milotron

Thanks Marauder. That looks great! I am sticking with OEM type Plane plastics to replace the lower. Upper has some cracked screw holes. The rubber seal around the handle is riveted, sandwiched between the handle and door skin. Not a job for me to take on but will put on the list when I get to a paint job, along with replacing the windows. iain

That's was I was thinking too. I was wondering if something was missing. The backside of the interior panels were very dirty in that area with some evidence of moisture. iain

Hi, I am repairing/replacing the plastic interior panels on my door. Once apart, there is no insulation or seals around the latch. Is my door missing something? There are a couple of sound reduction pads, but not much else. Seems to me there should be more in there. There is a little corrosion on the control rods and I am going to sand/prime them before this goes back together. Using the melted plastic/MEK methods for repairing the cracks, along with SEM paint and getting good results. Thanks,

+1 on the 262, great value proposition, but I am biased. MB engine in this upgrade gets two alternators on the 14V system which is nice redundancy. As noted the only major downside is no Encore potential.

I dropped them a line and will post my findings.

Bubble from soap bubble test I presume? There are Powerflow exhausts for J and other models. Nothing for us turbo boys, that I am aware of. Likely would not help much, we already have no muffler.

My K had some exhaust welding in it's history also. Do you know where the leak is?

I will do so. Thanks,

I would be interested in these. Do they still exist?

Agreed. I will also volunteer to dispose of this defective product.

It sounds like the bigger concern is the change in conductivity that may cause capacitive level sensors to read incorrectly. Hopefully this is the extent of it and the quarantine can be lifted with recommendations or remediation of some kind. My Mooney has the old timey float/resistive type sensors.

I had this cal from my flying club today too. Something about low conductivity of the fuel. The fuel was from Edmonton refinery. i flew with it on the weekend and survived. Conductivity is a safety feature to prevent static build up during fuel transfer. Not sure of the solution yet.

Ahh, just noticed it was an R.

Do you have access covers for both sides of the fuselage avionics bay? I thought we only had them on the pilot side, but you have one a little farther back on the other side too.

There is no controller for the series 100 speed brakes, the earlier electric version. While not a manual, I can provide these schematics. It is all about the microswitches. iain 100 series speedbrake schematic.pdf

NIcely said. I have an intermittent issue with my pilot side SB, with the old microswitches. This has been ongoing throughout the planes history. It is excerbated at lower bus voltage so suspect it is one of the microswitches. I drown them in contact cleaner once in a while and it seems to keep hanging in there. If not, I just pull the breaker and it seems to come back to normal. It is part of the pre-flight to make sure they work, and know that I can expect them to be there. I have also come to be able to fly with only one out. A bit of a yaw, but entirely manageable.

Thanks. No room for big display without spending $$, otherwise I would be going to 730. Was speaking with them and pricing is still the same. Was out flying again today. Still mostly usable, and still head and shoulders over the stock CHT and TIT gauges. Working on getting a repair done soon. iain

Other number arrangements are worse. The leading '1' has an extra segment lit, as does the second to last digit, which is supposed to be a '1'. This has worked fine since I had it and came back looking like this. I don't think it would have been removed during annual. I will check the screws and see what it does. I do want the 830 ( or 730 ) but making the room is another $2500 on top of the upgrade costs. I

My EDM 700 display is showing extra segments since it came back from annual. Anything that I can do to service this in the field or is it going back to JPI for repair?

Great info, thanks Hendrik.

Paul, what remains from the King gyro and HSI system after the Aspen install? Anything left at all? Overall weight savings? iain

Hi Val, I am in Victoria. We can likely sort something out. I'll PM you. K is like a J with a turbo. Kind of. iain

@alan fox I have one of the small EVA-dry portable peltier dehumidifiers in the plane and they work great. I have a second, larger one in my garage and it ,mostly keeps up with the wet cars going in and out. Very low power consumption as they don;t use standard refrigeration type dehumidification. The small one in the plane is less than 20 watts I think, not sure of the large one. https://www.eva-dry.com/

Have you checked for wiring issues? From the drawings I have, it looks like a 3 wire resistive sensor. Maybe a grounded conductor or an open circuit somewhere, especially given that it is somewhat intermittent. iain

I have always taken the comments in the Bob Komer MAPA reviews for the 252 indicating that 2500 RPM was most efficient for the prop and intake system and tried to keep around that point. Logically, yes there is less windage losses, frictional losses, etc at lower RPM and that is evident in the fuel flows at different RPM for the same power setting. I'm going to give the 2200 RPM ranges a try. Certainly much quieter. If I can go LOP and run at 65% with the same airspeed, this would be the way to go. Somewhat on topic, but one of the guys at my flying club runs a Columbia 350/400 and can run around 2200 at way LOP and gets all the way from Victoria to Toronto without a fuel stop. ( east bound only of course ) 1800nm, and in the high teens, but impressive none the less. He is also an engineer and over analyzes things too, coming to similar conclusions as noted here. Good conversation!