Aerodon

OK, this is a little goofy. I have some NOS (new old stock) pucks from 2014 and some good used pucks from 2015. My main gear pucks look pretty good, my nose gear needs replacing, so I only need 3. Bear in mind the shelf life of rubber components depend on a lot of variables. And the service life, even more. The pucks on the nose gear carry about 250 lbs each when parked, the main gear about 220. I'm sure the main gear gets exercised more on landing. Given the price on new ones, someone might be interested in some NOS or good used ones? Aerodon

No, you leave the OEM probe alone and use the s[arkplug gasket probe for the JPI. No locktite, maybe use spark plug thread lubricant so they don't get locked in. Aerodon

If you've already taken all the screws holding the whole panel in, and disconnected the 2 or 3 connectors, the wires that are likely holding it are the 2 alternator wires and main battery wire. I took these off the circuit breakers. There might have been one or two more wires (cigar lighter?). Aerodon

Here's a rough start based on my M20K panel. I think your turn co-ordinator needs to be mounted vertically, or at least recalibrated for an 8 degree tilt to get a flat panel all the way across. Or you can try doing a vertical panel all the way across? I think a tilted panel will reduce the height of useable space in the radio stack because of interference? Aerodon M20C_R1.pdf

Some suggestions: MaxDim Duo for panel and glareshield lights. Nulites (incandescent work just fine, I think they make LED too but check that they are compatible with your dimmer) KI206 or 209 for the KX165 to save a bit of money. I think in the long run you will regret not doing 2 x GNC255's. MD93 clock / OAT / USB C etc. GI-275 engine gauge for space saving and symmetry. Small vertical stack of circuit breakers like later model Mooney's on a separate panel. It really helps to finish the power and grounds inn the airplane and have a quick connect like Mooney does on later models. Aerodon

Nice job. I'm curious, where did you get the ABS, and how thin is it after stretching around the front and back of the form? And a picture of your oven please? Don

This is a new unit. ACS charge $3945 and may or may not charge sales tax to your state. And they are not going to negotiate on that price, or put together a set of thermocouple wires and JPI transducers at a really good price. Aerodon

I have a spare new GI-275 with EIS that I took in trade on an EDM930. This will work well in a Mooney with a cramped panel. From what I can see in the install manual, you can use existing CHT/EGT probes and the floscan FF transducer. Probably the OAT. I have a set of JPI EGT/CHT probes and a wiring harness to add to this. And could also add JPI Oil T, OAT, FF. Aerodon

What are the CHT's doing? Carb engine right? Induction air leak causing a leaner than other cylinders. Look carefully at gaskets the rubber joint in the induction, goofy things like those old 'standby vacuum systems'. On an injected engine I'd be looking for a partially blocked injector. Don

I take various JPI engine monitors in trade to help keep the costs of upgrading down. I use these for cores for new 830 displays from JPI, quick replacements for 'bad screens', and for upgrades or complete systems for other customers. I only sell units that I would install in my own plane, and make sure you have the right harnesses and probes for your particular project. And I have enough parts to provide full replacements if needed. Here is a description of typical opportunities for improving your system: EDM700 basic, add memory, add fuel flow, add USB cable for downloads, add transducers - carb temp, oil temp, OAT etc. EDM800 - add MP and RPM, get % power. This is a nice upgrade, and gets you plug and pay ready for a full EDM830 EDM730/830 - the displays are the same and you can start with a 730 and add transducers until it is a full 830. EDM900/930 - these are OEM replacements. There are some transducers that are compatible with the EDM700's (CHT,EGT,RPM, FF), but your installer needs to be on board with reusing the existing wiring and transducers. If you can reuse the EGT/CHT harness and probes, it saves a lot of installation time. Used EDM900/930's do come up for sale, but it costs $500 to reprogram for your plane, and it costs a fortune to replace some of the transducers (oil pressure, fuel pressure, etc). So buyer beware. Contact me for anything you might need, even if you want to change out an existing unit for an identical unit with a better display or cosmetics. The factory is running out of displays, I have units with new displays in stock for a quick change. I've seen some really hacked cases and faceplates. Aerodon

I'm not so sure I agree with that. For now Mooney seems to be trying to keep their head above water with parts sales and probably contract manufacturing. That's all they have got. Once the private equity guys get hold of companies like Hartzell and L3 Avionics, they shamelessly cancel viable products, increase prices by exorbitant amounts etc. Don

During an annual, the cowl is off already. 40 hours is enough to do a full install if you have the tools and parts on hand. The first thing to look at is the fuel transducer and make a decision to either make up or order the fuel hoses. On the Continental, it's hard to access the magneto (RPM) and oil temp probe (some baffling needs to be removed). OAT is a little tedious if you want to route the wire out to the RH wing like the factory did. And there is quite a difference between list and street price of the EDM900 itself. And if you wait until the next rebate, another $400 or so off. Need to find someone that will let you order and bring the EDM900 to the shop. Aerodon

Depends, a lot of the cat's whiskers VOR antennas have built in baluns. There are different mounting hole patterns. Aerodon

You'll be amazed at how far you can get through a wing with a series of welding rods. Even ribs beyond ribs without access holes. Aerodon

I have a good set for sale. Removed from a 1986 M20K with 1750 TT for the encore upgrade. Send a pm. The difference between the Mooney and Cirrus 10-24D vs 10-24C is the mounting hole on the back end it drilled 90 degrees differently so the cylinder can be mounter horizontally (pipes out the side instead of the bottom. Aerodon

Can you tell us more about the annunciator panel removal. I take it you kept the gear down and gear unsafe annunciators and they are mechanically dimmable. Lo fuel level is now on the G3X. Hi / Lo volts are on the G3X but this is not quite the same as 'overvolage' trip by the alternator control unit? Hi/Lo vacuum gone. Starter power - who needs that, but what is the basis for removal? Alternate Air? Aerodon

I have a set of Cleveland brake master cylinders for you. The rod ends are adjustable, nothing else is. Sounds like you got an installation error? Aerodon

Shawn, another 'gotcha' that you are going to run into if you are removing the vacuum system and / or annunciator panel. This SB had the ACU 'Rem Sense' removed from the Field CB and spliced into the annunciator power (Alt #1) and the vacuum Hi/Lo switch (Alt#2). I tried to figure out why, best I can think of is that if the field circuit breaker trips, then you won't get an over/under volt warning. I looked at the later M20K's and they revised the wiring diagram to take this wire directly to the Annunciator and Vac Warning CB's. I don't know why the SB just didn't call for that in the first place - you had to change the CB's from 1A to 2A anyway, so it would be easier to move these wires from the Field CB's right there instead of splicing behind the annunciator. Aerodon SBM20-245A-4.pdf

Those two wires are from the dimming bus to the BendixKing KI256 and KI525 indicators. I guess the dimming circuit was still too bright or not balanced for these indicators. The anodized device is the airspeed switch for the landing gear circuit, there is a spare CPC connector, I am using that to activate the airtime on my MD93 clock. I have removed my Mooney dimmer circuit and replaced with a MaxDim dual dimmer. Have a look at those 3 terminal trips in front of the airspeed switch. Ground Bus #1 and Ground Bus #2. Avionics Dimmer Bus. With all the instruments you are removing, there are more than enough terminals on Ground Bus #1. I have converted Ground Bus #2 into Panel Dimmer Bus. This is a much more reliable and logical setup. Panel Dimmer Bus - post lights, console, clock, compass, glareshield Avionics Dimmer bus - dang - as I write this I can't think of any avionics that will need a dimmer. Maybe I will rethink this and put the glareshield on #2. (Edit, yes the G500, GTN750, GI-275, SL30 can use a dimmer input) This frees up one CB / power wire (Glareshield Dimmer), and its in the right location for a GSB15 instead of the Cigar Aux Per. I will be doing a drawing of this for my records, will share when ready. I think this is a good modification for all Mooneys. Aerodon

I have a spare one with the 'stop tab' half broken off. Looking for someone that can do a repair. Aerodon

This is my latest effort, a Beech 33/35/36/58 'floating' panel with 2 GI-275's. It's a bit nerve wracking doing these, it's a $300 blank out of hardened 0.100", expensive not to get it right the first time. The large rectangle is for a flush mounted JPI Remote Display. The small one is for an annunciator. The Beech rubber mounts behind the panel get removed and replaced with FR fibre blocks. Posting it here, because this would be a really good layout for the older Mooneys with the smaller LHS panel. Aerodon

I've got a nice low time GTX345 coming in, in a couple of weeks (another 345DR upgrade). Or is there a word for side-grade or dumb-grade? Complete with new install kit etc. Can add a harness and GAE12 encoder if required? (Highly recommend the GAE12). Aerodon

Rebates end Monday. Contact me for best pricing and trade in / upgrade deals. Aerodon

Oh but it would look so cool, just like jet windows. But I would think you really have to know what you are doing with material types, surface finish etc. I believe the EVO windshield blowouts were caused by scratch marks on the outside edges. Even in non-pressurized, you would not want to be doing anything that causes stress risers. Another reason for doing it would be to install a 1/4" windshield in a 3/16" slot. I saw a 'tube video with an STC's windhield in a 401 - no holes, a series of U's milled into the thick windshield to make sure there is no contact between the screws and plexiglass. Aerodon

'Right to Repair' is becoming an issue in Europe legislation and it is something we should start to support for our own benefit. For example I have a Miele dishwasher, there is one central parts supplier and I can get a parts catalog and replacement parts at very reasonable prices (<$100 for a drain pump). And they guarantee parts for 10 years after production stops. In comparison my Samsung dryer made in China needs a new control board for $450 and a new machine is $850. And I can't find a parts list that will be in line with my serial number. L3 sold their stormscope line to Extant (short for Exorbitant) and flat repair has gone from $400 to $6000, and a new processor is now $19,000. MT are not known for addressing quality issues very well, also they have mandatory 7 year overhaul period vs the other brands 10 year requirement in Canada because of the way their overhaul manuals are written. I now know of two different MT prop strikes where the owners are being told it will cost more to overhaul with new blades than a new prop will (without even looking at the hub). You'd think they would be able to look at the hub and determine if there are any reusable components before coming to that determination. Maybe I'm being optimistic, any prop strike with any manufacturer is a write off? Another 'pet hate - stay away from' supplier is Kannad. Nice little ELT brick, known for failing the 'maximum current' test at recertification. You'd think they would come up with a reasonable flat rate repair (even if it means replacing the whole board), or 'exchange deal' to deal with their inadequate design. But no, a repair will probable cost as much as a new one. I'm OK with flat rate repairs, but they should be somewhere in line with the cost of the components and effort to repair. Aerodon