milotron

Hi folks, The crazing in my windshield continues to get worse and I need to plan for a replacement. It has the 1/4" glass installed in 1995. Side window are 1/4" also, but are surprisingly fine. My current shop, who is fantastic, hasn't done one in 20 years. Any sense on what the labour hours should be? Is this disruptive or likely to cause collateral damage? It seems that most things I 'fix' these days end up causing several other things to be repaired or replaced due to the act of repairing the first item. I have tried the Novus 1,2,3 system, but without much effect. I am hesitant about trying anything more aggressive, but am open to suggestions... Thanks, iain

Emmet, if you are asking me, yes this is a 1981 231 but with the Mod Works 262 upgrades with the TSIO360MB engine from the 252 that has the dual 14V alternators. With this and the TKS it is fairly unusual.

I've got the split switch for both alternators. I have a m20K with the 262 upgrade; 14V system with two alternators. I recall someone saying that it is a Piper part. iain

Warren, do you still have the factory TIT gauge? How does it read in comparison to your 711?

My EDM 700 and factory gauge have the same relationship. That poor engine would not last long using the factory CHT and TIT gauges for monitoring! iain

Sigh...what is with the photo adder! iain

Two Cs. Might not be in your budget, but posted here now regardless.

There is one here in Victoria. I'll get some information from the poster board when I can. Plus you can visit Victoria where it is 22 degrees and sunny today! iain

Well, when I left these on and killed my battery, I discovered that these lights are 'supposed' to be wired after the 'fuel flow memory' switch on the right side of the panel. That switch, according to the wiring diagram, will isolate the overhead lights, the factory fuel flow meter and the factory clock. That was 40 or more years ago. Your current wiring reality may be very different.... iain

I was satisfied with the plastic solvent/welding repairs I did to mine. That and some heatgun work settled out the warps. Maybe some DIY on yours? Any pictures of the existing, or do you need a new one?

This. I had numerous issue with my KMA 24 with static and poor connection on everything but Com 1. After a bazllion button pushes and some contact cleaner, it works flawlessly now. i am finding issues like this still related to condensation in the aircraft storage from it's previous caretakers. iain

Ok. Update. JP I support confirmed it needed to have sensors plugged in for the last two cylinders. They were right. Got it back in the plane, all six cylinders and tit are back, plus I now have tit2 and CDT showing open sensors, as I don’t have those sponsors and never had them before. No settings to turn these on/off that I have found. Just ignore the warnings I guess. Serves me right for trying to make ‘good’, ‘better’. Iain

The case is exactly the same as when I sent it in, but it now has a properly functioning display, USB cable and fuel flow options added. And 2 less cylinders displaying! Same serial number 1976 from 1995! I think they put the wrong innards put back in there, or got a jumper or software upgrade wrong. I am not sure how they disable/enable the various options. iain

Hard to say. The option code is for a 6C, as was all of the JPI paperwork, work orders and the stuff that I filled out. Hopefully they do the right thing and step up to expedite it. I can still fly it, but feel like it is flying blind with only the OEM TIT and CHT gauges!

You bet I am! It does make me question their quality control if such a basic parameter wasn't observed or verified before leaving the repair bench. iain

I just missed them this afternoon. I expect that they will be paying for this, plus shipping back and forth, as it was a 6 cylinder unit when I sent it to them....clearly their mistake. iain

No joy...I think it is a hardware thing. Iain

Thanks, I'll check it out. The manual doesn't seem to provide for this unless it is an EDM 800. iain

Hey, I just got my EDM 700 back from JPI after repair of the display and adding FF and USB. I powered it up on the bench to program it and it is only acknowledging 4 cylinders plus the TIT. Does it automatically sense 6 cylinders or do I have to reprogram the number of cylinders? How does one do this as the manual doesn't seem to speak to this. Is this a hardware thing that I need to send it back for? thanks, iain

Airport off leash dogs are no different to off leash dogs on the street; they cause accidents from motorists and cyclists trying to avoid them with zero consequence to the (usually ) clueless owner of the dog.

I am not that famiiar with later Ks; are you sure it is 12V? serial number -1000 and higher is 28V. Not much to mess up on the Davtron. 2 wires, a sensor and no settings. iain

Did the mechanic remove the switch and meter it in all positions? Both the primer and pump switch run the same pump, but the primer also opens a solenoid feeding fuel in other priming nozzles. I suspect there is a diode or two in there to pr cent back feeding either circuit and running the primer corrected this. It sounds like there may be a short in the wiring somewhere rather than the boost switch; it is not expected for any switch to fail to the opposite position like this. iain

I just replaced my door panel with Plane Plastics parts. The only issue I had is the PP parts are a thicker plastic than the original so fitting took some effort to conform around the door. They are much more robust than the factory pieces. SEM paint for the win also. Fantastic product. I ended up plastic solvent welding with MEK for many of the pieces, including the glareshield. I had great results with this super inexpensive method. Just need some sacrificial plastic to dissolve in the MEK. There is a guy on ebay with a complete set of interior plastics from a J also. iain

There is a specific USB-serial adaptor that JPI recommends. It can be had through them or from Amazon and others. It is kind of a pain using this and the vintage software that it works with, but it gets the job done. Sure looks like an exhaust leak at the cylinder junction heating up the CHT so high. iain

BTW it looks like you have a data logging serial port for the JPI up and to the left from the display...or am I mistaken?