Browncbr1

for the benefit of the community, can you please share the part number for the oring you used for this?

there is a MSC at CAK

you're going to need the BI-805 servo control valve too... which is the golden nugget..... Due to scarcity, some people have cracked open B6, B5C, and navflite boxes to get the control valve out of there and use it instead, but it is not legal.

one would think that sense they can be removed without the use of any tools, then it is no different than plugging a hand held GPS, fan, usb charger, or light into the cigarette lighter... they are both 12v sockets, right? right??

I'm a wait and see guy

http://www.geekwire.com/2017/trump-aviation-executives-faa-infrastructure/ privatization sounds like a slippery slope, but at least it's good to see there is some focus also on the equipment certification process as being a big problem. (STC's etc.. ) .. hopefully, if user fees do come up, some regulations will be changed to make avionics and instruments cheaper...

Marco, does the convoluted foam and insulation on the firewall make a noticeable difference in cabin noise?

67 F, 55k hull, ~200 hours TT/make/model, instrument rating, autopilot with alt hold, kept in shade hanger, $924 (Global) everyone else was about $500 more.. I'll increase the hull value next renewal though because I don't think I could come close to buying another F like this for 55

Don't forget to check oil dip stick where is screws into the case.

I know a CFI looking for work and would probably do this.. PM me if interested.

Thanks guys.. After playing with the ipad sim for the GTN and IFD, I feel like the GTN is just way more intuitive, but as you know, the simulator is a GTN 750, not 650, so I was trying to understand some of the differences... I understand that the GTN650 will also cross feed with my Aera510

Does the GTN 650 have an integrated audio panel/intercom, etc? Or is it just simply a remote control feature that requires an actual audio panel box to also be installed??

The 201 windshield makes the inside FEEL more roomy and also provides a dash board to put things enroute.. It improves visibility a little bit as well. As for speed, I tend to believe it probably improves cruise by about 5 knts.. some will say more, some will say less, but I think they might be comparing different models, power settings, DA, props, LOP/ROP, etc... I think it is largely an aesthetic improvement inside and outside.. There is no structural change. There is only a steel roll cage bar that remains there either way...what is removed is a strip of sheet aluminum skin... I do know that work between the yoke and the firewall is much more difficult with the 201 windshield. I don't think I would want the 201 windshield unless it was done as the SWTA STC that retains small removable cowl deck inspection panels on both sides. Some conversions don't have this, which would be problematic if it comes time to repair/replace a vacuum regulator, hydraulic master cylinder and a few other things that are difficult to access otherwise.. I know at least one person who fried a 430W because his stock cowl deck was not properly reinstalled with water tight silicone, etc.. , For this person, the cost of water damaged avionics were greater than the cost of added labor dealing with a 201 windshield.. Because of this, I am extremely anal about reinstalling the cowl deck panel on my own in a particular way to be sure about maintaining a water tight panel. I tell myself that one day, once my panel is just how i want it, I'll do the windshield... but that is many AMUs away.. I wouldn't worry about exceeding structural speed too much regardless of what you end up with... The reason is because you will learn uniquely how to stay ahead of whatever plane you buy... K models are pretty awesome, but I think the utility is not really realized unless your mission is high DA operations and/or +600nm.. The K, or a Rayjay modded F would be good for this type of mission, otherwise NA is probably the best way to go, economically.. If you feel that you need to "stretch" for a J, then you may have answered your own question... in aviation, it is "pay now, or pay later" ... It is probably not unreasonable to believe that the price delta between median and lower priced Js tells you how much first year costs there will be.. maybe more. Also, have a look at your mission.. If your mission is only 200nm, then are the couple minutes worth the extra $30-40k, higher insurance premium, and typically lower useful load? if you don't need the back seat room, is that cost worth the 10"? (An E is nearly the same TAS as a J) For me, even though I could have afforded a J, it was too difficult to justify in several respects.. I think it's great that you call yourself out as a woman... Maybe it helps inspire other women to jump in the game.. I think women are naturally good for aviation, as generally being more detail and safety oriented, as well as usually having less ego; which is often a big factor in aviation safety.. The ATC ladies at my home drone have saved my life at least three times that I know of with very clear timely communication regarding crazy 1200 traffic.. The ATC men at the same field have nearly caused me 2 midair collisions by providing incorrect information... they have also tried to vector me directly into an antenna tower.. I know this is all anecdotal, but I trust the KTYS ladies with my life..

very true, which is why I could only attest to what I have experienced thus far.. If mine comes up with an engine failure that results in an unusable core, I would be looking for a good used engine..

there is a PMA replacement for an IO-360 case?

To the OP, my costs are as follows: $2100 yr shade hangar $900 yr insurance @ $55k $1300 yr annual (basic), next annual will be more because I will elect to rework the rigging and probably put new pucks in. Across almost 3 years of ownership, I have spent about $3k in unexpected maintenance. During that same time frame, I spent about the same on expected maintenance. (mostly magnetos) I'm going to reevaluate engine reserve (unrealized cost) because lycoming just reduced prices a ton.. My guess is that some people will use that as rationale to buy more gizmos! haha. The amount of money I have spent on elective upgrades dwarfs everything else. I have reworked my panel, added autopilot with altitude hold and other gizmos.. I'm not including those amounts here because they were elective. Most costs are elective. I spent less than $4k on fuel last year and flew 120 hours. I think the overall difference between your 172 would be more dependent on what you WANT to do to your new mooney than what you would NEED to do.. my $0.02

The jbar is not only cheaper and more reliable, but models that have the jbar come with hydraulic flaps, which I prefer to electric. You can feel them and know where they are from pump lever feedback.. I like that they are completely independent of the electrical system. I have a friend who has had to replace several flap relays and other electrical problems for the flaps and gear. If you get electric gear, get the slow gear box version.. The Dukes has the fast gear box and has more problems.. The reason why I mentioned pin pointing the year (actually year range) is because manual gear was not offered after 1967. There is a very big difference between a 67 F and say, 71 F as the company changed ownership and marketing lost their minds on the tail design, among other construction changes. The 67 also has washout at the wing tips.... not a big deal, but something to be aware of. Good luck in your search and try to be sure about what you are going to be married to! Oh yea, check not only ADs, but also SBs. Like the rear spar SB

I can't think of anything more terrible than buying a plane that you later realize isn't what you really wanted.

I recommend you identify the exact model, year, and basic features you want, then search for one that is corrosion free. Trying to decide between two different models during the purchasing process is too difficult. For example, before I started the serious stage of the buying process, I narrowed down to 1967 F with J bar. This helped me tremendously when searching and deciding to buy.

The film I got is just static cling. No need to use soap or water. Immediately, upon first install, I was disappointed because it wasn't perfectly clear, but after a few hours, somehow it clears perfectly. So, don't get discouraged after you put it on. It clears up. Something about how the film is on paper and needs some time to smooth out

Exactly

If you haven't already, go to your local auto parts store and get static cling window tint. You can cut to shape and can be removed in the winter or night. It's about $10 for a giant roll. The stuff I got is here and makes a HUGE difference. https://www.gilafilms.com/for-auto/static-cling-tint

I finally got my B-11 in and flew yesterday. (Added accutrak to my accuflite b-12). Awesome. They work together to do what capture mode does on the b-6. Approach mode on the b-6 is just simply higher sensitivity. On my b-11 accutrak, there is a high or low sensitivity switch that accomplishes this. Best $600 you can spend! i also have alt/pitch hold and it works pretty well.

Yea, I've always locked it too, but this thread has made me consider something that I hadn't before.

You deflect the surface all the way in one direction and make the servo on the other side all the way out. With this, there should be about an inch of slop. Repeat other side. When sitting on the ground, it looks sloppy. When vacuum is applied to both servos, the slop goes away. I'm not an A&P