PT20J

The stall warning is continuous and the gear warning is intermittent even in the later models that have a tone generator and speaker rather than sonalerts.

How were yo able to remove them? Did they have retaining washers?

Every loose Skybolt pin I have had was also bent due to it being too short. YMMV.

I've had some pins come out of Skybolt 2700's too, but only if they were too short. Most of mine were too short after painting the belly panel and cowl (my painter painted the underside of the cowl and one-piece belly panel increasing the thickness. It should take very little torque to latch the stud if it is the proper length.

Think it's a PN3A or a KP3 (different manufacturers). Frank Crawford should be able to look it up.

The shaft from the throttle knob has a swaged connection to the flexible cable. The swage makes indentations every 90 degrees around the cable. Some people use one of the indentations as a notch for the switch. I’ve found it more reliable to have the switch roller hit the end of the shaft where it meets the cable as there is a larger jog here.

Here's all the info I have on the switch Airspeed safety switch.pdf 654-switch-veproducts-aerospace-low-pressure-switches-specs-sheet.pdf

NACA did a test on that measuring drag on a windmilling vs stopped prop in a wind tunnel many years ago and found the windmilling prop had significantly more drag as I recall. The idea behind a constant speed prop is to set the advance ratio of of the prop to the region of maximum efficiency - essentially maximum L/D ratio. When the pitch is very high, blade lift (thrust) decreases and drag increases.

There is a difference between drag on the blades which affects windmilling rpm and the drag on the airplane which affects glide ratio. It takes power to rotate the propeller. When the engine is not running, that power comes from decreasing the potential energy of the airplane at some rate. The faster the rotation, the greater the rate of altitude loss.

It looks to me that both FF and GP products do the same thing albeit with a different user interface approach. Both use official data. Both only display what you need for the approach criteria you have entered. Garmin chose to display in a format that looks like a decluttered approach plate. ForeFlight displays the same information on the map. Garmin stresses that their product is approved for part 91. ForeFlight has a lot of part 135 users and this is likely the reason for retaining the ability to display and compare the route and altitudes with the published chart. But you can remove the chart overlay if you don't want it. The FF product doesn't include missed approaches or SIDs/STARs, however. I run FF on an iPad mini on a yoke mount and usually display the approach chart on it. But, after setting up the GTN and entering the minimums into the G3X, I hardly ever look at it. What would really be nice is if Garmin would incorporate Smart Charts into the G3X. Skip

I fueled at KWVI last week. There are two self serve 100LL pumps and one G100UL pump. Four of us fueled while I was there -- no one used the G100UL pump.

FWIW, Don Maxwell told me that usually the pilot that stops the prop isn’t prepared for the decreased drag and is going too fast anyway fearful of stalling and ends up floating off the end of the runway and totaling the airplane.

This whole thread seems to be getting a little silly. Some obviously like to run their tanks dry and some don’t. Each to their own. Personally, I don’t see any great (actual, not theoretical) risk in doing so and I see no operational necessity to do so routinely.

I know what you meant, but so as not to confuse others, prop control pulled back gives low rpm and high pitch. It’s the drag from the high pitch that causes the low rpm.

You can hide the plate and everything you need to shoot the approach is on the map and profile view. If you don’t like the sidebar, you can hide it, too. It makes for a seamless transition from the enroute segment to the approach.

I just used the Garmin Checklist Editor https://www8.garmin.com/support/download_details.jsp?id=5075. It's a little clunky, but it works fine after you get used to it. Then, I put the resulting .ace file in the root directory of the SD card and it worked.

Take a lot of pictures. Have your IA log the 208 inspection. Be sure to check for rust behind the gussets on tube clusters. Reinforce all the holes where the plastic attaches with glass cloth and ABS cement. ABS cement can be made from melting plastic parts (some use Leggos) in MEK which is nice if you need a color. The cement from the hardware store for gluing ABS plumbing pipe also works well if black is OK. Paint everything when done with SEM Colorcoat. Phantom white is a good color choice. You can get SEM in rattle cans, or by the quart. There is a lot of plastic when you get it all out and so I bought the material and had a paint shop spray it which saved me a lot of time and mess. While you have the carpeted sidewalls out, take the wemac eyeball vents out of the pilot and copilot side and take them apart and clean them. Be mindful of screw lengths when you put it all back together - there are some places where too long a screw will poke through something you don't want it to poke through.

I'm sure of the hundreds of thousands of fuelings that happen each year that there are a few with water contamination. But, I'm not going to lose sleep over it. I remember when I was in Alaska I drove out to Lake Hood Strip to see the remains of an airplane that caught fire during a refueling from cans using a chamois. All that was left was aluminum ash on the ground in the shape of an airplane and a melted engine. I'm more afraid of fire than water. You cannot protect yourself against everything.

Filtering fuel through a chamois is an old bush pilot trick usually used with a large metal funnel when fueling from cans. Chamois passes gas but not water so it is a way to ensure that there is no water in the fuel that may have entered the can by condensation. It can also create static electricity and thus a fire hazard. Never use plastic funnel. If you are fueling from an airport fuel pump or truck the gas will be well filtered and water free.

The Garmin installation manual should list approved antennas.

I put a Seaton Maxpulse on my LED recognition lights. https://seatoneng.com/our-products/ It has more flashing modes than anyone would need, but the ability to stop the flashing easily has come in handy when trying to find a turn onto an unlighted taxiway. The WAT Prometheus 2 landing and taxi lights are plenty bright.

Strobes don’t get hot enough to melt the lens - at least on my 1994MSE that uses A610. @OSUAV8TER sells them.

I almost got to try it today going into Medford, but I was coming from the north and they were using runway 32 and I couldn’t talk them into the ILS 14 with a circle to land. Millionair at KMFR is great. They got me a great rate on the nearby Courtyard hotel and gave me a lift over here.

Here's the ForeFlight Dymanic Procedures video.

The first instance sounds like vapor. Js do get vapor in the fuel lines. Most of the time it doesn't cause a problem but LOP at high density altitude it can cause roughness. You can see it in the fuel pressure fluctuations if you have a digital engine monitor (the factory gauges seem to filter it out by accident or design). When I used to fly float Beavers Part 135 we only filled the rear tank for long flights and it was considered poor form to leave any gas in it for the next guy that might have a heavy load. So we would run it dry by watching the fuel pressure and when it started to drop you had a few seconds to switch to a tank with fuel. Once I got distracted by a radio call and I can tell you that pax HATE it when the engine quits. I know that Deakin advocated it, but I just don't see any reason to run a tank dry in flight. My CiES fuel senders are plenty accurate.