bob865

Does your engine/prop not have the "No continuous operation between xxxx and 2350" requirement? xxxx becuase I don't remember the lower limit. Does anyone know the reason behind this requirement? Obviously I wouldn't setup in cruise at 2300 for a long xc, but does a low power decent at 2300 for 5 minutes in an approach pose any risk?

I wonder if it's in the same bay or nearby the temp probe. On my plane the temp probe is mounted in the right wing about midway down. Similar location you seem to be describing. Between the GMU and the G5 correct? You didn't change the wiring on the light, right?

I need to ask a question....Is this 200% position error i.e. the direction needle swings? or 200% data transmission/communication error?

Wanted to throw this out there for anyone who is considering a skyBeacon. Make sure to check the transponder threshold with this procedure. I installed mine and all looked good. I assumed the squawk would come in when I got airborn and had a radar interrogation. It did, but the lag gave me a maximum consecutive failures for Mode 3A and flight ID. I made the changes per these direcions and now it picks it up almost immediately. Flew breifly to verify it's fixed on another report and it is working fine. Not more failures. I need to do my validation fight again so I can get my rebate. https://uavionix.com/support/skybeacon/mode-3a-failure-on-papr/

I just read this part of the post. How the unit is made and installed, the installation itself can't create a ground. You use a pair of o-rings under the mounting screws and the metal backplate of the skybeacon is isolated from the chassis with a rubber gasket so I don't see how it can work without a ground. You don't need to run a ground wire all the way back to the panel, but you need a way to tie it to the bare metal of the wing somewhere. Like I said in my last, if you have the power supplies in the wing tips, that's your perfect option. On another note, make sure to check the transponder threshold during your install. I didn't check it so it failed my first validation flight. I now have to go fly again to get my rebate. https://uavionix.com/support/skybeacon/mode-3a-failure-on-papr/

When I pulled off my old nav light, there was ground wire available. I did not create a ground. With that said, did your plane have the strobe power supply? There is a good solid ground there you can use. It will take pulling a wire back to the bay where the strobe light was mounted and to the wing tip. You should already be doing this get a 14/28v power line to the wing tip for the strobe.

Came for the Mooneys, left knowing about mouse chromosomes. Thanks MooneySpace!

FWIW, my wife falls asleed at 500 agl without fail. Doesn't matter if that 500mls or 5,000mls. She says the droning hum of the engine puts her to sleep. I spent a few days in Cusco at 11,152' back in October. It was interesting. I would find myself sitting idle and just start gasping for air like I had been running. I guess my normal breathing rate wasn't fast enough for the higher altitude. With some strain, fast walking, carrying my bags up stairs, etc, you could get light headed really quickly.

Just throwing out becuase I haven't seen it listed. I've been using Zulu Log since I finished my private. I copied all of my entries from my paper into the online version, but still have the paper for the old endorsements and signatures. All new signable items go into Zulu Log and it will hold a signature. zululog.com and they have an app too for android and apple.

I think I've told this story here, but I think which decision made says something about the owner too. My plane had a prop stike and had a full teardown inspection after and the owner flew for hundreds of hours before I bought it. Generally a safe pilot. When his health failed, he stopped flying. Never knew of the guy to take any chances flying either. Pretty well known around the airport. And I've had no issues since I've had it. However, another Mooney driver at the airport started talking with me one day. I had looked up his plane online and knew that it had been sold at salvage following a gear up landing. When I mentioned it, he was proud of the fact that didn't do all the "extra" work for the prop strike and only replaced the stuff required by the AD. Gave off the "Vibe" that anyone who would do whole teardown was a sucker. He was also proud that he didn't have hardly any damage and only repaired a couple of panels from the gear up. This guy then went on to almost have an incident on takeoff when he took off without sumping his tanks and got water into the engine and then actually had an incident when he departed the runway landing at Myrtle Beach.

Unless you wire them in parallel, then it's 15 ohms.

Scratch that, putting the plane into Wet_Wingologists to get the tanks sealed. No lunch for me.

Put in on my calendar. Hoepfully this rain will stop long enough to make it over.

Don't forget, I'm buying a skybeacon because I don't have modern GTN750 and integrated GTX33ES kinda money. My KT76A only has one indicator and it's an interrogation light and it's not going to flash until I'm airborne where RADAR can see me. I get more/better feedback on the wifi with the app off my skybeacon than I do on my installed transponder.

Right....Then you have a red light on the right wingtip when it should be green. The LED makes the light red, not a lens. The lenses are clear.

It has to go on the left wing tip. Flipping on the same side puts the position light facing rear instead of forward and swapping tips puts the wrong color on the wrong side. It has to be installed as designed. Even if a flip was done, the indicator is not at the tip and would still be concealed by the wing from the pilot's seat. I don't see confirming its operation to be that immensly critical. I liken it to the normal transponder. You have no way of knowing if it's actually working either. You can see power, you can see a light, but you cannot confirm if it's actually broadcasting/replying to an interrogation. However, if it's not working, ATC will let you know pretty quickly. My $.02 anyway.

"Just like a fast cherokee, huh?"

Yes. It will do anonymous mode. I cant answer the enclosed question though. If you need measurements or something to figure it out let me know and I can measure mine. But I think the measurements are in the manual also. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Got it! Thanks! In my mind, I'm was thinking the overly simplified schematics that you learn in school. Here is the line from the article: "Most governors also contain a high-pressure oil pump to boost engine oil pressure (which is typically around 50 PSI) up to the levels needed to control the prop (often around 200 PSI)." Something to throw about about hydraulics (pneumatics) and pressure. If you're not paying attention the force multipliers in those systems will get away from you quickly. For example, assuming the ram that is actuating the blades is only 3" in diameter (I obviously have no idea how big the ram is, but considering how big the spinner/hub is, 3" seems reasonable to me, or at least until I see one taken apart ). At 60psi, it is exerting a force of 423.9 lbs and at 90psi, it's 637.9lbs. Even at half the size the forces are 105.9 and 158.9 respectively. But to your point at 200psi it is 353.25lbs for a 1.5" diameter ram and 1,413lbs at 3". Just throwing it out becuase the factors in hydraulic systems can get away from you fast! A few PSI on one side can be massive on the other depending on the size of the components. This is true of the wings on your plane too. The pressure differences are small, but the small pressure over the surface area of the wing is able to develop enough lift to carry us skyward at max gross weight at close to 1000ft/mi. Obviously pressure is something I find intersting .

The governor is not a pump, only a valve (unless someone jumps in and educates me otherwise). It uses the engine oil pressure and regulates its flow to the prop. That's why you see a decrease in oil pressure when you see a sudden and drastic decrease in RPM. As RPM increases past its set point, oil from the engine is directed into the prop until the pitch increases and slows down to the set point at which point the governor closes the valve. The RPM Decreases past the set point, the valve opens and allows oil to flow from the prop (under spring pressure in the prop) back to the reservoir, decreasing pitch and increasing RPM.

Take a look under the wing about 1-2 ft inboard from the edge. There should be an inspection panel with 4 screws in the middle. The 4 screws are how the power supply mounts in the wing. If you have that on each wing tip you have the seperate power supplies. The power supply will have a single 12V+ wire connected and the chassis will be the ground/negative connected directly to the airframe. The output will be a 3 wire harness that will connect to the strobe tube on the wing tip.

Here ya go!!

Thanks for the info. Right now, I'm deferring until annual so this gives me some things to consider leading up to annual. 2019 is going to be expensive. Fuel Tanks strip and seal in Feb, Annual with prop governor and shock discs in April and somewhere in there I've got to figure out what to do about my dead KX170B comm 2.

So my prop governor has developed a slow leak at a seal and needs to be IRAN'd or overhauled. It will build up a small puddle of oil on the little shelf and then show up on the nose landing gear door. Talking with my A&P yesterday he indicated that getting the governor out of the plane takes pulling the engine or at least loosening some of the mounting bolts to give enough space to get it off. Does anyone have any insight on this? Maybe some pointers in the expanse we knows as MooneySpace to maybe make this task easier?

What I did was remove the power supply completely. My E model has a high voltage power supply in each wing for the strobes. I removed the power supply completely from the plane. I did put the screws and nuts back in place so I didn't have 4 holes in my wing and to re-secure the ground to the airframe. I cut the wires to the strobe bulb and used them to pull a new wire back into the bay where the power supply was located. Once the wire was in the bay, I cut the source power to the power supply and spliced it to my new wire and then I had a wire available at the wingtip that was switched 12V for the strobe. I didn't use the spices that came with the kit. I'm not a fan of that type. Below is a link to what I used. This is what we used on the F-18s and they are much nicer, in my opinion, than what comes with the kit. You slip the shrink tube over the wire then crimp the splice. Then you heat the tube to shrink. It has a heat activated glue inside so when shrinked properly(this takes some practice when shrinking with a lighter or torch) it makes a weather proof seal. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/splices11-04425.php