and considered going to a 2000 Pro Max. My avionics shop contacted Aspen and they would honor the Oskosh price for a while. I decided to go Garmin as I am having some autopilot issues, so plan on a GFC-500 and it needs Garmin stuff to drive it.

I don't quite get the Alien deal. They blow hot air into one air inlet and suck it out of the other one. That means the hot air just flows over the top of the engine, None down through the cooling fins (or at least not a lot). It seems it would be better to blow in into the under the engine and such it out above the engine.

Too bad you cannot come up with a killer deal so that most people would stay in the same hotel. Makes for easier socializing in the evening.

IMO, you would be OK with the 7" and the 750 for the map. Or, as was mentioned a 10" and a 650. The advantage to the 10" now is, you can do the 750 later and have the best of both worlds.

I resemble that comment.

Yes, but sometimes the hit in speed and climb is worth it. It is nice to have the flexibility.

We had the same car. Mine was a 76 SR-5 also. I had carb issues. Engine fuel pump failed. Muffler issue (rusted closed). Blown exhaust gaskets. Dash plastic splitting in several places. Burned exhaust valves. One of the trans bearings wore out. I think I put about 150K on it.

Just because you have a higher UL to a higher GW, doesn't mean you have to load to it. I seldom fill my tanks (252 with Monroy) but I was VERY happy to have them, and the GW capability (Encore upgraded so 1119 UL), when I stopped at KEYF and fuel was $4.85 a gallon.

When I was flying a lot in IO-550 T-34s with short times between formation flights for practice, we all just did the flooded start. Prime Throttle - Full Mixture - Idle Cut Off Crank until it fires, throttle almost closed, then mixture full rich. Worked every time.

I wrote any article for Mooney Flyer on calibrating dipsticks for my 252 with Monroy tanks. I used 5x 5 gallons jug. I ran one tank to engine sputtering. I filled the 5 jugs, then poured one into the tank, as I knew it would not be measurable. Then I poured 1/2 of a jug into the now empty one, so I added that and have 7.5 gallons. Then the other left over 1/2 jug for 10 gallons. Repeat. In my plane, I was able to put 55 gallons in that tank, versus the official 52. And may have been able to squeeze in maybe 1 more. After each addition, I waited 5 minutes for the fuel to settle between the two tanks. I got my jugs from Amazon, I got the Jeg's ones in white/clear. And I got one spout for pouring.

Cruiserflyer is giving a ride to where ever.

Japan. Back then they were not making cars in the US yet.