Steve W

As primary there are no exclusions. "6. The remote alarm light is a Red or Yellow light depending on the alarm condition. The EDM-900 incorporates a single light that alerts the pilot that a problem existing within the engine. This light is placed in with the primary flight instruments and is required for primary installation. It is a single light that changes color with condition and the label associated with the light must be lit by a post light or such that you can see the word “ENGINE”."

Well, that's good because it's required if the EDM 900 is used as a primary instrument.

And we're done. In case anyone is curious as to what it looks like to haul a Mooney.

This is almost entirely due to the hobby trackers that feed those sites not having 978/UAT receivers yet.

We know. It won't. The GFC 'brains' are mostly in the G5/G3x/Eventually GI 275 with some smarts in the servos themselves. The Autopilot Box is simply a control interface.

AC 91-75 says you can replace the TC with an Attitude Indicator with a Ball, but does require different power sources. In my case that was going to be an RC Allen 2610 with their backup battery and screw-on ball. Now they have an updated 2610 with an internal battery, digital ball and digital rate of turn indicator and I think that's what I'd go with(honestly finding a place to put the external battery was a pain)

Relay? There is no relay. It's directly powering the servos. It's under-rated and almost certainly getting the inductive kickback when it disengages the servos. If they had actually used a relay we'd not have this thread, especially if they put a diode on it. I'd have put a scope on it but I really didn't care that much. In mine the Autopilot(KAP-150) wouldn't power up and would just beep repeatedly until you pulled the breaker. Sometimes it would re-engage when the breaker was reconnected but eventually that even stopped working.

All mine to do with as I please, and by that I mean sell. The additional amount they offered to take care of it themselves was way less than I hope it's worth.

And to expand on this you should report the change in value as soon as you write the check not once the engine/plane is back in your hands(and certainly not 30 days later at insurance renewal time)... for obvious reasons. Well, unless you use one of those fancy shops that has their own insurance then maybe it's less of a concern.

I/the plane are at Newport, OR(KONP) the engine is still up in the Portland area(but no longer in a ditch on the side of the road)

Here's the statement in my policy: What is an aircraft? Your aircraft includes your airplane or rotorcraft and any operating, navigating or radio equipment that's usually attached to the aircraft. Parts of your aircraft that are temporarily removed are also included even if replaced by similar parts.

For those of you who have been playing along at home, this is the final wrap-up of my Mooney saga. In February 2018 my 1994 M20J suffered a pilot caused gear collapse and that turned out to be the least of my problems. I obtained quotes from a reputable MSC as well as a semi-local well respected Mooney mechanic who the insurance adjuster recommended. The Mechanic was chosen to do the work, received an initial payment to purchase parts and proceeded to get the aircraft in my hangar(the incident occurred at my home field), then removed the engine and took it to the local well-known engine shop. A few months in the slightly over mid-time engine was found to have some issues not related to the prop strike so I elected to upgrade to a full overhaul. The Mechanic picked up the engine in mid March 2019 and at some point between picking it up and getting it to his shop to re-attach the accessories he suffered an auto accident which involved his pickup flipping and my engine ending up in the ditch. The engine was returned to the engine shop where they quoted basically another prop strike teardown, Lycoming also had no other guidance on "So your engine fell out of the back of a truck." It was found that the Mechanic had no insurance on his 'shop' and his personal auto insurance would not cover it. Luckily my aircraft insurance did agree that my policy did cover it as part of the "parts removed from the aircraft" coverage. At this point I had retained a lawyer to see if there was any recourse against the Mechanic's auto insurance but there was nothing there. About this time(June-ish 2019) the Mechanic died. Subsequent inquiries by myself, my lawyer and the insurance company into the parts that were supposed to have been purchased found that other than the original prop tear-down inspection payment to the engine shop there were no parts purchased and the Mechanic's Estate(he was a 1 man operation) had no assets. I got another repair quote from an on-field mechanic who appeared to be in better health, but was not a Mooney expert. This quote was sent to insurance who then tried to claim that the initial payment to the previous mechanic would be deducted. After some legal intervention using lots of big legal words including the word "lawsuit" my lawyer finally convinced the insurance company that they should probably just call that a loss and pay for the repair. The problem was that both my new Mechanic and Engine shop both had the usual caveat of "Initial estimate only, was not disassembled, may be further hidden damage" Which the Insurance Company was not happy with as the number was already my policy limit. So at the end of the day I told the insurance company to just write the check, paid off the lien on the aircraft, and deposited the rest. And now I have an almost certainly repairable/project Mooney for sale. I'll list it officially as soon as the lien release shows up.

My gear collapse, on a 1994 M20J which was probably a bit more damaging than yours since it was in-motion ranged from about $80k from the guy who got the job and then failed at it up to $120k from a reputable MSC. No one knows what the final bill would have been because I and the insurance finally just gave up and had them send me a check.

Mine was about 10% additional premium 2 years ago(and then 10%, and then 10% again) I'd sure have rather had a working plane than the insurance check 2 years later, provided it arrives one of these days.

I believe that's the KFC 200, not the 150. The 150 just has a normal button on the autopilot control head.

Things I miss about the office when I work from home: noisy coworkers, noisy HVAC systems, poor temperature control, a view of other concrete buildings, cubicles, way too bright fluorescent lights, hellish commutes. Admittedly I've been working from home for years now. And except for when a customer needs me on-site for a few days I have no intention to ever go back to an office on a regular basis.

I suspect one incandescent or halogen bulb on the nav light circuit would be enough to make the dimming circuit happy, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

It's pretty simple. Just figure out where the virtual cuts need to be on this design, adjust the socket mounting hole location for the bulb you want to use, adjust the width of the model to properly fit the friction fit mounts in the Mooneys, print in high temp resin, reflectorize the reflector(powder coat maybe, doesn't have to be great just more or less reflective...), find a suitable LED bulb and EM/RFI/Safety test it. May only need a PMA instead of a full STC since it's designed to replace the original. Ok, maybe it's not that simple...

You are correct. It's described in the service manual I have in 24-39-06 pg 16. Depending on the model your A&P(if he understands electronics) should be able to put in a relay so 'CH1RET' goes to ground when the lights are off and +V when the nav lights are on without routing the signal through the lights.

So far for the wedge base automotive style bulbs I'd say about 75% are listed as up to 32v tolerant. Of the ones I've bought to play with so far all have survived throwing 30V at them for a long period. I also just got a 60V adjustable bench supply so I can see how high they'll really go if I get bored.

95% of the work takes 5% of the time, the other 5% takes 95% of the time.

Well, this is almost finally coming to a close. In other news, anyone want to buy half a Mooney? (The engine will be sold separately as it was overhauled, then involved in a traffic accident and is now back at the engine shop.)

And you're not going to get a G5 to display an ADF pointer unless it's a 'fake' GPS derived ADF. No analog inputs at all on the G5.

I suspect you're gonna need an ACU 2 either way. The RMI only takes analog inputs and the only way to get analog out of an Aspen is an ACU. It appears the RMI uses ARINC 407. Obviously the other option would be an un-slaved ADF head.

Exactly, if they assign 2 of you with similar speeds the same heading they're going to expect you to drift together. Otherwise you're going to get "Mooney 12345 Confirm Heading XYZ" You don't want to try and outsmart ATC.