PT20J

There will be a drain hose connected to the bottom of the sump. If you run the boost pump for 30 seconds or so with mixture rich (engine stopped) you should see fuel draining from it. The sniffle has a check ball. If you blow on the drain tube it should close and if you suck it should open. (If it drains, you don't really need to do the suck test unless you really like the taste of gasoline ). This thing is a homemade Mooney part. When I put in the new engine I cleaned it but it never sealed perfectly. I doubt they seal perfectly when new.

Flightstream was the first Connext method Garmin created for wireless connectivity. The G3X has Bluetooth Connext and allows flight plan transfers without Flightstream. The G3X cannot perform wireless Nav database updates because that requires the wider bandwidth of WiFi which the G3X does not support. In my setup, I load databases from SD cards and connect the iPad to the G3X and GTX 345 via Bluetooth.

I don't have Flightstream. If you have Flightstream, I do not believe it will also transfer from the G3X. When transferring a flight plan from the iPad to the G3X, it will only go to the internal flight plan if the flight plan source is internal. If the flight plan source is external, the flight plan will go to the GTN.

With my G3X flight plan source set to external, I can transfer flight plans from iPad/ForeFlight to the GTN 650Xi. If you enter a flight plan in the GTN with the G3X flight plan source set to external, does the flight plan transfer to the G3X?

I had this happen once and just did a full shut down on the iPad and it worked again when I rebooted it. It's a good idea to do a full shut down and reboot on iPhones and iPads every so often as I've noticed strange behavior if they are not rebooted every so often.

I believe that the 430W has the same PBN capabilities as the GTN. Therefore I think you can include O2 (RNP 1) and S1 (RNP approach). I don't think B2 is necessary as I think that is used for oceanic routes and may require approval. For the equipment, G (GNSS), R (PBN), S (VOR, VHF Comm, ILS) are correct. I believe you should include B (LPV) and delete Y (8.33 kHz comm spacing).

The problem is that there is a gap between the ICAO definitions and the information the equipment manufacturers provide that makes it difficult to figure out what is correct for a particular installation. Currently, in the US it doesn’t seem to matter much. Someday though, it probably will. I think the hitch would be filing routes or procedures that require certain PBN capabilities. Without the corresponding codes in the flight plan, the route might be rejected. Computers are good at checking details like that. According to ForeFlight, RNAV SID/STARS are currently rejected if you don’t include D2. Skip

Interesting NAV code. Not sure what it means. Does Per B refer to the LPV equipment code? D1 requires INS and DME-DME as well as GPS, I think. E2 is for ACARS data link and A1 requires a LOA according to the ForeFlight ICAO Filing Quick Reference.

Field 18 on the ICAO flight plan is populated by the Other Information field in ForeFlight. Z would be specified if you had some equipment for which there is not a predefined letter code and it would be described in field 18. This stuff is confusing. I’ve changed mine about a half a dozen times as I learned more. Currently for my GTN 650Xi, GTX 345 I have: FAA - G ICAO Equipment - B G R S ICAO Surveillance - B2 E ICAO PBN - B2 C2 D2 O2 S1 Other - CODE A3F7BD

Z is "other equipment" and you are supposed to specify what it is in field 18. I don't think you need that. Several sources, including Garmin support, list the correct surveillance codes for the GTX 345(D) as B2 E. I believe that the PBN codes are correct.

Y is 8.33 kHz spacing which I think is only used in Europe. According to Garmin, the surveillance codes for a GTX 345 are E B2 The PBN codes for the GTN are in the AFMS

That’s probably right. To be sure, you’d have to jack it up and clamp a bar across the rudder pedals and measure it with a travel board, but there’s enough slop in the linkages that 1 deg is probably a guesstimate anyway.

It could also be a problem with the excitation voltage. These transducers are designed in a bridge configuration and have four wires. Two wires have the calibrated excitation voltage (about 10Vdc) that comes from the gauge and the other two wires have the signal voltage (0 to 100mV) depending on the pressure that goes back to the gauge. The fuel pressure is easy to test without running the engine since you can use the boost pump to create pressure. if you remove the backshell from the CPC connector you can get DVM probes on the pins where the wires come out and measure the voltages.

They do each have BNC connectors and a short cable to a combiner, so you could try swapping them.

If by left and right you mean the blades on either side of the vertical stabilizer, they are two halves of the same antenna, not separate antennas. There should be a coax from the antenna to the panel and a splitter behind the panel somewhere to feed both radios from the antenna.

Hmmm. I believe that the nosewheel only swings 11 deg left and 13 deg right. (per SIM20-137). The Service Manual for my M20J calls for the rudder to be offset 1 deg right when the pedals are centered. The steering adjustment only describes where to adjust it, but it would seem that you would want the nosewheel centered when the pedals are centered so that it would track straight. Where did you get the 10 deg right figure?

A trick Don Maxwell does if the flaps still rub when adjusted to spec is to put the flaps down slightly to open the gap and then place a thin piece of wood on the flap nose and insert a stiff putty knife between the wood and the wing skin and gently flex the wing skin upward working slowly along the entire length of the flap The skins are thicker near the root so it takes more flexing, and the skins will spring back quite a bit, so it takes some experimenting. Just go slowly. It doesn't take much of a gap to clear the rivets.

Hard to tell about the flap gap without a picture, but I have seen several where the flaps are too tight and the rivet heads on the flaps are worn down because the rub the bottom of the wing skin.

It’s in the Service Manual. Also, here is the Lycoming service instruction including torque specs. SI1042AG Approved Spark Plugs.pdf

Replace it with a Sky-Tec. Lighter weight and spins faster. Mine is a 149NL.

That would take a lot of flooding as you'd have to fill a cylinder clearance volume. Sometimes what happens in a hung start is the Bendix drive doesn't retract and this causes there to be a ratcheting sound when the prop is turned by hand. If the prop won't turn by hand at all, something mechanical is amiss and needs to be investigated. If the engine or starter were jammed in some way, however, I would expect the starter CB to pop rather than a clicking sound from the starter solenoid which usually indicates a very weak battery. However, from the symptoms described, what likely happened is that the battery is old and weak and an unsuccessful hot start ran the battery down. Batteries sometimes recover enough to start if left a bit and it might start after the engine is cold and the battery has rested. Otherwise, use a start cart to get it going and replace the battery as soon as possible. Skip

The problem was with C-172 and C-175. After numerous SDRs for cracking tail components, Cessna issued a SB. The recommendation is not to push on the stabilizer anywhere to maneuver the airplane. If you absolutely have to move it by the tail, push on the tailcone bulkhead rivet line.

Ditch the shock mounts. They are there to protect the bearings in mechanical gyros. But electronic instruments with built AHRS don’t need them and they can sometime cause anomalous behavior.

Every cylinder on an IO-360 has a port for manifold pressure. Just unscrew the pipe plug from the #4 cylinder and attach the plumbing there.

The servo works the same way whether commanded by the autopilot or manually. Since it works with the autopilot, it sounds like an intermittent trim switch. Cleaning switches is usually a temporary solution because once the switch wears out, the contacts will oxidize again after cleaning. You probably need to replace the microswitches.