Boilermonkey

Looks really similar to the flap for carb heat on carburated models....makes me think that should be checked too!

Yeah, duh...whoops. The leaning is still the solution to the OP's issue.

With an actual altitude or density altitude that high you do not want to go full rich. Remember carb heat also enritchens the mixture too. I've had mine sputter and pop on final because of it. I have a digital egt and aim for 1250C. Or about an inch out on our mixture control. You'll want to research high altitude operations. For example how to lean for takeoff. If you knew that setting, that's what you would want to use in the pattern for landing. I'd also look to see the last time your carb was OH. A lot of people ignore it....don't! Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

There's a guide in the service manual to measure the amount of play between pucks/disks and if they are out of tolerance then replace them. While many may not do this, my rule of thumb is every 10yrs.

Even if I had a MSC do a pre-buy or annual I would still go see it. Fly commercial, or whatever, go take a look. An airplane is to much of a financial and emotional investment to not go and see it. For the same reason you'd never have a mail order bride. Prepare your negotiation tactics. It's fine to offer lower talking about the damage and I'll bet the seller is going to say they already considered that in the selling price. So, prepare your next level of argument. If the gear up landings happened over 100-150 tach hours ago then I would not be too concerned about them. I agree with your thoughts about the fuel tank reseal. I'd also look a the time since last gear donuts, mags OH, and carb OH. You'll also want the spar and body checked for corrosion...get pics.

I flew a few weeks ago and the wind chill was -20F, OAT was -10F. I preheated the engine and then gave the plane some extra time to heat up on the ground....mostly for the seals on the engine and prop to get warm. Inside wasn't hot it was probably 45-50F inside the cabin. We were dressed for cold weather ](long underwear, etc) because of the cold at pre-flight, post-flight and in case we had a forced landing. It wasn't that bad, you just need to dress for the weather and think ahead. Performance was incredible ;-P

5ft is a lot of leverage....I still put my bet on an FBO using a tug...that's what happened to me....but since it was caught at annual we couldn't prove which FBO...so out came the $$$$ from our pocket. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Some anti corrosion fluids are that color too. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I'm also working on my commercial in an M20C. I don't think you'll have a problem with anything, just practice. The Mooney is less forgiving if you are off speed on approach, but you need to be on your numbers anyway or you might get dinged. If you can't find the numbers the FAA has guidelines for various speeds...however here are the ones from my POH: Best Glide: 100MPH prop stopped, 105MPH windmilling Best Rate Climb: 105MPH (dropping to 90MPH at 10K density alt.) Best Angle of Climb: 80MPH Enroute Climb: 115-120MPH @25/25 VLE: 120MPH VF: 100MPH Normal landing (pg20 of POH): Downwind 100MPH, Base 90 HPH, Final 80 MPH Power off 180 is straight forward. Abeam the 1000ft markers on the runway, chop the power, pitch for glide, begin a smooth turn towards the runway, drop gear on base, flaps on final, and hold it off until you get to the markers.

I'd do all of this over the nice farm land of Indiana where if something goes wrong...you have plenty of choices to put it down safely. A good time to practice ground reference maneuvers. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Forget buying a plane, keep flying your friends Evolution and Citation I love our C model. A great IFR platform and good useful load for a 4 seater....keeping in mind you probably only have three people in it. $60K is a good target. You can get one for less, but you'll spend more after fixing and minor upgrades and still end up near $60K.

That's going to be a project airplane. It has not been flying and has been outside. I'm not suggesting that you don't buy it at the right price, but know what you are getting into. New engine, new interior, possible corrosion, likely new gear shock disks, avionics, paint, cowling mod, etc. I personally would not buy this as my first plane because I don't like dealing with all that stuff, but if you like mechanical projects you would get a chance to do it "your way."

Ours failed in Dec. At about 700hrs. It was bad, turned on the heat and it was like sucking on the exhaust...because I effectively was. If you zoom in you can see the crack. It was around the entire tube because I could move it by hand (slightly). 4 weeks later, good as new. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

You'll find plenty of Mooneys in that price range. - For those of you about my size, do you have any issues being comfortable in the cabin? I also like my rudder peddles really close to me, a trick I learned from flying twins. >I'm a bit larger and I am totally comfortable. - With a smaller engine and fairly simple design, how much does the maintenance cost typically run and what things should I be looking out for? >$4k-$6k per year. Some might say less, but in my experience with older airplanes this is the reality. Bigger items would be corrosion, leaking tanks, nose gear truss, engine, prop, avionics. - I really like the idea of the J-bar gear, what items with the gear should I look at to be replaced or require closer investigation? >I prefer the J-bar. It should be easy to swing up and down...anyone who says you need a lot of muscle to do it hasn't had their gear worked on in awhile. also make sure the shock disks are less than 10 years old. - Is the flaps run by an electric motor, and if so how reliable is it? >Depends on the year. Mine are manual hydraulic. - How well do the M20s do on grass fields? Something I would like to have the ability to do. >They were designed in the era where that was common, so they are designed for it. Just a question of pilotage. - I've seen the M20s have a wet wing but also recall that some have bladders. Does it depend on the model and year? >Yes, and aftermarket. - With the M20s being narrower in the engine compartment is there any over heating issues similar to the Grumman AA-5 line of aircraft? >No. But they scrape your hands when you work on them ;-) - Any books or places to go you guys would recommend for me to do more research? I've done a ton of research on the Bos and feel behind on the learning curve for the M20 series. >You found the right place.

Nope...three owners....lots of time. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Wow. We replace ours every other year if not every year. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

We had the same problem this year. Our G430W had just been overhauled for a different reason ($1000), so we replaced the cabling, connectors, and antenna. Works like a champ now. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

If you call Airparts of Lockhaven, at (800) 443-3117 and ask for a sender gasket, they have them for $7! Paul at Weep No More referred them to me and they worked perfect on our 1963 M20C. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

The carb heat boxes you sent links for look like the right part, but are worth no more than $100-$200 for that condition. We recently had the actuator arm break on our and I bought a used box for $60 on e-bay. I would have rather had a new box, but you'll need to go to a Mooney Service Center to get one installed form the factory (I think). Look through the logs. If the carb has not been serviced in the past 10 years, go ahead and have it overhauled while you have everything apart. We sent ours in and it was serviceable because it had so many SBs accumulated. The new carb made a huge difference in performance and smoothness of our engine. Covers and cowl plugs are relatively cheap, get a new one made.

Your lucky then...had three times last year. What are the odds. [emoji849] Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Autopilot off is near the end of my runup checklist and top of line up checklist. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Afirmative... just after lift off. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I've had a passenger's skirt get caught in the Johnson bar and it wouldn't lock down.

If annual is due in four months...do it now! $3500 for an annual on a vintage means that not much was found.... so what's waiting? Exhaust, pucks, mounts, mags, tank re-seal, .... if those things haven't been done in the past ten years....then they will come up soon and cost a lot of time and money. Don't rush...figure out what you've got for the price and what will come in the near future as a prevention...or like most things, when you are least expecting them. I've seen plenty of planes flying that had known and unknown problems, so I wouldn't weigh that fact .... if it went flying it wouldn't be for sale yet. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Andersonaircaft out of KAID is top notch. They've done work on our M20C that our normal A&P didnt have experience doing with Mooneys. Please don't do a pre-buy. Go ahead and do an Annual. In the long run it will save you money...go deep and find all the problems. Take the seats out, pull back the carpet to look at the fuel tank senders and seems. Take a looK under the back seat at the spar.....etc. Feel free to send me a message. Based out of KHFY. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk