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ShuRugal

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Everything posted by ShuRugal

  1. I find that taking the time to punch them in to ForeFlight and my IFD manually helps to embed them in my memory. I've probably typed, printed, and tapped my checklists half a dozen times now.
  2. My manual can't even decide what the red-arc range actually IS. page 20 of the 1965 M20C manual states "it is recommended that the engine not be operated for cruise purposes within the range of 2150 to 2300 RPM", while while Page 39 declares "Red Arc - Narrow (No continuous operations in this range)" to be 2000 to 2250 RPM. Considering that the cruise data table gives values for 2300 RPM, i'm going to guess that page 20 is a publication error.
  3. I like anything between 8,000 and 11,000 in my c
  4. Um. You do remember from your pilot training that the airspeed indicator only shows true airspeed at sea level on a standard day, right? At 9500', your ASI is gonna be way below true. The numbers in the book are TAS, not IAS.
  5. I don't have an E POH handy, what's it say about fuel burn rate at the power settings you were using?
  6. That's my read. As long as the screws are not structural, part of control surfaces, or part of controls, there's nothing saying owner pilot can't replace them (provided the plane is only used for part 91 flights)
  7. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/14/appendix-A_to_part_43 EDIT: why is this website so freaking unusable? can i please have a plain-text edit mode? having two separate quotation blocks in one post should NOT cause the thing to freak out like this....
  8. I'll happily recommend the the SkyTech starter. 10lbs lighter, and spins twice as fast for easier starts.
  9. kewl, will follow that one as well. in the meantime - the type cert and the skin-section drawings from the maintenance manual are helping:
  10. Does anyone know where I could get my hands on a set of technical drawings for a C-model? Or any of the short-body Moonies? I'm trying to draft up a 3-D printable model kit with scale/accurate internal components. I know that I could just reverse-engineer it from my bird, but there must be a digital scan of blueprints floating around somewhere...
  11. Difference torque specs being referenced? Confirmation bias?
  12. Because when it was designed, it was believed to do that job.
  13. http://hillcountryengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Split-Lockwashers-Separating-Myth-from-Truth.pdf
  14. Well, magnetos do contain permanent magnets. I don't know if they are affixed with threaded farstners, though.
  15. @orionflt turned me on to 3M Fire Barrier moldable putty to seal that up with. Previous owner had used silicone and cling film to do it, and that was a messy PITA. The putty is great. It's re-enterable and doesn't grab on with so much force that it could damage the panel. Really sticky to get on your hands, but super easy to work with and makes a great seal.
  16. If you found that under a motorcycle, I'd say it was the knob off an idle-stop screw.
  17. If I had to hazard a guess: when the Surefly is running timing advance, you're extracting optimum power from the working gas before the exhaust valve opens. When you switch to the fixed timing mag, you are no longer running as much advance, as well as running a colder spark. Both of these things result in your mixture starting to burn later, meaning that there is less time to extract power from the working gas before the exhaust valve opens. With your mixture settings tuned based off where peak EGT occurs when the Surefly is running, it doesn't surprise me at all to see a huge rise in EGT when you go to the mag. Going single-mag should always increase EGT. Going from Surefly with the advance running to single mag will be a greater difference. The real important question here is: what are your cylinder temperatures doing during all of this? EDIT: got the savvy thing to work, looks like you didn't leave it in mag only mode long enough to evaluate effect on CHT. Running rough on the mag and seeing the dramatic a jump in CHT makes me think you're getting very poor ignition from the mag only, at least while running LoP. Something else I noticed on the Savvy data: you have a lose CHT probe wire on the yellow trace (#2?) And the purple trace (#4?) is notably leaner than the other cylinders, which you can see by it having the highest EGT when RoP, and the lowest even LoP.
  18. the fact that the manual extension was engaged without you intending it to be is enough that I would check it out if it were my plane.
  19. Hmm, sounds like we need someone to get FAA PMA for a silicone-coated clunk.
  20. Looks like an opportunity to put a length of fuel line in so that it drains overboard instead of onto the exhaust tunnel.
  21. Wild guess at what the chugging sound is: inrush of steam to cylinder when the cutoff valve is set for full-stroke inlet while pulling off from a start? As the train speeds up and the wheels turn faster, the position moves quicker, so the duration starts as long gasping chugs, then progresses to shorter faster chirps as the valve timing is advanced? Completely guessing, here.
  22. Yes, I would expect it to be a similar style of switch, relocated to the gear linkage where the J-bar attaches. The conversion to electric was available for the C as a kit - there should be a service instruction for the kit which details where the switch goes. We also just had another MS member convert beck to J-bar from an electric gear - I don't recall who to link him, but the these was posted recently "Coronavirus Jbared me" or something similar.
  23. In the manual gear version, the gear warning horn is armed by a simple switch that detects the presence of the handle on the lock socket. The switch is adjustable in position, and very limited in throw - My IA had to adjust move at annual this year because it wasn't always closing when the handle was locked into the socket. I would very there is a similar condition going on with yours. Does anyone have a diagram showing the position of the gear alarm switch on the electric gear conversion?
  24. I don't mean to sound argumentative, but I did specify in my post that this was with landing trim applied - which for me usually works out to be half way between takeoff trim and full up. I've never landed with literal full up trim, there's way to much available. I've also never found go around practice to require any particularly memorable amount of push on the yoke to control attitude. I'll have to do some deliberate checking next time I'm up, but memory tells me that on a go around she wants to climb somewhere between Vx and Vy... That's fair, but it is making me scratch my head and wonder what must be wrong with the way I do landings. I have experienced what you are describing at *half* flaps and excessive nose up trim, when I was first leaning how everything likes to be set on mine. I've also experienced it by sucking the flaps in all the way instead of in stages on a go around (thought the yoke on that one was gonna shove me into the beck seat).
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