PeteMc

I used Prestige in VT (basically Canada). I've used Ed's Aircraft in the past for some touch up stuff. Also great by tough schedule, at least when I called.

When you do bite the bullet, be sure to go ALL IN... If there's something you think you want and are hedging on doing it later, Do It Now. You can really cut down on the installation costs if everything is already torn open. And be sure to add the (semi) little things like new antenna cable, panel lighting (what items do you still need post lights for), etc.

GI275s really and can give you the best of both worlds. Maybe just put in two as you AI and HSI, you can actually make them look like the old style. then start looking at the different options and switching them to different screens in the various stages of flight. Once you get use to them, decide if you want to switch up to a single bigger screen. If you do, one of the 275s becomes your backup and you can decide if you want to keep the second one or sell it. For the GPS, GTN750 is a nice box and works well with the 275s. But if you don't want that size map, consider the GTN650 which is the same box with a smaller screen.

The unobstructed part is just that there's nothing that's blown on there or obvious insect activity. Probably more for when there hasn't been a Pitot Cover put on. So after breakfast of lunch on the return flight... And I totally agree with @carusoam on the Pilot Window. Been doing that for years and is a great way to turn everything off after you've turn on ALL the lights and Pitot Heat to check them. Granted much less battery drain now with all LEDs. Additional note not for the pre-flight, but for the final walk-away at the end of the day and I guess really for just before the push-back, I never turn Off the Beacon. This way you will know if you left the Master ON.

I had some intermittent issues and sent mine in. They changed the "inline case" (battery case and controls) and sent it back. Has worked fine since then.

Checked Spruce again today.... Still can't find a portable lazy-susan so my plane is always "facing the wind" while parked.

In the picture it looks like there might be something attached to the console to prevent elevator movement. If that's true, how does it connect in a Mooney? (Pic is of a Piper) I'm not thrilled with the common use of the seat belt through the yoke, but it sure does lock it down. I can adjust my seat so that I get a neutral elevator. And @Papa K congratz on the plane! I'll agree with most of the things all the people have said with a couple of notes. Everyone has given you a HUGE list if you put it all together. Give some thought to places you go and what you need to carry. My list to add to that huge list you'll need to whittle down is: Paper Funnels: You can pick up a box at most Auto stores or Amazon, etc. After you add oil, you just toss the funnel and no mess in the plane. Oil: 1 qt definitely. CamGuard: I use it, but if you don't need to carry it in the plane in you're tight space or weight. Jumper Cables: As careful as you may be, there will be the time you leave the overhead lights on or your battery gets to that point where it needs to be changed, but it's a cold winter day when you find out and you're not at hour home airport. If you're at a small airport, no one may be around with the cables, but if you have your own you just need to find someone with a car. Tools: Some small kit with the things you need to change light, tighten small screws that come loose, etc. But don't go overboard again for space and weight. Your car trunk (or hangar if you have one) is a much better place for the majority of your tools.

Meant to reply to this earlier and got sidetracked... I actually disagree with your premise. In the 30 years I've owned my (41 year old) K I have not excessively changed my donuts. I'm thinking I've changed them once, but the logs are at the mechanics for the Annual right now. I've read lots of post from various people and there are as many that say they keep their donuts a long time as there are people that say they have to change them. I do think there is more of an issue if you live somewhere that it is really hot. And I also think a lot has to do with how you land. I have a friend that makes excellent landings in his Mooney and is extremely consistent. But he was taught in his primary training to PLANT the plane. I tend to let the plane stop flying (pending winds, etc.), so I think that may play into it as well.

Ah yes, I guess I had seen the side vents in the photo, but didn't make the connection that it wasn't a standard flow-thru like the majority of heaters. And I have to admit it looks like a box fan, so I had that in the back of my mind.

Connext between other devices or to your iPad? I've noticed that I need to have my iPad turned on when the GTN finishes it startup process or it will not connect. Also, the iPad cannot be connected to my phones Hotspot or any other WiFi device. Just needs to be sitting there in ForeFlight waiting for the GTN to search for it.

I see that there are TINY feet on the heater. Do you really want to put it on the carpet? Even if the heater doesn't get all that hot, I think I'd put it on some sort of heat resistant tile.

Also a little unclear of exactly what's going on.... But if you're talking about the "Visual" button that pops up on the display, you need to have a Route in so the GTN knows you're arriving at an Airport. Also,you may need to be X miles away from the airport for the GTN to realize it needs to show you that button. The Default (I believe) is 10 miles, but you can change that in the Settings. NOTE: I don't ever use that function if I'm in the pattern, so I don't actually remember if the button shows up anytime you are within those X miles or if you're approaching from a greater distance and get to the Visual Button to show up. But regardless it the Visual button showing up, you should be able to go to the Procedures, select Approach for the Airport and scroll down to the bottom of the list. All of the Visual Approach options are listed there. So if you select AND ACTIVATE one of those, you should get the full visual guidance.

My first question is who did the prior Annual? (Sorry if someone already asked this, I didn't see it skimming through the messages.) I'd be very curious why they missed the corrosion?! Was the maintenance differed? It seem very strange to me that the corrosion got so bad that it's grounding the plane now and no prior annual made note that corrosion was starting and needed to be watched. Also surprised there was nothing done to try and slow or stop the corrosion. I'd want to talk to the IA that signed off the last couple of annuals to confirm if the prior owner was aware of the issue. There is always the possibility that they did NOT know. It would be a shame if the shop they trusted really didn't do a full inspection and it got to this point. So as far as the sale goes, the prior owner would not be in the mix if they had no clue. That leaves the IA for the prior annuals and the shop that did the Pre-Buy to explain why you're finding out about this now.

My planes in getting a FW update for everything. Just sent my guy an email to find out if he had access to v2.43 when he did the updates.

It would appear the way they set it up is that you change it on the 275, not the GTN. So the button is hidden. But it would be nice if the avionics shop confirmed that.

Picture you're showing of the 275 does show LOC and is green, so it would appear that it is following the ILS/LOC. But certainly worth checking out if you're supposed to be able to change that on the 750 or just on the 275.

I'd say the GI275 as well. Look at the GNX75 for WAAS and ADS-B. Keep the 530 for Comm, ILS and backup GPS. Still means you'll probably want to keep another Comm. You'd have to check the prices, but another combo would be GI275x2, GNC355 (WAAS GPS & Comm), GNS530 (existing, Comm, ILS, BU GPS), GTX345 (ADS-B In/Out)

Actually "California Custom Products" Purple. If you search "California Gold polish" you'll get Mother's.

I was very impressed with LV Avionics at Allentown, PA (KABE).

As I understand it, but will defer to a true engine-maniac... The oil acidity will build up as the oil sits. Also, as the engine warms and cools (surrounding air temperature) while the plane sits for days, not minutes, it can build up humidity inside. Some of that moisture is just in the engine case, some gets in the oil. So those guys that start their planes for 10-15 minutes in the winter thinking they're doing good are really spreading that acidic oil and moisture around in their engine. That's the stories you've heard about the quick starts of the engine. In your case, after flying for a while, you have probably boiled off all the moisture and a lot of the acidity (old oil always is more acidic than new). In addition, your engine parts are still covered with oil from the flight. So there is no problem restarting the engine for your short taxi. The oil is as good as it's going to get until your next change. NOTE: There are a lot of people that say never start up again for a short taxi. They say it is the starting that causes a lot of damage, separate from the oil question you raised. So I try not to unnecessarily start my engine (and I used to be able to hand tow my plane the 4 spots over to where the self-serve used to be), but I too think keeping the tanks full is important. And it's better to restart the plane after it has run for a while vs. running the engine for 3-5 minutes to get the fuel and then shutdown.

Very true. And I guess there is no reason not to use Antifreeze, old habit just thinking it's more toxic. The RV type and the windshield cleaner will do the trick in most cases and you don't need to be concerned as much about wiping down the plane and getting it all over your hands, cloths, etc.

Nooo... Not Auto Antifreeze (as in the FAA reference).... Just the windshield cleaner, or the stuff @BravoWhiskey posted the picture of. I use that in our cabin every year and available at any auto shop. If you don't see it when you walk in the door, ask them for "Mobile Home" or "RV" antifreeze (vs. straight auto radiator antifreeze). One other thought if you do still have ice and need to spray. If you can, get whatever you use really warm. I know that may not be real easy, but maybe keep it in the car right in front of the heater and only put smaller amounts in the spray bottle to do smaller sections. ADDED: And the point of wiping the wing off falls in with the FAA document. The sprays we're talking about have not been tested at altitude and at the temps you may encounter. Dry or not. So you don't want the stuff locking up any moving parts. Also why you need to confirm everything moves and is dry while you're in the hangar. Once you're out, it's like any other day on the ramp with all it's winter pitfalls.

If you're in the hangar for 5 days there's a good chance the ice will come off. Between your engine heater putting off some heat, some sublimation and and on your daily check a few gentle whacks on the icy sections with your open hand to break up the ice without damaging the wings, I'm guessing it will come off. Heating would obviously be your best option, but if you can't... If you still have ice the day before you leave, use a spray bottle filled with auto windshield cleaner/antifreeze should do the trick. (I've never seen one with Ammonia, but check the ingredients.) Go around the plane a couple of times spraying it on and give it a little time to work. Then do your gentle whacks to see of you can break up the ice. And be sure to dry off the wings wherever you sprayed. Also, but sure to drop the flaps and check all the control surfaces to make sure they are not jammed up with ice. Ice has a habit of getting in everywhere with the melting and refreezing you described.

I think I may have gotten the last or near the last cover from Jim. Really like his work. Luckily it will be a few years, but I'll have to check out the Mac covers.

In the AVWeb article I just read it referenced a posted comment (don't know where) from another Lear pilot that Rwy 17 would have been too short, especially if wet. So that might have been part of the decision process to do the circle to land.