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About vance.k

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    1979 M20K 231
  1. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    Just realized I hadn't followed up on this thread to close the loop. I ended up buying the PMA'd KSAvionics A002C-30 unit for a little over $200. Installed it and verified it worked correctly with the ship gauge. Then we paralleled the JPI and everything is working correctly. The JPI reads about 25F higher than the ship gauge, but I'm happy with that. So, I guess this is confirmation that there is some technical issue with the JPI probes not being able to drive this particular ship gauge, but the PMA'd units work just fine. And that's a bonus. Thanks again to all the MSers that pitched in to help with info and guidance. Vance
  2. M20k 231 exhaust

    Hey @Northern Mooniac, Congrats on getting it fixed. I'm curious, what all was done for the repair? I basically ended up with a completely rebuilt exhaust. I know they are supposed to keep some portion of the original component in order to 'repair', but I swear each shop basically built a new system. Anyway, I'm back flying with what I would say is a 100% new exhaust, but it cost many multiples of $500 Canadian. Thanks! Vance
  3. Thanks everyone. I wasn't able to create any type of account via the portal, that I could figure out. I emailed ATP and they responded that they are no longer free. The cost is $330 for the Continental Engine Library, according to that same email. Vance
  4. M20k 231 exhaust

    NM, I feel your pain. I'm in the throws of the same issue right now. Found a leak near the #6 (exhaust dust and blistered paint on the engine mount). We pulled the whole left side exhaust and sent it to Knisley. Was supposed to be 2 weeks, but took over 5. Ugh. Then, once we got it back, big leak on the crossover between the new and old. Our mistake for not taking everything off and sending it all together. Good advice above to do that...wish I had known. I actually didn't realize they basically just rebuild everything instead of patching. Works for me...I just didn't know. Knisley basically said it would be another 4+ weeks. Dawley said the same. It is killing me having the plane down (I fly quite a bit and hate taking the 'bus'), so I overnighted everything to Aerospace Welding in MN as they indicated 1-1.5 week turnaround. We will see. Check those v-bands while you have it apart. Found a crack on one of mine. Good luck! Vance
  5. Thanks everyone! That explains why I wasn't finding it in the quick search I did...there's good money to be made selling it. I'll give eflightmanuals a shot and see if that fills the need. If not, I'll sign up for ATP. Thanks again! Vance
  6. Hi MSers, My A&P is doing some work on my 231 today and asked for the Continental Maintenance Manual. I just realized I don't have that (only the one from Mooney). I found that what I need is X30571 and I can order it from spruce, but I'm curious if there is a legit source online where I can buy a digital copy...or perhaps if anyone has one handy they wouldn't mind sharing? Thanks for the help! Vance
  7. 231 - AOG - Oil out the breather

    Hi everyone, Just wanted to follow up with the resolution. Went to the plane today with my mechanic and IA armed with the ideas above. Upon closer inspection, it was pretty clear that the breather hose was probably not well secured onto the o/a separator. The hose was extremely hard and the bulge for the barb was outside the clamp, and it was too short. Kind of seems like it was just butted up against the o/a and somehow finally became dislodged. I picked up the plane the very end of May and have flown about 140 hours before this happened. Hard to say why this time. We hadn't messed with the breather at any point. To answer some of the questions, no icing and there is an ice/whistle hole on the pipe pretty high up inside the cowl. We replaced the hose, cleaned it up and did a test flight, all good. Flew it home to abq without incident. Thanks again for the incredible support and ideas. Vance
  8. 231 - AOG - Oil out the breather

    Great feedback guys, thank you! I am starting to think along the same lines, that high pressure / ram air on top into the a/o could be the causal issue once the top breather hose fell off. I’m not 100%, but am extremely confident the oil on the belly is coming from the breather sticking out the bottom of the cowl flap. Inside the bottom cowl is clean and there was a good amount of oil dripping out of the tube end after shut down. The photos were not definitive, sorry, but I spent a good amount of time looking inside the cowl and it is clean in there. Thanks again! Vance
  9. Hello MSers; Flying from Denver to ABQ, just SE of Alamosa, burning smell in the cockpit. Immediate diversion to Alamosa. Puddle and oil all over the belly, coming from the breather. Also, the tube in front of the oil/air separator was off. I’m 1Q low from where I started in Denver. Did not notice anything amiss with the engine, normal temps, good oil pressure, power normal, etc. Mechanic is driving up tomorrow to take a look, but wanted to get advice from the group. My question is mostly, the hose that came off the separator, is that a cause or effect? Did it get blown off due to the crank being pressurized, or did it somehow fall off and cause the separator to not work correctly and start dumping oil? I’m assuming I lost a ring, but we’ll investigate tomorrow. Thanks for your help; Vance
  10. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    @CaptRJM, to clarify, did you use the Alcor calibration and test set to determine the ship gauge was inaccurate? I suspect the JPI 830 with a JPI probe is probably pretty well calibrated, where I have less confidence in the ship gauge. I've seen you can rent that Alcor test set, but I'm just curious how you determined yours was off. Thanks! Vance
  11. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    Thank you, sounds good! I'm going to focus on getting the correct probe and getting the ship gauge working and will worry about how to get the JPI happy after that. Thanks again! V--
  12. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    This is great info, thanks. If/when you get a chance, would you mind snapping and sending a photo of how that is done with one clamp? Really curious about that. Thanks again! Vance
  13. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    Yea, that was my first thought as well, but from what I've read, seems ok to parallel the TIT with ungrounded probes. I believe the ship CHT probe is grounded, so perhaps that is the difference? Also, the JPI tech said it was the correct way to do it, as well as there being installation and calibration instructions in the manual specifically for this use case, as well as this FAQ. The JPI tech did say the JPI probe isn't approved for being connected to the ship gauge. I did read somewhere that the Alcor probes are designed to produce more power to drive the ship gauge... I guess we'll find out. I'm curious how people with non-certified engine monitors are doing this? Are they installing a second TIT probe or paralleling the factory probe? Would this involve drilling a second hole and if so, I presume there are some specific location/distance requirements for that? Given the cost of that particular piece of pipe, I'd be pretty hesitant to let someone go drilling on it. But I am curious how others solve the problem short of upgrading to a certified engine monitor and eliminating the gauges. That is my end goal, but I'm just not ready to bite that bullet yet. I appreciate all input. Thanks! Vance
  14. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    Extremely helpful, thanks Dan! I need to confirm my pipe diameter, but that looks perfect. It is hard to believe those are almost $500. Pfft..airplanes.. ;-) Thanks again! Vance ps. Extra thanks for making a trip to the hangar and getting that part. Way above and beyond!
  15. 79 231 -LB TIT Probe Question

    That's good info Dan. Any chance you have the part number of the probe in use? Thanks!