vance.k

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About vance.k

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    KAEG
  • Reg #
    N231CK
  • Model
    1979 M20K 231
  1. 231 - AOG - Oil out the breather

    Hi everyone, Just wanted to follow up with the resolution. Went to the plane today with my mechanic and IA armed with the ideas above. Upon closer inspection, it was pretty clear that the breather hose was probably not well secured onto the o/a separator. The hose was extremely hard and the bulge for the barb was outside the clamp, and it was too short. Kind of seems like it was just butted up against the o/a and somehow finally became dislodged. I picked up the plane the very end of May and have flown about 140 hours before this happened. Hard to say why this time. We hadn't messed with the breather at any point. To answer some of the questions, no icing and there is an ice/whistle hole on the pipe pretty high up inside the cowl. We replaced the hose, cleaned it up and did a test flight, all good. Flew it home to abq without incident. Thanks again for the incredible support and ideas. Vance
  2. 231 - AOG - Oil out the breather

    Great feedback guys, thank you! I am starting to think along the same lines, that high pressure / ram air on top into the a/o could be the causal issue once the top breather hose fell off. I’m not 100%, but am extremely confident the oil on the belly is coming from the breather sticking out the bottom of the cowl flap. Inside the bottom cowl is clean and there was a good amount of oil dripping out of the tube end after shut down. The photos were not definitive, sorry, but I spent a good amount of time looking inside the cowl and it is clean in there. Thanks again! Vance
  3. Hello MSers; Flying from Denver to ABQ, just SE of Alamosa, burning smell in the cockpit. Immediate diversion to Alamosa. Puddle and oil all over the belly, coming from the breather. Also, the tube in front of the oil/air separator was off. I’m 1Q low from where I started in Denver. Did not notice anything amiss with the engine, normal temps, good oil pressure, power normal, etc. Mechanic is driving up tomorrow to take a look, but wanted to get advice from the group. My question is mostly, the hose that came off the separator, is that a cause or effect? Did it get blown off due to the crank being pressurized, or did it somehow fall off and cause the separator to not work correctly and start dumping oil? I’m assuming I lost a ring, but we’ll investigate tomorrow. Thanks for your help; Vance
  4. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    @CaptRJM, to clarify, did you use the Alcor calibration and test set to determine the ship gauge was inaccurate? I suspect the JPI 830 with a JPI probe is probably pretty well calibrated, where I have less confidence in the ship gauge. I've seen you can rent that Alcor test set, but I'm just curious how you determined yours was off. Thanks! Vance
  5. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    Thank you, sounds good! I'm going to focus on getting the correct probe and getting the ship gauge working and will worry about how to get the JPI happy after that. Thanks again! V--
  6. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    This is great info, thanks. If/when you get a chance, would you mind snapping and sending a photo of how that is done with one clamp? Really curious about that. Thanks again! Vance
  7. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    Yea, that was my first thought as well, but from what I've read, seems ok to parallel the TIT with ungrounded probes. I believe the ship CHT probe is grounded, so perhaps that is the difference? Also, the JPI tech said it was the correct way to do it, as well as there being installation and calibration instructions in the manual specifically for this use case, as well as this FAQ. https://www.jpinstruments.com/FAQ/tit-calibration/ The JPI tech did say the JPI probe isn't approved for being connected to the ship gauge. I did read somewhere that the Alcor probes are designed to produce more power to drive the ship gauge... I guess we'll find out. I'm curious how people with non-certified engine monitors are doing this? Are they installing a second TIT probe or paralleling the factory probe? Would this involve drilling a second hole and if so, I presume there are some specific location/distance requirements for that? Given the cost of that particular piece of pipe, I'd be pretty hesitant to let someone go drilling on it. But I am curious how others solve the problem short of upgrading to a certified engine monitor and eliminating the gauges. That is my end goal, but I'm just not ready to bite that bullet yet. I appreciate all input. Thanks! Vance
  8. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    Extremely helpful, thanks Dan! I need to confirm my pipe diameter, but that looks perfect. It is hard to believe those are almost $500. Pfft..airplanes.. ;-) Thanks again! Vance ps. Extra thanks for making a trip to the hangar and getting that part. Way above and beyond!
  9. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    That's good info Dan. Any chance you have the part number of the probe in use? Thanks!
  10. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    Appreciate the feedback. To clarify, it is absolutely my desire and intention to get the ship gauge working properly. The question is how? Is there a valid non-screw in type of probe that can be used? JPI said there's isn't it. There's no place for a screw in one that I see that is called out in the IPC. How can I reconcile this? Happy to call or research more, just seem to have exhausted my google foo and MS search foo. Thanks! V--
  11. Howdy, I would greatly appreciate the wisdom of the collective here. Since getting my 231, I've been struggling with an issue related to the TIT gauge. I had gone through a couple shops that couldn't figure it out before finding an A&P that would supervise and let me poke around on some things together. We've fixed a bunch of other nagging stuff that the other shops didn't (largely thanks to MS), so progress is being made. To make a very long story short, the ship gauge and JPI 830 are wired in parallel to the TIT probe. The gauge is unreliable and with them paralleled, the JPI reads about 200 degrees lower than when connected by itself, which is also about 200 degrees lower than the EGTs, so that doesn't seem right. With the ship gauge disconnected (for testing), the JPI seems to read where I'd expect. The TIT probe is the clamp style JPI probe. Speaking with JPI, they indicated the JPI probe doesn't support the ship gauge and we need one of the factory probes and those can be paralleled to the ship gauge and the JPI. Fine, no problem. From the reading on this forum and looking through the IPC, it seems I need the $400 Mooney 880055-505 or Alcor 86291 or Alcor 86309. Fine, no problem. Except those are all screw in probes and I do not appear to have anywhere to install that. I spent some time tonight looking at the exhaust tubing to make sure I wasn't just missing something and it appears the only place for a probe is where the current one is installed, via the clamping mechanism, directly inside the turbo inspection door. I'm guessing it has been this way since the new -LB1B engine was installed 10+ years ago. What is the proper method for fixing this and getting the ship in shape, so to speak? Is there a supported factory approved probe that works with the clamp vs a screw in? Thanks for your help! Vance
  12. Cowl Flap Hicky Hoo

    Thanks Clarence. I'll order from Mcmaster. Was just hoping I was missing it on Spruce, but doesn't appear so. Appreciate the link. Looks like the Mcmaster part for the regular one is 6058K32 and the stainless one is 6058K72; just for anyone seeing this in the future. Thanks again! Vance
  13. Cowl Flap Hicky Hoo

    Sorry to necro-post guys, but I'm looking for this exact ball joint quick disconnect assembly. I'm putting in a decent size order with Spruce (free shipping) and would love to just add these onto that order, but I can't find or figure out the part#. Anyone know it or can point me in the right direction, by chance? Thanks! Vance
  14. Thanks all. I checked the connectors briefly this morning before my flight to Phoenix. Didn't have enough time to do too much, so reseated the one cable I could clearly get to. No joy. Will try to spend a bit more time on it when I return. Thanks again! V--
  15. Howdy Mooniacs; Have a 79 231 with a Century 41, Aspen 1000 Pro PFD, and a Century AI. AP was working properly for the two months that I've been flying the plane. Flown probably 6-8 hours with it on and it worked flawlessly. Had a shop working on adding a probe to my JPI along with some other maintenance (oil change, fuel pressure/flow, etc). I noticed after that, the AP is no longer working properly. Coincidence perhaps, but I think those are generally pretty rare. Whenever it is activated, the plane rolls hard right. I've tried it 3 or 4 times on different flights with the same symptoms. I've let it go past 45 and it has no sign of stopping or slowing. I had the same problem during the pre-buy, but the AI was not functioning properly then. That turned out to be a bad vacuum pump. Once replaced, the AP worked properly. In this case, the AI appears to be tracking correctly. I was thinking something might have gotten bumped or disconnected. I had the shop take a quick look at it and they were unable to identify the issue. They indicated the cables were still as expected. Since it is rolling past 45, it seems it would have to be an issue between the AI and the AP, correct? Doesn't seem the Aspen would be in play at all, if I understand correctly how this functions. Any suggestions on where to look first? Anything I can take a peek at myself? I'm moving fields next week (KABQ to KAEG) and may start over with a new mechanic, just looking to get a jump start. Thanks! Vance