Releew

Foxey........

Thanks for the info.... I did send in the AP head to AP central. I was told it had an error trapping routine built in the firmware that could be read by a diagnostics device. There is a port on the right side of the unit. I did change the Trim Servo and was getting the same intermittent problem. I am concerned it is a connector or wire on the back of a pin or harness. Waiting to see what the error report says. I am hoping it is something very definitive in the motherboard. AP central told me there are three different voltages required to pass the system check and they have seen this to be a problem with a few of the capacitors that were right on the boarder of being bad. Thanks for the input. Rick

You forgot Marvel Mystery Oil too............... No fix on the AP..... Once again, sometimes it passes the pre-flight test, sometimes doesn't. Generally good for the first flight. Trim light blinks but no audible confirmation..... SOMETIMES! Flew today with a different twist. It passed all tests but wandered a few degrees past the heading (heading hold) hunting and oscillating. Never did that before! Changing the computer next! Someone out there has to had experienced this problem. Any input is appreciated. Rick

Don't know about the red stuff but I've see and done the same thing with Pro-Seal. Rick

Wanted to provide an update. Several weeks and I am still fighting this problem. I have been in discussions with Auto Pilot Central who BTW are GREAT folks to deal with and have a DEEP understanding of this system. Long story short.....I took the plane to the local Avionics Shop. Tech was amazed the AP computer did not have an access port to plug into for troubleshooting so in essence we either had to get out the Fluke or replace a few parts. Fortunately, they had a spare trim servo available. In a nutshell, just about everything pointed to the Trim Servo......BUT after swapping to a KNOWN GOOD Servo the same problem was present....4 pulses on the motor but no audible tones to indicate all good to engage the AP. At that point I decided to pull the AP head as AP central was going to send me a loaner to troubleshoot with. REALLY GREAT PEOPLE. I had to remove the 530 and DME in the stack above the 150 first. When I backed out the AP head and placed a light on the connection bus-bar I noticed minor oxidation on the terminals. I did not remove the unit as it was a PITA to get the static hose off the back of the unit. I carefully cleaned the terminals and replaced the equipment back in the rack. EVERYTHING worked the first time and several test afterwards! I HATE to say this was the problem...... More test tomorrow! Rick

Look at the surface area of the pad and rotor. No way this design is made to stop you fast at a high speed..... Its enough to slow the aircraft down and stop at a slow speed or allow for tight turns via. differential braking. Sure you can easily lock them up but it won't stop you any faster.....just skid and spend more money! Rick

For those interested..... I did more digging and with the help of AutoPilot Central got a schematic on the system and some great troubleshooting advice. Below is the sequence of operational checks without the need to remove the unit. Trim rocker on. If yes, advance if no, continuous alarm (obvious....) Trim light KFC 150 solid on Depress trim test button Trim light blinks 4 times. Each pulse represents a "TO PULSE" and "RETURN PULSE" to the A/P computer. Place you hand on the trim servo to verify the pulses. If pass, Check..... CWS... Open contact Trim Up...Open contact Trim Down...Open contact A/P disconnect. Checks for 28VDC back to the A/P computer. N/C switch. Also checks the Gyro for centering. Was told it could not be greater than 20 degrees off center. Can't do this visually but you should verify its spinning. If all good above there should be a audible tone of 5 beeps indicating system passed. It was suggested I remove the top hat on the yoke and clean the switch contacts with a high grade electronic spray. I did this and so far all has worked well...on the ground. Will try in flight this week... Rick

I paid 6.5K installed with the single antenna setup. Integrates well with the G530W. The weather overlay resolution sucks but that's not the 88's problem. Just old screen technology on the 530. I do wish the end user had more control over the Traffic Alerts and when they are triggered..... The folks at Garmin said their algorithm is proprietary and locked into their firmware! Just be aware GDL88 firmware updates ARE NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY! Rick

Started in 83 in a Piper Tomahawk. That environment was so loud the speaker was set to HI at all times. To converse to a passenger you would literally need to scream. I couldn't afford (or thought I needed one) a headset till the early 90's and it was the basic D/C. I thought that was the best thing on the planet until I purchased the Bose ANR. Yes....batteries do wear out....so just keep some extra near by. I personally have become spoiled this technology. If I am in the plane for any length of time having the headset operative is a must. From a safety standpoint we all have to admit hearing clearly makes us much better pilots. Much better than anticipating ATC instructions of having to think about what you thought was heard! I really like the hard wire setup..... Thanks for sharing that! Rick

I know (we all know) so may pilots who want to continue their way of life! I sincerely hope our representatives temporarily remove their heads from their ass and vote this Bill in!!!! Rick

Thanks! Call Autopilot Central tomorrow....

I get 4 flashes on the trim light, FD bar stays up on the AI, 6 beeps on the audible annunciation and the AP light on the AP blinks... when all is OK. On a failure, the FD bar on the AI drops out and all lights on the AP go off. If the trim rocker switch is off, I get a continuous pulsing audible annunciation. If I move this aircraft before conducting the test..... get ready to hand fly! I've tried resetting the trim rocker switch and the breaker with ZERO success. Just made a big label !!!!!! TRIM TEST BEFORE TAXI..... I know if the aircraft is stationary, it test OK the first time. I'm just trying to understand why. All the books says is contact a service center if the trim test fails....... The previous owner told me it did this to him as well. I've got some AP experience with STEC but none with the KFC 150. Looking for Normal or Not..... Thanks! Rick

I am recently getting intermittent TRIM failures when initializing the KFC 150 AP test. Reading the book it refers to an internal test is done on the servos and if the system passes the trim indication light will blink 4 times and you will receive an audible tone 6 times along with 12 blinks from the AP indicator. Well lately its hit or miss...... One thing for sure... if you fail to do this check before taxi you cannot get this system to engage until the aircraft is on the ground and completely stationary with control surfaces neutral..... I have tried pulling the fuse, turning off the trim switch... to reset, everything I could assume could be done...... What am I missing? Now... when it does work, its SOLID as a rock! Is this correct or does it sound like there is something wrong or going in that direction? Thanks for your input. Well appreciated! Rick

Didn't read the entire string so this was possibly mentioned..... Before removing the filter... Purchase a Form a Funnel...... Maneuver the funnel below the attachment point of the Filter and the Case Use an awl to pop a hole in the Oil Filter Rotate the hole to the Form a Funnel Drain the Oil filter Place a plastic zip-lock bag around the oil filter Remove the filter You WILL save a lot of clean up!! Rick

I use a product call USC Aluminum Filler or Ever-coat Gold. With the new FORD Aluminium Body trucks on the market aluminum filler is readily available. Go to a Paint and Body supply store. A typical auto parts store probably won't carry it. Bottom line.... make sure its formulated for aluminum adhesion. If not, it will lift over time and you cannot feather-edge into the surrounding metal. In other words, it will look like you filled the crater but the circular ridge will be view-able....... Rick

Yes.... but the end result is based on if you can get behind the dent. Like I mentioned..... Few and Far Between. Re-skinning is a very expensive process. If a paint job is on the horizon, filling the dent is the best option. I've repainted several aircraft with multiple dings and dents and only use 1/2-1 quart of filler. It really doesn't take much. If you go that path be sure to use etching filler designed for aluminum surfaces. The correct filler sticks very well to aluminum and feathers nicely. Just an opinion but it saves time and A LOT of money..... If a paint job is near! Rick

Before the Mooney I had a 172 that was in a minor hail storm. After attempts with either Dry Ice, Heat Guns and even a Vacuum pump with a suction cup in conjunction with the dry ice and the heat gun the most success I had was with a .5" Dia. rod 36" long with a rubber tip on the end. Most of the dents were reachable through inspection hatches and could be pushed out. Be very careful..... One can do more harm than good. Get a light positioned in a place in which you can really determine EXACTLY where you are pushing up! There are sever folks who remove dents like this for a living. Depending on the severity, they usually charge from $25-50 per dime dent. A lot cheaper than breaking the Paint! The theory behind the dry ice is it is supposed to reverse the impact stress by rapidly cooling the surface area in a specific targeted location. I have seen this work with small imperfections on thinner control surface skins. I have had limited success, but it did actually work when I used a small shop vac after cooling. You can hear the pop when it does actually work! Few and far between! I have always wondered what a metallurgist would have to say about using this methodology??????? Does aluminum fully recover after being hit with such a rapid D/T? Rick

I add MMO based off the label recommendations. I have use it in every aircraft I've owned along with several others I know in aviation. It's proven itself to me but is definitely a personal choice. When I initially purchased the Mooney I did not use it. Just happened to have some in the cabinet, used it and the fluctuation ended. I question it myself to whether this actually fixed something that was sticking mechanically, but the difference is real, no more bouncing on the instrument gauge! It's the only two dots I can connect........ Rick

I've had the Mooney now for about 2.5 years. Flown her about ~250 hours. At first, I was waiting 50 hour cycles to do the regular oil, oil filter, air filter change and clean the plugs and any other normal stuff under the cowl. Being new to this engine, I started with 15W-50 as recommended by the previous shop. The engine had a tendency to operate very close to 400F CHT on #3 even on a somewhat cool day. On a hot day the cowl flaps had to trail slightly open. Other CHT's were in the 375F range. A senior Mooney flyer/AP/IA told me to switch to 100W+ and it would help with CHT's. It did help get the CHT's down to a manageable range without having to run with the cowl flaps trailing. Engine has 1080 Hours on it and compression's are in the mid to high 70's. I run slightly LOP. Here is the trend I am seeing..... Fill with 7 quarts Engine will hold 6.5 quarts for the first ~5 hours of operation Slow drop from 6.5 to 6 quarts from ~5-10 hours of operation At ~10 hours of operation the engine will not hold anything above 6 quarts As time increases, oil usage increases as well, about .25 Quarts per 1 hour of run time Is this a normal oil usage cycle? What are you seeing.... Thanks for your input. Rick

Yeah me too...... But no kidding. I can't pinpoint it, but that's the ONLY change in routine. If you're old-school, you know MMO can perform miracles!!!

I went through this issue........ Happened when the tank levels got below 10 gallons. The reading was all over the place. This will be difficult to believe......BUT, since I started adding Marvel Mystery Oil on a regular basis the sending units have been rock solid at any level. Sticky sensors..... Don't know. Do know there was a visual change and is now working on the panel and tank gauges. Coincidence or real? Rick

Get the good stuff from Radio Shack. Triple the price but really safe on electronics. I would stay away from CRC or any other Auto parts brands. Rick

Agree! Sucks!

It was described as heavy control inputs, not a force. And yes, you can fly the airplane with a finger and a thumb, but no matter how you look at it.... it takes higher input pressure to get the airplane to respond in the roll axis. I was curious to why, as my question was more directed toward the mechanical design not flying technique. Byron is quite right about the roll axis. The Mooney yoke full travel is fairly small in terms of angular displacement for full aileron travel. Rick