Boilermonkey

I believe the Garmin Virb Ultra 30 has an atmospheric altimeter. They have a different case for external and internal. The internal one has a hole in the case to allow the pressure to equalize.

I knew how the system worked at about 10hrs of training when the other student went in the weeds a long time back. Surprised it wasn't taught in the discovery flight ;-) We have hydraulic flaps and brakes. The parking brake was the first indicator, the mushy toe brakes the second. We put it back in the hangar and found the o ring before the whole system went down. The flaps worked fine, so there was clearly something left in the system.

Awhile back I learned an important lesson. In most GA aircraft the parking brake is not like a car's. It is not a separate linkage to engage the brakes, but a system that locks the pressure in the brake lines to keep the brakes engaged. Something they don't talk about in flight schools: you must have the brakes engaged before you set the parking brake!!! Otherwise, there's no pressure in the system to lock the brakes...hence students going off the run-up pad because they don't understand systems. I learned that lesson by studying the systems, but not before another student ran into the grass!!! Ok onto my lesson...I could not get the parking brake to work on our M20C. I thought it must be a valve or a linkage from the panel to the valve. The toe pedals engaged the brakes just fine...so what could be the problem? Then the toe pedals started to feel mushy, uh oh! Pop off the cowling to look and the brake reservoir is empty! The issue turned out there was a bad O-ring in one of the cylinders, so we were leaking fluid. We had enough to engage the brakes from the toe pedals, but not enough to keep the parking brake engaged. Moral of the story....if the parking brake won't engage...it is probably the first sign of a fluid issue...glad we found the issue and it was easy to fix.

The cowl flaps on our M20C don't close flush with the body of the airframe. They are not hitting anything, it actually looks like the linkages are adjusted intentionally for this. Is this common? Are they meant to close flush? Or are they intentionally left open a bit for airflow?

How do you know if the mounts are ready to be replaced? Any idea how many hours of labor for the job?

Everyone has been there.

It's the Garmin prop filter 010-12389-16

THANK YOU GARMIN. Starting to have some fun with the Virb that I won at AirVenture. The camera's altimeter is at times about 100ft off, but the picture is amazing. Win have to connect audio next! https://youtu.be/m0XoRCJ_XcU

OP here...I flew today and left the mixture leaned (with carb heat on) throughout the approach and landing. The result was a smooth running engine, so the assumptions about it being too rich at low power, carb heat on, full mixture was correct. I'll try this a few more times in these conditions.

I should have said, in the original post. The roughness starts when I go full rich on downwind in the pattern.

A new M20C operator/owner.... This is my first summer flying the M20C. Twice this month in 90deg OAT on approach the engine ran rough when I pulled the power back. Carb heat was ON during the decent, so it wasn't carb ice, I'm thinking that the mixture is too rich given the density altitude ~5000ft. What do you think? Should I lean it back just a bit to ensure that I don't flood or foul the engine? Any other ideas, should the carb be recalibrated?

If you operate from a dirt or grass field a three blade is a must. The additional prop clearance helps reduce picking up stones and FOD.

Better down than up though!

I've had it happen while training in an M20C where I didn't get the bar all the way to the floor and in the block. I use the same "thumbnail check" for the up and down position. I should not be able to put my thumbnail between the block and the collar of the bar.

To be clear, the 1962 POH only calls for carb heat in a decent or landing, whereas more modern advice from the FAA and community dictate carb heat in various humidity+temperature conditions. IMC (always has visible moisture), so do people use carb heat or not? I raise the question because of the ambiguity of the original POH and my recent flying experience being in a fuel injected airplane. Just looking for advice, not a debate ;-)

That's why I asked the question. If you look at the carb ice charts and guidelines....it says use carb heat in visible moisture between 32-50 deg. So, if you are in IMC (aka visible moisture) in that temp range, would use use carb heat as a precaution? ...you better look out for other icing too...

Have you been able to find an inside mount that will also be able to get a glimpse of the panel?

Key number 46...where have I seen that before Thanks for the guidance!

I read that flying with carb heat on at high power levels can be somewhat dangerous as it may cause detonation....so there's pros/cons to everything we do. After all the discussion and the lack of POH guidance I'm inclined to: 1) Use carb heat on approach and landing as required in the POH. 2) Use carb heat on decent if power settings are low. 3) Use carb heat in IMC occasionally to check for ice presence and as a safety measure, but not leave it on for prolonged periods. 4) Look at installing a carb temp gauge.

Has anyone found a good way to mount a 360 degree camera inside that can see the instruments and a good view outside?

Is there any need to use carb heat in IMC (visible moisture) if running at 65%-75% power (MPs above 20?). I'm guessing not, but I had read somewhere that people were using it in IMC, and I'm a bit paranoid as a friend had an off airport incident because he did not use carb heat while practicing slow flight w/o carb heat. His mistake, but it has me thinking. The M20C POH only states use during approach and landing...or if you experience carb ice symptoms. What do you do?

I've put togehter the attached ForeFlight checklist for a M20C. Feedback is welcome, I did not bother with emergency checklists...if I need them I;lol grab a card, not the iPad. N6529U.fmd

Similar to what I paid.

I recently bought into a Mooney partnership of a M20C. It has a single cylinder EGT/CHT gauge setup. I'm coming from a G1000 equipped C182 where we had all sorts of bells and whistles, so I apologize if this question is basic. The POH states to lean ROP by 100 degrees, however, do not lean above 75% HP. The performance tables show nearly all the RPM/MP settings that I would use cross country below 10K feet being above 75% HP. This is quite different than the C182 where the performance numbers were all 50 degrees ROP irregardless of power setting. So, do people lean above 75% power? If so, what's your rule of thumb (obviously keeping the CHTs below 400 is a good idea...) If you don't lean, what type of temps and fuel economy do you see? OR, an I missing something?