Steve W

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About Steve W

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    Mooney

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  1. Don't dissolve HIPS with acetone, or your ABS model will go with it. I believe the recommended chemical is Limonene.
  2. Alternatively, the owner doesn't want the trees trimmed, the property owner can pay to have the lines put underground. Admittedly, this would require some actual laws with teeth which is unlikely in the land of NIMBY.
  3. I've heard unsubstantiated rumors that this is why manufacturers are no longer putting 'Turbo' branding on their new aircraft.
  4. Newport Oregon City Leased T-Hangar(Electric, Concrete Floor): $190/mo Owned Box Hangar: About $40k to buy from a previous owner, most need a new roof and/or siding(they're all wood) and the land lease I think is $0.25/sf Tie down(no one does that here): $40/month
  5. And it also shows how to do a Conditioning charge, but 22% may be beyond help.
  6. I think it's interesting that the FAA Document on Illegal Charters does pretty much everything except call out Blackbird by name. https://www.faa.gov/news/illegal_charter_operations/ I figure as an aircraft owner you're probably fairly safe if you can afford the 100 hour and enough insurance to protect yourself(how much does a 2 million smooth commercial policy run these days) On the other hand if you're wanting to be a pilot, I fully expect you'll be having a not so nice chat with the local FSDO once the FAA gets their legal ducks in a row.
  7. Turns out if you add 3 hours to every flight then your on-time arrival rate goes way up. Unless it's the Remote Terminal for American at LAX, then you'll still be late.
  8. It's a K type thermocouple(as you'll quickly find out if you try and extend it with anything except thermocouple wire) I'm sure someone else sells OAT probes like that, but they're not common. Luckily I had plenty of time to route the wing wiring for my A&P. And having done it in my attic, I'm getting pretty good at it, the one helpful thing was my little semi-flexible camera so I could see where the wire was when I missed the next hole.
  9. Nah, then he needs a G3X(with a G5 backup) and a GFC 500.
  10. I think the 900 might be too large(width) for the Strikefinder/Insight area. If so, then maybe a CGR-30p 30c pair. (Also, remember if you do get the JPI you can have the factory rotate the screen so it has a better viewing angle, recommended orientations are in the Install manual, mine needed to be reversed for optimal use.)
  11. I built my own, as you'll see in the search up thread. For my connection I bought the bare connector(3-PIN CESSNA AIRCRAFT EXTERNAL POWER PLUG) and soldered it. It would be far cheaper than the Plug&Jump unless you're like me and use heavy gauge wire and hook it to an Anderson power connector so I can swap it between the PDU and alligator clips(for battery attachment).
  12. Probably need a photo or a serial number. If it's the enclosed wingtip there are at least 3 different bulbs depending on if it's 12 or 24V and if it's been converted from the bi-pin to the wedge base, if it hasn't been converted it may be worth it. Luckily the cover(which is glass, since it's a tiny assembly and those stupid bulbs get HOT) only looks to be about $130. (68-4250066-30)
  13. The very very old AC 20-74 does talk about how color is measured. Basically where it falls on the CIE Chromacity Diagram. Not sure how much a meter would cost these days, a non-certified meter looks to be about $300... Of course if we're talking about standard parts then the manufacturer of the emitter should be able to provide the necessary data. Probably something like this: http://www.nichia.co.jp/en/product/led_color.html Which leads to an interesting question. Can I produce/have produced an LED bulb under owner produced parts? If I take the FAA specs to my local LED bulb maker and ask them to meet the following specs using these emitters, and test it after for proper color and brightness, does that make it legal?