PT20J

Don't take out the screws -- just loosen them and rotate the mechanism. Dan Long at West Coast Governor Service warned me not to take them completely out as there is a spring in there that will unseat the mechanism inside.

Until recently, GI 275 had severe limitations when used as standby for the G3X, but I believe that Garmin has finally fixed that. Still, I would carefully review the current G3X installation manual with your dealer to compare the G5 and GI 275 capabilities as a G3X standby (the manual is dealer only, but they can go over it with you, they just can’t give you a copy). That said, I would still chose the G5. While the GI 275 has a better display, it has shorter backup battery run time. The G5 display is entirely adequate and I never look at it when the G3X is operational. Also, the G5 costs less. Skip

McCauley hubs are permanently lubricated, unlike Hartzell props which require annual greasing. McCauley hubs are either lubricated with grease during assembly or partially filled with red dyed oil. The red dye is for crack detection. I believe that the 2 blade hubs used on Mooney's are greased.

In two mag installations, a jumper on the ignition switch grounds out the right mag during starting so that only the left mag fires because the left mag has the impulse coupling and is retarded for starting. The dual mag impulse coupling will operate both left and right mags, so Mooney SIM20-59A allows removal of the jumper so that both mags can fire during starting. But, on a dual mag, if the impulse coupling is bad, neither mag will fire.

With the ignition off, you might slowly rotate the prop and listen for the click to make sure the impulse coupling is working.

It shouldn’t hunt like that. I’d check that the prop cable is secure at the governor to rule out vibration, but it’s likely a governor issue. I would discuss it with Dan Long at West Coast Governor Service.

How long since the governor has been overhauled?

Doesn’t surprise me. The MT prop has lower inertia than a metal prop, so its transient response is probably faster than the governor’s. So, when power is abruptly decreased, the governor commands low pitch. But the airspeed hasn’t changed so the prop is transiently driven overspeed. The governor is a little behind, but quickly catches up.

This is common. Excess grease on the blade bearings gets thrown out by centrifugal force. On mine, I saw some steaks on the faces (aft side of the blades). It came and went for probably 50 hours gradually decreasing until it finally quit. It depends on the temperature as the grease thins when it's hot.

The voltage regulators are usually mounted in the cabin, and most of the time we keep the temperature range within our narrow comfort zone.

Try the Mooney factory service center in Kerrville.

I believe Maxwell has done a LOT of repairs. It might be worth a trip to consult if you are on the fence. Houston Tank Specialists generally attends MooneyMAX. I've talked to them and they seem to know what they are doing but I don't have any actual pireps.

That's not unreasonable. My M20J drops out somewhere around there. Unless it has suddenly changed, I wouldn't worry about it.

OK, now I'm beginning to see why people are leaving the forum. Most of us stopped being fascinated with this sort of thing after high school.

The last post before yours has a picture of the manufacturer's invoice with the company name and address. Try contacting Aero-Techniques S.E.A. You could also contact a Mooney Service Center and see if Mooney has stock. Personally, when possible, I'm buying parts from Mooney even if they cost more because parts sales are the main source of income for the company.

Agree. They probably only show up on the manufacturing drawings and BOM. I’d email Mooney.

Crown at KPAE. There is a guy at KTTD. I’m traveling and his card is in my desk at home. Erin at Advanced Aviation would know.

Funny you should mention that. I spoke with Greg when his crew was replacing my nose gear and mentioned that owners that complain about the cost of maintenance should try some of these “simple” repairs themselves to see what’s involved. I used the indicator as an example and Greg laughed knowingly.

My experience with Garmin support is that unless it’s a question that can be answered by reference to the manual they just send you to the dealer. To be fair, it’s hard to troubleshoot remotely especially an intermittent. I doubt it is a connector as Garmin uses high quality connectors unlike older King stuff that used edge connectors. Are the two G5s identical except for one being configured at a HSI and one as a PFD? If so, I would try swapping the G5s to see if it is an intermittent issue with the PFD G5. The G5s do some data logging. I’m not sure what all they capture, but you might put a SD card in and turn on the logging in case it captures something helpful. Skip

I just went through that same thing. Royal PITA. There are diagrams in the IPC, but they aren't detailed enough to be very helpful. The cable from the flaps runs up from below the console and the end is glued into a hole in the bottom of the round clear shaft that is the indicator. The shaft runs in a channel in the body of the flap and trim indicator. In my case, it was the cowl flap indicator that broke, but the design is the same. The problem is that the shaft didn't line up that well with the channel and the sideways flex eventually broke it off. When they break, they fall down between the front of the console and the nose wheel well. To fix this, I had to drill the pop rivets out of the right console side panel, remove all the screws from the console front and the controls on the front of the console so that I could pull the console forward to get access. The flap and trim indicators are fastened to the the console front, so you'll have to remove the entire indicator assembly to get access. Then you can find the broken shaft and glue it back on with acrylic cement. Then you get to put the whole thing back together. Skip

So, there are two mysteries here: 1. How did the trim get full down? Normally during slowing and configuring for an approach the autopilot should be trimming nose up. 2. What was preventing the trim wheel from moving? It is well known that some autopilot trim servos have enough torque to cause the trim system to jam at the stops if the system has the old style jam nuts rather than the newer step stops. So, one scenario that might explain this is that there was a trim runaway that caused the trim to run down to the stop and it jammed. On a long body, the elevator system has a bob weight and down spring and elevator goes full down when there is no air load. Perhaps this relieved some tension in the trim system after landing and allowed it to free up. It's impossible to tell without investigation, but if this were my airplane, I would check that the trim stops are stepped and verify that they cannot jam, and I would inspect the entire trim system for any wear and make certain it is properly lubricated. And, I would be wary of the autopilot and watch for any unexpected trim wheel movement. Skip

Here's a picture of a IO-360 cylinder. Pretend that you are looking down on your #3 cylinder from above and in front of the engine. The top of the picture is the back side of the engine. If you look carefully at the cylinder head casting, you'll notice that there is no space for air to flow from the top of the engine to the bottom of the engine on the back side of the engine around cylinder #3. This will be obvious if you look at your engine and shine a flashlight on the area. To increase airflow, some have separated the baffle from the cylinder head by inserting one or more washers as spacers between the head and the baffle. If I were going to do this, I would insert them at the screw that attaches the baffle to the head rather than just forcing them between the baffle and the head to insure that they cannot vibrate out. The usual caveats apply: Make sure that your instrumentation and baffle seals are correct before modifying things. The #3 cylinder has the factory gauge, and if you have a non-primary engine monitor, it will have to either have a spark plug gasket probe that generally reads about 40 deg F high, or a ring probe that goes under the factory bayonet that usually reads about 20 deg F low. If you have a spark plug gasket probe, it is easy to see how much it reads high by temporarily moving it to Cyl #1 and comparing it's reading to the bayonet probe in cyl #1. Skip

Chart from Concorde

If it was mechanically jammed, I don't think it was due to the stops. When I had the forward trim gearbox out of my airplane, I spent some time observing how the stepped stops work and I just can't see anyway they can jam. But, in the OP's case, his trim ended up full nose down. There is no way that it would get there if the autopilot didn't drive it there, and if it was a trim runaway, the servo might have been holding it against the stop. I'm not sure why it would clear after landing, though.

I agree with @N201MKTurbo. A careful inspection should be made underneath. Someone posted a picture a while back where the structure was cracked.