ArtVandelay

I don't have a relay, on the back of the switch you will see its rating, I going to venture a guess it's like 2 or 5 amps, take the total current draw of you landing lights, if less than switch rating, then you don't need it.

So if the voltage at the battery is 12.8, power up the master, radio stack, re measure the battery voltage and compare with JPI, the JPI should be same or maybe .1 volts less. If it's more than .1 check the voltage at the radio switch, both sides, this will narrow down where the bad connection is.

I thought Concorde were AGMs? AGM have higher resting voltage. Voltage is ultimately effected by several factors including temperature, rest time since charge, and amount of drain. You son's car battery actually has a drain on it: clock, alarm, key receiver....assuming it was below 72F, both account for a lower readings then book. A plane battery should be idle, no load with master off unless somebody added a keep alive your clock, or you leave the cabin light on, both are hot wired If it's fully charged, the charging voltage will drop to about 13.2-13.5 This normally should happen with 30 minutes of flight. My plane has an ammeter, does OP, by pulling CBs he can verify he doesn't have a load on the system.

Does anybody have trouble with the rain coming into the cabin thru the vents?

I would think that would effect his starts.?

You need to open up the battery compartment and put a good digital voltmeter on it, it should read about 12.8 when idle. Pull the CB for the turn coordinator and the beacon, turn master on, it should not drop more than 0.1v, it's only powering the relay I would expect, the plane should be silent (radio avionics master is still off), if it drops to much more than that, you need to find what's drawing the power, as I said I suspect the voltage the JPI is seeing is not the true battery voltage, bad connection to power or to ground could cause it.

Before you start changing expensive items like alternators, voltage regulators, get a volt meter and double check the readings, measure the voltage at the battery and compare. What is it before you turn on the power, then turn on the power and compare to instrument panel reading. If it was really 11.7 I would think you wouldn't be able to start the engine. If it drops a lot when master is turned on, make sure you don't have pitot heat or some other heavy load on the system.

I wouldn't install an old 700, go with at least a modern 730, same installation cost either way.

I believe the next section schematics apply to the late models, the 28V systems, the only doc on the older versions is in service instruction 74.

I got my transition training (M20J) from Nick Eberling of New Heights Aviation, he is based at Goldsboro, NC. He is in the Air Force and I believe is flying with the Thunderbirds now so he may be too busy, I can PM you his phone # if you want.

There are special GPS NOTAMs which you have to ask for if calling for a briefing, and RAIM prediction. Other than that I think everything else similar to other approaches

Make sure they haven't worked on the plane before. Daytona has a MSC, they're probably cheaper than Premier

And of course a 10% lower HP doesn't translate into a 10% reduction of speed. A 5 hour trip at 75% is a 5:19 trip at 65%...how important is that 19 minutes?

I think it's better to find with high time on the engine, priced accordingly, then you don't have to worry about, every hour is a bonus.

I don't have trouble for the true hot starts, I have trouble with the 45-90 minute starts, do I do the hot start method, do I do a cold start method, do I try to blend the two methods?

A month or so there was someone who posted they got a complete reseal for less than $2000, for that much I would with a reseal.

The problem is there are : 10 minute fuel,pickup restarts 30 minute bathroom, fuel restarts 60 minute lunch restarts 90 minute combo of all the above What may work for 10 restart doesn't work for the 60-90 minute restart When does a restart go from hot to warm to cold?

I hope he wasn't changing cylinders just because of a low compression reading?! They are notorious for being inconsistent and not a good indicator of cylinder health, Mike Busch has gone into this in great detail.

He crashed only about a mile from the airport, on what looks to be final for 23 or 27.

The version I have only includes wiring diagrams, the manual refers to separate drawings, but does include a nice troubleshooting section 24-39-05, unfortunately without corresponding drawings might be problematic.

I use my 2nd nav for VOR (since in real life I would use it if by GPS was down), Since it's not connected to HSI, it's a bit different, different equipment, different display, different enough to throw one in when getting current.

Could be a capacitor as well, they can be checked with a fluke meter.

Which audio panel do you have? And also make sure the in cabin speaker is off. Some panels cut a channel if one headset is in mono mode, but I can't see why that would cause this problem, but it's worth a try, just make sure all headsets are set the same way.

Exactly.

The 2nd of the two shows the FF drop nicely, at the risk of insulting you, you didn't change fuel tanks at that time?