DXB

Well, I was hoping for this! Garmin just made an extra AMU off me. Will now get Flightstream 210 put in together with the GTN 650 that's going into my panel next month. I'm a devoted Stratus/Foreflight user, and so I hadn't wanted to switch to the Garmin equivalents to get this functionality. I may be nuts- really I'm spending the AMU for just getting flight plans into the GTN 650, since I won't have the GDL-88 and am getting an economical KT74 replacement for the my KT76A for ADS-b out. Wish there was a box that did just this one function for less money. The Stratus does a fine job for ADS-b in on ipad, and the GTN650 screen is a tad small for all this info anyway.

On my C model it looks like its just held in place by a bunch of small screws. The experts should weigh in though...

I think that stuff is "windlace"? I just bought some from Aircraft Spruce for my door: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/windlacedoorwelt.php They only have black- luckily the color of what I have now, vintage '68 and turning to dust in an otherwise fairly recent interior. I'm sure other options must exist somewhere. Will give it a shot putting it in this weekend, suspect will be either easy or a giant cluster...

Alright then, thanks. Gear horn adjustment has been added to the list of stuff for the annual - 18" is just too high to hear it. I think it's a factor in my not slowing down to Vlo very easily- I pretty much stop pulling back on the throttle if I hear the horn. Maybe I've become conditioned by the noise to feel it's a sign of weakness to trigger the horn outside its actual purpose, so I subconsciously try to keep MP above 18" before the gear comes down.

I rarely land without hearing the gear horn at some point. I don't wait as long as described above to drop the gear- usually try to time it for 30-60 seconds before entering downwind. After descending at MP of 20, I level off around 300-500 ft above TPA, then pull the throttle back further and level off- horn will start blaring at MP of 18 usually - does this mean the horn switch is out of adjustment? I'm pretty far aft on the throttle at this point, so maybe not. Still it feels like an eternity for IAS to go from around 130-140mph to 120 so I can drop the gear. I then tug down neurotically on the johnson bar a few times on downwind, base, and final. I'm not worried that not down at this point (seems I could have never slowed adequately otherwise), but rather that the sleeve is locked up (a habit formed from difficulties getting sleeve to lock during my transition training).

I like the Gremlin aesthetics better, but gross weight is likely comparable.

Interesting comparison thread. I think fuel, parts, annual, and insurance are somewhat less with my M20C than the F35. Avionics and air to air combat capabilities may be slightly inferior, but not enough to justify the added expense. The long bodies may be a more comparable .

Good to know. And I guess I'm sticking with traditional position light bulbs until there's a PMA'd low cost LED alternative.

Diagnosis made! The knob rotates clockwise slowly during flight- GF's hair elastic hooking it to flap release lever fixed the problem (I know, hardly an optimal solution and will look funny on printed checklists). The control has very little friction to hold it in place for part of its travel. I think may be wear-related in the part, as it happens in range of travel where it is most often used (2300-2500rpm)- it holds well in other parts of the range. Is there a safe, clever solution that costs much less than a >$500 replacement? I guess I can live with it for a while as it's not about to make me fall out of the sky...

Seems pretty clear the navstrobes are illegal, as well as of no value for strobe function at night, when the must be lit steadily. But while on the topic of Nav lights, is there a preferred direct plug in replacement LED for the 3 standard nav lights above that is unequivocally legal, draws low current, and is as bright or brighter than the incandescent equivalent? If so I'll likely replace mine with these when they start burning out, and I'd be more comfortable leaving low draw LEDs on all the time during the day. I also hope legal strobe LEDs come along eventually- restoring my ancient Hoskins (?) strobes when they give trouble eventually will cost arm/leg most likely. I know legal LED landing light options exist, but these are pricey for the amount that I'd actually use.

So now there's this: http://generalaviationnews.com/2015/07/07/stratus-ads-b-receivers-updated/ Should I be gutted that I just got my Stratus 2 just a couple months ago, for the same price as the 2S? Dunno if the added functionality is much- others can weigh in. Might be the right time to pick up a discount Stratus 2 on the used market though for those with more patience and self control than me.

This is good to hear. I paid 2100 when I bought my C model 7 months ago, hull valued at 46k, when I was still a student pilot and two weeks away from my checkride. Now I'm near 150hrs and have >60 hrs in the plane, 50 of them as PIC. Hopefully the drop when I renew in December will more than offset the increase related to added value from my panel job slated for next month. Do you also use Falcon?

Here's someone who went to trouble of repainting in the '68 original paint scheme, decals and all. I don't love the color, but updated version could be very nice: But I think the scheme on this '66E might be the sharpest retro one I've seen:

BTW very solid advice provided on this thread. As a first time buyer 6 months ago of a very similar plane (a C model), I wish I'd gone through a screening process similar to what you are getting here. Probably would have saved me a few amu's. In today's market, this is certainly not a 43k plane. That sketchy elevator repair may be a deal breaker even if you could negotiate down a good bit. On the upside, if it's a G model you want, the handful that come up for sale seem better cared for and nicer on average than the typical C-F models for sale.

I imagine the insurance costs would also differ somewhat?

I've had my M20C about 6 months and had never flown behind a constant speed prop prior to this, so I don't know what's normal. After I level off for cruise, I usually set power at 23 MP, 2300 rpm. Then I futz around with trim and mixture for a bit. When I'm done with this, rpm usually reads about 2350, and then I pull it back again to 2300. It might drift up again to 2350 one more time, and then generally it stays put after pulling it back again. But yesterday I was surprised to notice it had come up to 2400 about an hour into the cruise during my scan- I may have neglected checking for a while, but it had never drifted so far off before. So to test the governor, I pitched up firmly and slowed to 120mph IAS. Then I pitched down and came up to 170mph IAS - 20 mph above my cruise IAS. The governor did its job and held 2300 rpm like a rock the whole time. My question is - is the amount of drift I am seeing in cruise concerning or in the range of normal? It has a Top Prop which was installed in 2011 but the last governor overhaul that I can find in the books was in '97.

I'm kinda partial to the art deco-ish paint schemes of the late 60's. My '68C now sports a simple white on top, blue on bottom scheme which looks just fine. However if I ever repaint, I'd probably try to come up with a slightly updated version of the original. Here's a nice print ad for the '68C. It would be ideal if you could get the young lady in the cowboy getup included with the paint job.

Horrible tragedy. Engine failure at 3000 over populated area. No runway in glide distance. IMC with low ceiling. Listening to the ATC was truly sad- leaves me feeling that there was little hope after the engine quit, irrespective of the pilot's skill and experience level. Only way of averting may have been not to do the trip at all. I crave getting my instrument rating, but not for trips like this. I also have not flown at night since getting my license and am in no rush to do so. But when I think about it, would I be much better off if the same happened to me today in day VMC over a large, densely populated area? Over dense forest? On initial climb at my home field in an urban area? Keeping oneself in a favorable situation at all times for losing the engine seems futile, but luckily these accidents are the small minority. It might be best just to take care of your engine, practice the engine out checklist, and then choose to worry only about all the stuff where your day to day decision making makes a real difference.

Thought I should close out this thread after my trip. This was the most challenging trip so far in my brief aviation experience and a dense learning experience. Thanks to all for advice above, most of which was on point. Reassessing weather continuously in the air and thinking flexibly based on the info was the most key thing. Having predetermined contingency plans in mind, including alternate places to land and rent a car to complete trip if needed, was also helpful. Valuable first experiences for me included (1) Flying in vicinity of evolving isolated thunderstorms while integrating datalink weather info and help from ATC to keep a safe distance. This led to a 2 hr unplanned stop before crossing the Appalachians that was key to my staying alive. (2) On the way back, flying VFR at 7500 over a 4000 ft scattered to broken layer for 150 miles so I could get over the mountains safely. I monitored ceilings on the other side, both by datalink and its visual correlate, to make sure I didn't get trapped above. In retrospect, the weather situation was pretty manageable along my route, but facing these types of decisions for the first time sure had my anxiety up. I've no clue how people did this comfortably before weather in the cockpit. I would have landed and then gone home whimpering had my Stratus 2 stopped working. Also I think seeing the metar infos and radar picture in near real time while also seeing their visual correlates through the windshield may accelerate learning about what's going on outside considerably, rather than necessarily breeding over-reliance on the technology.

Yeah I notice somewhat similar fluctuations too, definitely more pronounced when I switched from 15W50 to 100W for the summer months.

Huh- seems to be advertising for a new comedy central show mocking reality TV about rich people with questionable taste like Kardashians etc. Ad idea may be partly inspired by this lovely incident: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/northamerica/usa/11388851/Conrad-Hilton-called-passengers-peasants-in-BA-flight-rage.

Going forward, I'm including "No feral cats in the wings and tail" as a distinct item on my preflight checklist. It's all fun and cute youtube videos until one messes with a control surface link or claws into a bladder.

My M20C transition instructor got me in the habit of also pulling engine back to idle briefly with the carb heat on during runup to make sure it doesn't die. This seemed reasonable to me and I continue to do it. On a related note, I'm glad I check it in some form- not sure it matters exactly when? Yesterday, during runup before leaving on a long trip, I seemed to get subtly larger mag drops on both sides. I then pulled it carb heat and got no RPM drop, and the cable pulled straight out of the panel past the stop without resistance. The cable had snapped, probably after I used during my last landing, leaving it in the default position without the cable, which is full on. It broke 2 inches behind the attach point to the carb heat box for no apparent reason at all. This is a brand new $300 factory cable installed at prebuy in December by an MSC! Luckily there was enough length on it left for the mechanic on my field to jury rig it in the nearly full off position and get me on my way. Of course the friction lock mechanism also fell apart, so now I have to hold it in the full on position if I want to use it. I called the MSC mechanic who put it in - he was cool about it and is looking for a new cable to send me - the original spec part doesn't seem easy to come by.

As a 150 hr VFR pilot working to extend my comfort zone, I'm preparing for a 800-900 mile flight to the thunderstorm-laden Midwest. I've never gone beyond 250sm, and my longer trips so far have all been in excellent weather, so this is a big jump for me. It seems impossible in the summer to get to the midwest from the east coast without some risk of T-storms en route. For those who recall making this type of jump in complexity of VFR trip, is there any specific advice you would offer? I want to be safe, but not so conservative that I don't learn much from the experience. I've studied the forecasts for days, left myself generous time windows on both ends of the trip, planned multiple possible routes depending on where the storms end up being, and am prepared to split it over two or even three days if warranted. I also have the great benefit of weather data and radar picture from a Stratus 2. Also the trip isn't so important that I couldn't just cancel it and head home if it's not panning out.

This looks very cool. I may want one someday- assuming I ever recover financially from my panel upgrade this summer