Pinecone

A bunch of different choices in FL. I have heard over the years that Jack Brown gets people in with the low price in the Cub, but many end up upgrading to the 172. I did my Private ASES in Maine in a 172. If I ever decide to do my Comm (nice vaca and counts as Flight Review), I will do it in a Maule or 185 on floats.

T-38 wingspan is a whopping 25 feet. And remember, it held the time to climb record for a while. OVER the -104. F-104 set time to climb records in 1958 and 1959. To 12,000 meters, it set the record of 99.9 seconds. In 1962, the T-38 set the record to 12,000 meters at 95.610 seconds. Both aircraft set the records to 3000, 6000, and 9000 meters at the same time. F-4 broke the record in early 1962 with a 77.156 second climb to 12,000 meters. This was next broken by the Mig-25. Next US record was the F-15 in 1975 with a time of 59.38 seconds to 12,000 meters/

Yeah, I noticed. They used to have the price, but the link to price and booking is broken. I seem to recall 15AMU or so. Not a -104, but I got to fly the L-39, Su-25, and Mig-29 in Ukraine many years ago.

Yes, I have had one of these for decades and it works well. I even have a HeathKit one I built in the 60s that still works.

There were resin infused cardboard. Like fiberglass, just instead of glass cloth, it was like pressed cardboard, like you used to get with new shirts. One of the issues with them is, like wind turbine blades, you can't get rid of them. They don't degrade, they pollute tremedously if you try to burn them. FYI, in Berlin, you can do a Trabant tour where each couple gets their own to drive and there is a lead car, and you tour the sights in a Trabbie.

The nice thing about a round altitmeter is that you are normally cruising with the big hand straight up or straight down. EASY to determine at a glance.

If one sender seems to be showing empty, it may be a grounding issue. If the guage reads some middle level until you burn down to around that level, then reads normally, it could be that the inboard sender goes to ground instead of to the outboard one. The inboard sender has insulating washers to isolate it from ground. You could check this with full tanks to check the resistance on the outboard sender. IIRC, at full, it should read 30 ohms.

https://www.starfighters.net/ Go to FL and FLY a -104

SEM paint is the one typically used for aircraft interiors.

First thing is to check the tach to see what the actual RPM is. Best would be an optical tach. You can pick up one for model airplanes pretty cheap. There are also smart phone apps.

I had an issue with my 252 with losing about a quart an hour. In my case, after flight it was dripping off the tail tie down. Shop on my field, based on a similar issue, flushed the air/oil separator and the hose from the left front to the right rear where the separator is located. Whatever, it solved the issue. I have also heard of the issue that hubcap mentioned

Agreed, BT, DT. You get the best you can get, but it won't be what YOU exactly want.

Back in the early 80s, the F-101 ANG unit in Houstan had a sonic boom incident. TAC HQ sent a blistering message down requesting them to explain. The explanation was a faulty MACH meter. So TAC HQ told the until to remove the offending unit and send it to them for testing. Hmm, you tell an ANG crew chief (probasbly an E8) that the "defecive" MACH meter needs to be removed and sent for higher HQ testing. And SURPRISE, it was faulty.

It should Easy to test, put some in a jar with ABS chips, wait overnight and stir or shake. If the chips are intact, it doesn't work, if you have a liquid/paste, it works. References I have seen say that ABS is soluble in ethyl acetate (MEK substitute). That said, real MEK is still available, but maybe not through home box stores. But you would also use Acetone, which should still be available.

It would seem that some smart company would design a voltage regulator that automatically adjust output voltage to temperature.

There was a report of someone with issues with one tail cone mounted. It was something they stored on the hat shelf. Moving it to the floor of the baggage area solved the issue. They are VERY sensitive. I would put it out in the wing.

I put in a JPI 830 last year, knowing I was going to full Garmin glass in a couple of years (it turns out it wil be sooner), and I am happy I did as it gives me so much more info, and the data logging. My comment would be, if you are thinking about moving to a 252, just do it. You will be SO MUCH happier.

Since the G-5 battery life is over 4 hours, I don't think managing the remaining time of attitude info is that big of a deal. How much fuel do you have??? If you put in 275s, it becomes a bigger issue, as they are only 30 minutes of back up battery.

This is what I was thinking. But being belt and suspenders type for aviation, I would leave the T&B in the panel, visible, if you keep it for the autopilot. Why take away one additional attitude source if it is actually installed? One other thing, sit in the plane and mark the centerline of YOU, the pilot. In my plane, my centerline is to the right of the yoke centerline. I want my primary attitude indicator to be centered on ME.

I just saw an article that stated that the desulphurization of diesel fuel for ships may be reducing the cooling effect from their sulphur emissions. Unintended consequences.

A number of people have bumped into hard clouds. Commonly call cumulogranite clouds. It is normally a VERY bad thing.

Take out 5 airplanes and 1 million in insurance may not be enough. And if limited to 100,000 per claim, there will be additional attempts at recovery. But again, the best thing is to be properly insured for YOUR airplane and let your insurance deal with going after the other person and their insurance and other assets.

For mine, I am paying an interior shop to repair and paint them. Along with new carpet, redo the seats, etc.

That is NOT what your Battery Minder its telling you. The light next to the icon showing 1/2 battery level is just telling you what mode it is charging. Page 10 - https://www.batteryminders.com/content/BATTERY MINDR CEC2 GUIDE_ (003).pdf It will show that for a short while even if the battery is fully charged. It does into Constant Current (Bulk) mode and monitors the battery response. Then it may switch to Constant Voltage (Absorbtion) mode in a short period of time. Only the Red and the Full sort of indicate the actual state of charge.

You are sounding like a 5 year old. I didn't do it. It wasn't me. It is not my fault. Great way to start in a new community.