PeteMc

Did you recently add a new device? That may be why you haven't seen the Sync option before. As for using it, yes, I've used the Sync option since I did my panel a few years ago. I just need one SD Card for my GTN, GNC and GI275 (though I usually create a couple of them in case I get to the plane and find there's a problem with one of the SD Cards). The only thing you cannot sync is the Terrain database, but then updates for that are pretty rare (last one was Aug. 2020). If there is a Terran update, Garmin recommends creating an SD Card/USB drive for each device using the Standard Update option. And to only check the Terrain update and do it separately from all other updates. This may change with various Software updates, but at the moment this is how they recommend doing a Terrain update.

I did a fair amount of formation flying years ago when a friend was working on an article. Never had a problem with my veneer throttle in my K and I think the J also had one. If you join correctly you should be in that range of minor tweaks. Now if you join rapidly, like a military jet.... Well all bets are off and I won't be doing any formation flying with you in my non military plane and non military training.

HA! Not Google skills... All too often when looking at that site I'll be scratching my head "what does that mean again???..." So I'm well versed with finding the Legend!

Yes, the little red waves are low-level wind shear. Remember those are not FF's charts so for the Legend you need to go to NOAA/Aviation Wx. You can see the Legend here: https://aviationweather.gov/gfa/help/#symbols

No, there are different positions for the fuel selector. My K (231) has it where the Pipers had it, in the center. So not only are there no obstruction and either pilot can switch tanks, I can also look down and see it clearly. A friend's F (212 Trophy) has the fuel selector is under his legs. So he has one of the PVC pipes to make it easier to reach. ADDED: *Some* Pipers.... Just remembered all the selectors on the side panel. (Oops!)

ForeFlight already has Takeoff Performance. If your plane is not in there, then send them the POH info and they should add it. (I think it takes a while, but have heard they will eventually get it done.)

I'd send whomever resealed your tanks the bill for the Amazon borescope!!!

Really hard to say while we're all sitting here at our desks... But if it worked before, it sounds like the installation was done correctly, so it's on to trouble shooting. There are really only a few things you can check, so it sounds like a trip to the Avionics Shop is in your future. But a few things you can do CAREFULLY are: 1) Check to make sure the connectors on the back of the Audio Panel and the Radio are pushed in all the way. ("Is it plugged in???" was my mantra every time one of my staff came to me with an issue. Frequently there was a loose connector or some other issue with the cables or adapters they had run.) 2) Do you have two Comms as @PT20J asked? Do they have the same issue or does the other one work? If the other one works and they are the same Make/Model, swap them and see if the problem is the #1 Comm position or it is the #1 Radio. 3) If you know someone with the same Make/Model Comm as you, maybe they'll let you slide their radio in your plane and see if you still have the problem. That also will tell you if it is the radio or something else (Comm Panel, bad wire(s), bad connector, etc.). NOTE: One down side of this is if there is a short or some other issue that damaged your radio, it may damage theirs when you do the test. Unlikely, but still a possibility. Beyond that it's just best to take it to the shop where they can quickly bench test the Radio and the Audio Panel and see if they are working properly.

By any chance did the owner pass and the family is just selling the plane? And they ended up on the auction site not knowing any dealers. That *might* be one reason for the low price.

If it is a busy airport, my guess is that he may even make a profit even if he moved after only a few years. Just heard that a T hanger at SFF sold for $240K! If that's true... Ouch! (But then it just helped my investment.)

I'd actually expect Mooneyspace to come up as #1 or #2 on everyone's search that is already here. You need to find a computer that hasn't been here or any other Mooney sites and see how the list comes up.

I found other flights into TTD. The last one I see was from June 14th.

I don't know any of the engine gurus that say to reduce power or lean in the climb UNLESS there are cooling issues. John Deakin pretty much proved that you want full power up to your intended altitude and then for a few minutes to accelerate to your cruise speed. The increased climb speed actually decreased the wear on the engine by reducing the time to altitude. I guess I need to also say this is for the Turbo, which I think the discussion is about. In a Non Turbo you should consider leaning A LITTLE to maintain climb power once you're in the higher altitudes. But you need to really watch the temps.

I really know very little about these planes and (apparently thankfully) know very little about DG. But didn't I read something from him or a repost from him (prob. on FB) that said on this aircraft the tailwheel is only locked for taxi? And for the landing it does not matter. And regardless if it was not locked or it was in the locked position and there was a mechanical issue, even I can tell you it was NOT locked on that landing. So can someone that knows these planes educate me on if it matters or not. On a side note... Loved how he claimed the NTSB wanted his "cash" and the FD prevented it. Really? That's something you're going to claim publicly?!

Just a quick look in ForeFlight for CYBL I found Sealand Aviation Ltd (250-204-1086) that shows "Aircraft" maintenance as well as Seaplane maintenance.

I would think the ends would be bigger square or rectangular hangars? If they are smaller than a T-hangar ($450 vs $650 for a T) what are you supposed to do with them? If it is just for storage, does it have to be aviation related?

From what I've learned over the years... With the cowl flaps slightly open you get increased flow through the engine compartment, so less back pressure. And with the cowl flaps just slightly open they are more in the rough air from the prop and the downward flow from the face of the lower cowling just below the prop. So minimal drag in that air and they say the net gain is the better flow through the engine compartment. And there is better cooling. Now when you go to the in trail/mid position, the cowl flaps actually move into the airstream and cause both flow disruption and drag. Hence the loss in speed.

OH a Rocket. Then maybe that is correct for the required cooling of that big engine! My discussion was more the "Mooney" 231 & 252 Ks. The aftermarket Rocket has it's own requirements.

We were discussing a gear up plane once and the mechanic said basically what the others have said that if the plane did not come down hard to potentially really tweak something, and it was repaired properly, the should be 0 impact on the value of the plane. But everyone seems to be able to get a few bucks off because of that one skid along the runway. My plane had a prop strike and they were trying to sell it as X SMOH (few hundred hrs if I recall). Going through the books it showed they tore down the engine, did pretty much everything needed for a overhaul, but they did not actually DO an overhaul. So I got a big chuck off because of that faux pas.

So I found it in the Service Manual and as I thought, closed IS closed: "...Maintain .06 - .12 in. "cushion" on cowl flap control at the instrument panel when cowl flaps are closed." You may have misread the .12 in (3/25") for 12 in. And I was surprised that even the summer rigging is basically closed: " For improved cooling during summer months and warm temperature operations, cowl flaps may be rigged to have a .25 max inch gap at "B" when at the closed position." I do run mine about an inch open in the summer time or if I'm going down south. But it does confirm what I thought about technically correct rigging per Mooney is basically closed.

As others have said, that way too open. It looks like the flaps are in the mid position, not closed. Are you sure your cable is adjusted properly and when the handle is all the way in that the cowl flaps are not just going to the mid point?

My *guess* is it is a combination. I definitely talk to your Avionics Shop and ask them if this new Software and some additional tweaks will help. And when you say "broken" is it receiving, transmitting or both? If receiving, will hitting the Squelch help you hear them? If so, then you may just need to make sure your Noise Squelch is down in the 0 -10 range. It took a while before they really lowered my that much since the thought it was such a big change from the Garmin setting. Bottom line is to check with your shop or A Shop that is familiar with this local issue.

Just curious... Did you run the AC power so long that you couldn't just let the trickle charger take care of it? You actually needed and APU too? When I was parked outside on cold days I'd hook up the car to warm up the battery, but that was really all I needed. Now that I actually have power in the hangar, I'm looking at other options.

I didn't see it in the Service Manual. I'll look again.

Over in FB someone mentioned that the K (231 in my case) Cowl Flaps should be set to be 1" Open when indicating Closed. I've never had a mechanic rig mine that way and I've never seen any other K that way. Am I missing something? And yes, I do know you can drop the cowl flaps a bit when it is hot out, I drop the right side a bit every summer. But I'm talking the technically correct adjustment of the cowl flaps per Mooney.