Boilermonkey

If annual is due in four months...do it now! $3500 for an annual on a vintage means that not much was found.... so what's waiting? Exhaust, pucks, mounts, mags, tank re-seal, .... if those things haven't been done in the past ten years....then they will come up soon and cost a lot of time and money. Don't rush...figure out what you've got for the price and what will come in the near future as a prevention...or like most things, when you are least expecting them. I've seen plenty of planes flying that had known and unknown problems, so I wouldn't weigh that fact .... if it went flying it wouldn't be for sale yet. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Andersonaircaft out of KAID is top notch. They've done work on our M20C that our normal A&P didnt have experience doing with Mooneys. Please don't do a pre-buy. Go ahead and do an Annual. In the long run it will save you money...go deep and find all the problems. Take the seats out, pull back the carpet to look at the fuel tank senders and seems. Take a looK under the back seat at the spar.....etc. Feel free to send me a message. Based out of KHFY. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I would install a cigarette lighter outlet. Usb voltages, amps, interfaces, etc. change too fast. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Clean the belly before you take the pannels off. Mark the spinner pieces before removing. Take pics of anything to you haven't done before, before you start Take pics of the engine and everything inside as a baseline going forward when you are looking at a leak, burn, need in a serial number, etc. Do corrosionX while you have the pannels off. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

My partners and I had carb ice THREE times THIS YEAR! Once at cruise (WOT), once on departure (WOT), and once on approach in IMC (without carb heat applied). We have changed a few things: 1) Always use carb heat on approach or in the pattern 2) Always leave carb heat on for more than a few seconds at run up. 3) If holding for release either use card heat or check it again. 4) Make sure you lean when carb heat is on to ensure smooth running engine and no fouling of the plugs 5) We overhauled the carb, since it was way overdue and might be contrbuting to the problem. 6) We added a carb temp gauge so we know what is really happening. (and we'll adjust the items above as needed based on the carb temp) 7) Just because the carb temp is in the "ice zone" doesn't mean that it will ice...there must be moisture...so we'll be learning because we don't want to have carb heat on all the time.

It would be great if the data could also tell us what percentage of the fleet has engines with that amount of time....so we could get a percentage failure rate. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Get those leaks fixed. Wasted money and eventually a safety issue. I prefer to top off when I put the airplane away. It reduces the amount of air and possible water condensation that could enter the tanks when air cools. More importantly, I always tend to have more time when I land than when I am leaving. I usually want to get to the hangar, pre-flight and get going.

Sobering. Prayers to his family. https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/wiki.php?id=216594 Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Your right, but there are a lot of variables like the peak draw that may happen when you transmit. 1.5 to 2 hours would probably be safe. That being said, what you did was superb. Find the closest suitable airport and get down. Don't take new risks, but get down. If you have to ferry...figure that out in VFR. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Couldn't find the ATC. Do you remember what freq. you were on?

Count me in.

Well done, let us know the details so we can learn. Glad your wife kept cool too....or isolate the coms until your ready to talk ;-)

I'd do it, but I doubt there are three other similar pilots at KHFY....if there are let me know.

Lasar has most of them. I wonder if you can buy a complete kit somewhere?

Found one in salvage, hoping it is in as good condition as they say. We'll probably get a spare or new one in the near future. Some of the parts for our 1962 M20C are near impossible to find...otherwise there's going to be a lot of minor/major forms that we'll need to start filing.

does it dim with the original dimmer, or did you mod that too?

Lasar's out of stock. Any other ideas.

Pic Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

So, this happened on run-up today. Where can we (me & A&P) get the parts for repair? Or, do my A&P need to send it out for repair ;-(

I think it is time for you to move to Australia....those with kids will get it. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Given it is a new engine I would make sure the OH shop is involved in the process. The temp could be correct... ...and they may have different processes to diagnose. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I agree. Going to have the carb overhauled just in case there isn't something else going on. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I have heard that ever since I owned a Mooney and so I only used carb heat at run up. Big mistake....engine almost quit on me three times this year and each time carb heat resolved the issue. It's a roll of the dice. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

We've had carb ice three times this year. Once at cruise, one in an IFR approach, and once on departure. We hadn't been consistently using carb heat, but are now. It does require us to lean a bit otherwise it runs too rich. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Interested. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk