PT20J

Insurance cost comparisons are meaningless unless you state the insured hull value and the liability limit including whether it is “smooth” or has a sublimit.

General practice is that the ALT breaker size is determined by the wire size between the breaker and the alternator and the wire/breaker should carry more current than the alternator can put out. Thus, the ALT breaker can never trip with a good alternator. The ALT breaker is there to protect the wiring between the breaker and the alternator in case there is a short because the battery can supply much more current than the alternator.

Your GTP 59 temperature probe connects to the G5 ADAHRS. The G5 ADAHRS should output the temperature data on the CAN Bus to be shared with other units. IF the GI 275 is connected to the CAN Bus, it may be able to get the temperature data. It all depends on if Garmin has the software set up to do this with the GI 275 is configured as an EIS. I would discuss it with a Garmin Dealer that really understands this stuff (not all do). Additionally, the dealers have access to a field support team that is often more knowledgeable about special configurations than the customer-facing support team.

According to the IO-360 graph in the Operator’s Manual, an IO-360-A should burn a little over 15 gph at full power at best power mixture. It burns more during takeoff because it needs additional fuel for cooling. Mine burns a little over 18 gph.

Camloc prices have gone through the roof. A couple of things to note. First, stainless is softer than carbon steel and will deform more easily if the studs are too short. Second, if you look closely at the picture posted above, the pins appear bent slightly and the holes are elongated indicating that they were too tight. I had the same thing happen after painting and all of mine that had the pins come out were too tight.

According to my painter, aircraft polyurethane is more flexible and applied thicker than auto paint.

I think the only additive Lycoming approves is LW-16702 which is TPP.

I wonder what the real difference is between inexpensive products available to consumers and the more expensive products only sold to professionals and if the extra cost of professional application is really worth it. If the consumer products are easy to apply in a couple of hours and last a year, that seems pretty reasonable to me unless the paint is in bad shape and needs professional correction first.

Traditionally, Lycoming did not produce maintenance manuals and instead provided maintenance information in service letters, instructions, and bulletins. Recently, it has begun producing maintenance manuals for some engines. There does not appear to be a maintenance manual for a TIO-540 https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/attachments/SL-L114BJ_Technical_Publications.pdf.pdf

A couple of years ago, I noticed the compression on one cylinder on my Lycoming IO-360-A3B6 was trending downward on successive measurements from 78 to 74 to 68. I added Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel for a couple of tanks and the next time I checked the compression, it was 76. Might have been a coincidence. Recently, I had a cylinder drop out immediately after cold engine start. It happened again the next day. Maybe a valve beginning to stick? I added Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel for one tank full and haven't had the problem since. Again, it might have been a coincidence. A local mechanic swears that it makes a great ring flush. Supposedly a lot of DC-3 operators used it to prevent valve sticking in R-1830s back in the day. The mechanic at a museum where I used to volunteer told me that back when the FAA operated several DC-3s as flight check airplanes a mechanic that serviced them told him that it was used it in these planes for the same reason. Apparently they bought it it 55 gallon drums. What's in the stuff? I've attached the SDS. It's Petroleum distillates, hydrotreated light (solvent), Methyl salicylate (wintergreen fragrance), TCP, and two isomers of Dichlorobenzene. TCP is a known lead scavenger. Some searching shows that dichlorobenzene might soften carbon and varnish deposits. So, theoretically it might be beneficial. I don't know, but I'm curious what others have experienced. MM12R_50094_MM13R_50095_MM13RC_Marvel_Mystery_Oil_SDS_US_031424_FINAL.pdf

Plane Perfect makes a number of products. Which one are you referring to? https://planeperfect.us/collections/exterior

As I understand it, ceramic waxes use silica (SiO2) in place of carnauba. SiO2 is a component of ceramics and hence the marketing term "ceramic" for these waxes. There are probably varying qualities of this stuff and it will be difficult to tell the difference from the marketing hype.

Al Jesmer at Precision Airmotive has stated that the RSA fuel injection servo works fine with input fuel pressures in the range of 20-35 psi. I have heard that at one point Lycoming was shipping fuel pumps that exceeded the 30 psi limit that Mooney put in the airframe limitations. However, the rebuilt IO-360-A3B6 that I got from Lycoming in late 2018 does not have this issue, so if it was a problem, Lycoming seems to have corrected it.

Don’t forget that most autopilots have a limitation on the maximum fuel imbalance. It’s 15 gal. for my GFC 500.

It’s certainly easy to open the connector and look at it. However, the CPC connectors are high quality and Mooney uses the solid machined 4-way crimp pins. I had the Kulite fuel pressure transducer fail (read zero) and verified it with resistance measurements. The EDM uses a different transducer.

I wonder how hard it is in the dynamic counterweight bushings to abruptly go from high power to power off at cruise speed on an IO-360-A3B6(D)?

If it is working, I would not pay for an overhaul. The thing is really simple and the only things that can fail are the motor, clutch and micro switches. Just do the annual service and wait until something actually fails to send them in because Precise Flight won’t sell parts so you can’t fix it yourself.

Precise Flight charges a lot for overhaul so it is worth checking a few things before sending them in. These work pretty simply. There is a motor geared to one blade through a clutch. The motor drives the blade up and down. The other blade follows because there is a linkage that connects it to the driven blade. There are two microswitches operated by cams on the slave blade. One stops the motor when the blades are fully extended and the other stops the motor when the blades are fully retracted. The clutch is electrically energized to connect the motor to the driven blade when electrically extending or retracting the blades. When you pull the breaker, power is removed from the motor and the clutch and a spring causes the blades to retract. So, if they retract fully when power is removed, the spring is good. I would take the unit out of the airplane and look it over. See if anything is loose or binding. Without power, you should be able to move the blades freely without any binding. You can check the microswitches with an ohm meter to make sure that they operate at the appropriate blade positions.

When you changed the timing, did you change the left magneto to one with a reduced lag angle. If not, it will be firing late during start. Here is the Lycoming SI. It's no longer on Lycoming's website (Lycoming only posts the most commonly requested service literature) but is still available from Lycoming if you ask tech support. SI 1325 Timing Change for IO-360 Series Engines.pdf

One thing I have noticed about the Skybolt 2700s is that the beveled portion does not sit as flush as he Camlocs. This is true both on my fiberglass cowling and on the metal battery access door in the tail cone.

If you remove the stall warning assembly, given that it is difficult to remove, I would replace the microswitch rather than spray it with contact cleaner. Electronic switches have contacts plated with gold or silver to reduce oxidation and they open and close with a wiping action to remove any oxidation that may occur. Eventually, the plating wears through and the base metal will be exposed and oxidize. Spraying with contact cleaner (if you can get any to the contacts -- most of these switches are sealed pretty well to prevent contamination) may temporarily remove the oxidation, but it will come back eventually. I have a zero tolerance for failed electrical components -- if it fails once, I replace it. Also, be sure to mark the position of the switch unit before removing it so you don't have to make a lot of test flights readjusting it.

Rejex is what my painter recommends. Easy to apply, once a year.

The stall warning is continuous and the gear warning is intermittent even in the later models that have a tone generator and speaker rather than sonalerts.

How were yo able to remove them? Did they have retaining washers?

Every loose Skybolt pin I have had was also bent due to it being too short. YMMV.