Releew

Soft scrub in a nonspray bottle. Use it on a rag. Scrub. Wipe off with a wet rag. The slightly abrasive media cleans deep.

Thanks all... Great comments and I learned from it. Wasn't complaining....just curious! This is a Rock Solid bird!!!!! Rick

Thanks!

Just curious to know why Mooney's require heavy control inputs. I've got a few hours is several type of aircraft and the Mooney just feels heavy. I've flown the C and J models and don't really see that much difference in control. I tried to explain it away to myself and pointed to the tubes as the reasoning for the heavy control inputs, but if that were the case, the RV4, 6 and 7 would maybe feel the same. I know we're talking different airplanes with two completely different wing designs but if you've had your hands on other birds I think you would agree. So...what is it? The tight feel is great but the control force seems to take higher user input than most. Curious! Rick

Used a heat gun..... Harbor Freight. Rick

Not really..... Just got it really hot. I had an oven mitt (ov-glove) on and as was able to push on the plastic to the point I could move it. At that point, I place it flat side down on a granite counter top and place an OAK wooden block on the warped area with a 20LB barbell on it. The next morning when it was cool 90% or more of the warp was gone..... Rick

Its the same plastic.... Follow the same procedures. My shield was warped in the middle at the cut for the center tube. I used a heat gun very carefully to get the plastic really soft, then quickly placed it on a flat surface with an Oak wooden block and a 20 pound weight on it. When it cooled is was pretty close to factory. Rick

If you are trying to fill or fix an over-sized hole place Blue Painters tape on the topside of the plastic part to create a mold (backstop) for the CA glue on the backside of the plastic. From the backside of the part place some glue on the tape that covered the hole then apply the fiberglass tape and another coat of CA glue. Remove the Painters tape from the front of the plastic part. The adhesive on the painters tape will melt when you spray the CA glue accelerator and separate very easy from the plastic part. Email me if you need some help... Rick

To fix plastic, get some CA glue, known in the modeling world as Hot Stuff. Get the accelerator too. Clean with acetone and sand the back of the area that's cracked and line up the seam. Cut a piece of Bidirectional Fiberglass tape (you can buy in a small 1.5" width X 36" roll) place over the crack (Backside) and soak the tape with the CA clue. Use a piece of plastic on your finger (IMPORTANT) to smooth out the glue on the tape than spray the accelerator. There will be a chemical reaction and the glue will instantly set so be sure the crack seam is perfectly aligned. This method also works well to fix over sized holes in plastic. When I refurbished my plastic I covered every holes backside with a 1" square piece of fiberglass tape using this method. It made the installation very solid. This works very well...... It won't crack in that spot again!!! Rick

There are a few different approaches to painting plastic. Although there are paints made specifically for plastic application they are very expensive...in the $75.00 a quart range. These paints are usually made up with additional solvents that promote surface bonding. Spray the plastic too wet and you'll see what I mean. It can and will melt the plastic. For a beginner I would not recommend these paints. There are some Spray Can paints (Krylon for plastic) that have specific colors which work very well on plastic. Only problem is you need to accept their assortment of colors which is limited. I also tried Rustoleum paints and found them to be too heavy of a build up for the grain with very little if any adhesion on plastic. They looked good initially but started to peal after a short time. Either path you take make sure the surface prep is done correctly. Clean the panels first with a good de-greaser and a scrub brush. Before painting, use a quick dry solvent like acetone on a damp rag. I also recommend spraying a bonding agent on the surface before painting. Any dirt on the plastic will decrease the solvents ability to melt in and create a fish-eye problem just like painting on top of contaminated metal....... Just remember..... its a Surface Coating. It will be susceptible to scratches and erosion from contact points. Good Luck! Rick

Inside was fine..... Top hat was worn down! Rick

OK Thanks...... Need to see if they purchased already. Rick

Still available? Rick

I had a cabin light left on dim.....twice!!! Trickle (deep cycle) charged and the battery was fine. Rick

What oil are you running? I went from 15w-50 to 100w and the temperature consistently runs 30F cooler..... Rick

Yep..... But this site, and well....most of the folks on here are very helpful. Outside of this site, I do not see any good resources available to troubleshoot a problem. If you call a shop they just want you to bring it in....obviously. I have a great AP/IA that works with me but he leaves it to me to do the research. This site allows me to at least get basic feedback from folks who have in-depth experience, focused on this aircraft. That's the best possible path to identify and troubleshoot any problem......experience. I've been flying for a while rentals and my own aircraft but having a Mooney is quite a different adventure! Rick

Don.... Thanks for the feedback! Actually pretty easy. (for a change) Inspection hatch is located right behind the entire mechanism. Looks like a standard micro-switch. Rick

Just went through this................... I went back with Barry mounts..... Everyone I called only had new old stock for the bottom Lord mounts. When I look at the mounts side by side the Barry mounts seem to be more robust. Two mechanics also requested the Barry mounts stating there were stronger and more resistant to sagging. When I was comparing prices the Barry mounts were $135.00 per mount and the Lords were less. Changing the mounts made a great difference in vibration reduction. I knew they needed changing based on how the spinner aligned to the cowl but did not realize it would make that much of a difference! My thrust line was down and engine was tilted down and to the left. The plane always had a left roll tendency....now gone! Document your position of the shims when doing the removal. This is an All day three person job! The left lower mount is the most difficult. Good Luck! Rick

It was the Micro-switch behind the vane. Jump it and got the tone. Thanks for everyone's input. . Rick

Did you forget to type something?

Thanks! Will put a meter on it tomorrow! Rick

Stall horn was working fine and decided to stop. Does anyone have an exploded diagram view/schematic of how the switch and or entire circuit works? Breaker is in and the metal tab is making contact at the bottom and top within the slide. What else is in the circuit? Thanks, Rick

I would not recommend it......... PITA as you say! I recently took the time a repainted my LE. Taped off about 3" back from the LE. Found a rivet line to get a straight run. Use 220 grit Wet Sandpaper to get out all the chips. Came back with etching primer then sprayed with Nason Polyurethane. Pulled the tape off wet and used an aerosol spray call "Fade" to soften the line. Looks really nice and is very easy to spot paint. Rick

Thanks for all the input. Local avionics shop won.... Rebuilt 256 on the shelf. Total about 2.5K installed and aligned. One year Warranty...... Hope to get 1000 hours out of it. Why.... Didn't want to be in the first iteration of the 300. What I have now with the 530 and the GDL88 installed is more than what I need. I liked the Aspen twin pack but could not justify the expense. Thanks Again...... Rick

Get 3M adhesive remover in a spray can. Spray area heavily and cover with plastic (keeps the solvent from flashing off in warm weather). Wait and hour.... Start removal process. Use a Blow Dryer.... NOT heat Gun to assist. It will help maintain elasticity and keep the plastic from constantly breaking. Mineral Spirits works great to get of any residual. Rick