bob865

It is. I just sent you a PM.

Which Christmas?

This is what we did.

It may not be the vales at all. I had this issue with mine that was happening right around the time I did a reseal on the tanks for other leaks. When Edison in FL got into it he found the nut plates that hold the drain valve were severely corroded. Had them replaced as part of the reseal and haven't had an issue since.

Amen to that! I've got the mongo yokes which are magnesium. We had them painted by a buddy that does body work, but he didn't know the nuances of painting magnesium and they are already corroding and bubbling up under the paint again.

I may be late to the conversation, but I have a digital tach that was removed when we upgraded to the CGR-30s. Faster than a repair.

Look up Marine-Tex. I used this on fiberglass boat hull repairs, so repairing your fiberglass cowl is right in its wheelhouse. It's already white, so no touch-up paint needed either unless you wanted to.

Wow. I'm used to seeing swap-tronics for anything with a wire from maintainers here at work. I didn't realize it was bleeding over into the mechanical side of the world.

That's interesting. My E is not in the affected range of the service bulletin. But it does look like a good idea to implement it anyway.

So I made it to the airport yesterday and got a full debrief...finally. So hopefully I can fill in some blanks. Per the mechanic, they had put the flaps down when they were preparing the plane for inspection. They had stepped away to work on another plane when they heard the "thud" and the flaps fell all the way to the hard stop. When the looked, they found the rod end was no longer connected to the actuator. Since the rod end bearing couldn't rotate since it was bolted to the control horn, attention was directed to the actuator. Further inspection revealed a set screw hole in the side of the actuator missing said set screw. With the lost set screw it appears the actuator put enough back and forth torque on the rod end to loosen the jamb nut and allow it to turn. Screw replaced, rod end in place, all tightened, rigging checked, and tested. Obviously a system to keep an eye on for the foreseeable future. Thanks to Clarence for spotting the trim control. When we looked there is a plastic guide on the hole already for the wear plate. The line seen in the pictures is just some polish, not a cut. How a 40 yr old plastic ring is still in good shape is beyond me, but it was. For a couple other points that came up. I learned from this that the flaps are connected, so there is no possibility of asymmetric deployment which was my worry when I first heard. The flap actuator for the 75 is electric, not hydraulic. Since the failure was unexpected and not "before" a flap deployment, this still could have been a scary event. Sure a no flap landing is non-event. But what about a full flap landing that suddenly becomes a no-flap landing without any warning? That's NOT a non-event. Thanks to everyone for their feedback. Will keep my eyes on this and let everyone know if anything changes.

Touché. Is there any service info about the actuator itself? I'm digging but not finding anything.

Sorry guys, I'm working off cryptic info myself. Really wish I was there to take a look in person. From what I understand is the rod end you see being installed in the picture Clarence re-posted had backed out of the actuator. Seems to me, since the rod end is sandwiched in the control horn, the actuator has to be turning. I'm not familiar with how that is built, but to me it seems like a linear actuator shouldn't be turning. My partner on the plane is supposed to go down today and facetime me (I'm the technical one) so I can get a look at it and make sure what I'm telling you is right.

Hey guys. Curious if anyone has seen this before. My girl is in Annual this week. Unfortunately I'm not able to be there, but my partner on the plane called and said the mechanic found a loose Flap Control Rod during annual. He said that when they put the flaps down that it just "fell" out. Scary thought that I was one flap operation from something bad happening. Sorry I don't have much more info than this, but attached are the pictures I was sent. It seems odd to me that a rod end bearing could back out when it's held captive in a control horn. Has anyone seen anything like this before?

Look just like the oil leak I had when my prop governor started leaking. Same place and everything. There s a "shelf" in there that sits under the governor. it's either part of the landing gear strut or a foot well for the rudder pedals. That's were it would collect on mine and not drip down until enough had collected. Made it appear to be an intermittent leak.

When my ADI failed I went with the G5. The installation cost me $1700.00 and was no where near right. They spent hours searching for a static leak they created and I refused to pay for and other miscellaneous grievances during the install. I spent the next few years slowly correcting errors in the installation as I found them. This should have taken 1-2 days and they kept my plane for 2 weeks. G5 connected to hot side of breaker so it wasn't protected Pitot/Static system of the G5 (despite hours searching for a leak) was not calibrated Per the STC the G5 has to be on with the master switch. Ours was wired on the avionics bus. RS-232 was not properly configured on the G5 giving errors V Speeds were not configured on the G5 Just a word of caution. It should be between $1500 and $2000, but be wary of the low estimate. Our original estimate was for $800.

I've got one. Will send you a message.

Mine was done through Triad Aviation in NC last year. It was $29,375 for the overhaul. We also did a bunch of other stuff at the same time, cables, governor, lights, engine monitor, etc at the same time and all that labor in that block was around $9500 including the engine R&R. It took almost 6 months right at the beginning of the pandemic.