ShuRugal

Yes, the hot air dump should close when cabin heat is applied. There's also one for carb heat. If either of those are missing, I expect you wouldn't get much action on either cabin heat or carb heat. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Work the valve a few times between full open and closed, sometimes particles get jammed in the stem too tight for rinsing action to be enough. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

+1 for particles in the drain preventing a seal. Hey a GATS jar and open the valve wide to flush out anything sticking on the sealing surfaces. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

If you don't send them out to be sputter coated in your favorite precious metal, do you even airplane? Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

you're going to need to get the plane weighed. You can't use the factory W&B from a different bird and recompute from there, every one of these birds left the factory with different weight and CG. Also, if you can't trust the current numbers, what makes you think you can trust the Mx log entries for equipment added/removed over the years to recompute from factory numbers to the current correct numbers?

Send me your spare pair, CiES senders are next on my list Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

That's the waste valve from carb heater, hot air flows out when carb heat not in use Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

>Only thing I can think of is I'm not keeping enough right rudder in, but I kind of doubt that personally. Any ideas? What's the ball say? If the ball is centered, but you still drift, you aren't correcting for wind enough. Straight and level hands off is a good start, what do you cruise speeds look like vs the book? Pick a density altitude that matches one of the tables in the book, set power and mixture per the table, and let the speed stabilize over ~10 minutes, then math it out. If you're close to the book speed for your altitude and power, your rigging is correct. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

How old is it? "Failed on its on" is the most common mode for high power electrolyte caps, they used to come in sockets on amplifiers for that reason. Exposing them to hot/cold weather variations adds to the mortality rate. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Replace the cap? Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

My C will only go LoP if i'm running less than 2,000 RPM. I can get 10-20 degrees LoP there if i really want to. I can get TO peak at 65% power just fine, though, so that's usually how I cruise. Since I got the EDM-900, i've actually been playing more with high-power cruise settings, since I now have much better data to know where the engine is with respect to its limits. highly recommend watching Mike Busch's webinars with the EAA on Youtube. He's got a treasure trove of data obtained in test cells using modern testing equipment and sensors. https://resources.savvyaviation.com/wp-content/uploads/articles_eaa/EAA_2012-12_red-box-red-fin.pdf

Second layout, with following changes: TACH and Fuel/Manifold pressure - move to copilot panel, as far left as they can go against the radio stack CDI - move to pilot panel to the right of altimeter digital engine gauge - pilot panel, bottom right corner analog EGT - pilot panel, top right corner This will leave you with enough real estate to mount an iPad on the copilot panel for ForeFlight (or whatever) You can see my ipad mount here clears the round holes where my Tach/man/fuel instruments were before going to EDM900 earlier this year:

Yes, Spruce has some. They also have LED indicator fixtures which are more or less identical to the existing iris-dimmed indicators, but have non-removable bulbs, but I didn't see the point of going for those. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

That sounds like your stall horn circuit is bypassing the master relay and powering your plane? Get an electrician to look at that, crossed circuits and faulty grounds are no joke... Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Can you elaborate more on that? What's the sequence of events from "master switch off" to "everything de-energized"? Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

You'd think so, but this guy did it with the bar. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

I know an IA who had a Mooney he was under fall on him when he said "put the flaps down" and the fella in the cockpit pulled the wrong bar, so it's definitely possible. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

That switch should have 12 on it. In one position, it feeds that voltage to the "gear down" light, and in the other it feeds the "gear not down" light, as well as sending power the throttle switch for the "your great isn't down, dummy" horn. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

$295 for a 40' T-hangar with powered door, lights, and receptacles. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

That empty weight is not bad, only 40 lbs heavier than mine. The CG envelope on a C is 42-49 inches. 45.5 is acceptable (mine is 43.8), you'd still have to work to get it aft of limits (though it's definitely possible with heavy cargo and light pilots). Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Panel is ancient for that asking price. Lot of old heavy radio gear. What's the empty weight and CG look like? Is the 430 at least WAAS? Engine halfway through recommended overhaul... Has the current owner been having oil analysis performed? That data, if available, could help you estimate how much life is left in that engine. Electric gar and flaps is meh. I prefer the reliability and lower maintenance of manual, but it probably evens out in the wash either way. Does the wing leveler actually work? What shape are the vacuum servos in? That's a steep asking price for a C model, but not impossibly high if everything is in top shape. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

In that case, I'd definitely go with the Bondo. It's specifically designed to provide a durable and paintable surface. Personally, I'd be insisting the A&P make it right, but I don't know whether that's a fight worth fighting for you. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Plenty of planes flying around with Bondo filling bird dents. Should be fine for filling a small chip in a non structural component. Looks like a cosmetic repair to me, but I'm not an IA. Ask the A&P who was doing the balance and chipped it? Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

lol. I'm not buying a new plane just to take better pictures.

All three, yes. My my recent set (saturday) were taken using one of the pre-canned scenery modes, along with a CPL filter i just picked up to try and solve some problems with blue-washout in longer range shots. My airborne night shots are taken using full manual settings i've put into a few custom presets after lots of tinkering on the ground. I also have a couple Aperture and Shutter priority programs customized for day shooting. For day shooting, all of my non-panoramic pictures are shot using 7/1 exposure bracketing then composited in EasyHDR.