Ragsf15e

My 20:1 gears were replaced ~5500 hours ttaf. Im not sure about the maintenance prior because it wasn’t mine yet. They eventually wear out but do appear robust.

Weird how they are different. I do t&gs on occasion too and it doesn’t seem bad to me. I still think it could be perception… if you are trimmed for ~80mph on final, you should still be trimmed for 80mph on takeoff. I doubt you’d stall, but I agree youd have to trim forward as you accelerate above 80.

Well sure, but suppose your to setting and mine are not the same but our landing settings are… maybe our planes feel a little different on takeoff and we’re just use to it? Try leaving your setting from landing and taking off with it. I suspect it’ll feel different but fine.

That little trim indicator is pretty much infinitely adjustable and you can probably set it to show “takeoff trim” no matter where your trim is set. Possibly ours is just set slightly differently. Or maybe we have different empty cg? Or possibly it’s the extra 5mph i carry? I’m normally 80mph target on final?

Well I think your 252 is a totally different beast than the older E/F/Js I think we were talking about. Hanging a bigger engine out front could change where that trim setting is. Fwiw, my F varies a little bit with me in front (fwd cg) vs loaded up with aft cg, but not more than the thickness of my trim indicator. Trimmed for takeoff is trimmed for landing. One other thing that probably affects it… I almost always use full flaps on landing. Maybe it would be different on a nf or to flap landing?

I can make book in a descent. My 3 blade speed brake hurts cruise.

Could be either manual or electric gear. That throttle switch works the same. I also haven’t heard the pucks causing these symptoms…

Mine is typically at the takeoff setting when trimmed for landing as well.

Yeah, I’ve had that happen. Good chance your throttle switch is stuck. It’s a small micro switch attached to the throttle, just behind the panel. Pretty accessible from underneath.maybe just lube and exercise, maybe it needs adjusting or came loose from its spot. Also, there should be a gear warning cb that will shut off that horn if it stays on because it will sap every drop of SA you might have.

My ~50 year old airspeed indicator also indicates a few knots fast at cruise speeds. Maybe not 6, but ~3-4. I found it the same way you did.

Those numbers seem pretty good to me. You didn’t say what the outside temp was, but a hot day (high density altitude) will be slower at those altitudes. Your peak ff seems pretty normal to me for 6500’. Try going just leannof peak, not far, but maybe 10-20 degrees. Lose 4 knots and another.5gal of ff.

That would be dependent on the bus voltage (but not equal to it). Zeftronics has a pretty good troubleshooting guide on their website that goes through expected voltage and resistance at different points. I’m thinking field wire was 10.5-11.5 but don’t quote that.

If there is, you can count on paying it even if it’s a private, person to person deal. The tax people will keep an eye on faa registry and aircraft locations. They will eventually find you. Live in Washington and had to pay “use tax” when I moved here. I did not have to pay sales tax when i bought it in Texas, so just moving can trigger a tax. It’s very state dependent.

It doesn’t affect insurance but does/may affect the ability of a new buyer to finance the airplane. Different lenders have limits on the % of engine hours / tbo. I’ve heard 75% or 20 years equals no financing.

You’re looking at ~13mpg (Ovation) vs 15mpg (M20F) vs maybe 16mpg (M20J). It’s different but not a ton and there’s maybe some higher altitude options with the bigger motors that could cut into the difference.

That’s where my IA got his little container!

I mean @N201MKTurbo rich answered it well, but once it’s on jacks, you can hold the nosewheel straight while wiggling the linkage to see exactly where it’s coming from. Mine would “wander” a bit while taxiing and the new bolt/shim was back ordered (I did finally get it) so my IA shimmed it and it’s so much better. There are lots of rod ends, bolts, shims that can affect it, so make sure it’s nailed down before throwing parts at it (or wait until it’s worse). Now that I think about it, I think we actually held the linkage still while wiggling the nose gear (up on jacks) to see where the loose parts were.

I had mine changed a few years ago, and you’re right, he just hot swapped them. Said he did it all the time.

Jeez, I have older G5s, maybe 4.5 years old? The batteries have been great the whole time. No issues and they pass the ica easily with close to 4 hours remaining.

I might consider just landing at RMN or HWY or similar just outside the special use airspace depending on which way you’re coming from. It’s not terrible to use closer ones, but it’s very busy, more expensive, and you’re actually pretty close to DC from those outer airports. If you have a compelling reason to go into the bubble, it’s doable but will take more effort in planning and more care in flying the busy airspace (and likely more parking/fuel $$).

I agree with @ArtVandelay, at least on my 930 (from 2012, but updated), there’s pre alarms. I set them up… they were a confusing pia to set up, but they are available on the 930.

I agree. The current level won’t hurt you but it definitely indicates something isn’t right. Especially since it changed. Traditionally co comes in through the heater muff so maybe start there (boescope?), but a leak in the engine compartment will bleed through gaps in the firewall as well. Start at the exhaust riser connections and look over the whole exhaust.

These guys got you straightened out. Don’t run peak on the leanest. If you run peak on the richest, the others are by definition lean of peak and should be cooler. The converse leaves 3 cylinders in a bad spot just rich of peak. If you want raw speed, closest relatively safe power setting is around 100 rich of peak from the leanest. In all cases, keep an eye on your chts as they should remain below 400ish (I keep mine below 380ish). If you’re at peak/lop, leaner is cooler. If you’re rop, richer is cooler. Egt values are pretty meaningless. You just need to know what order the cylinders hit their peaks and how far you are on either side of peak for the richest (running lop) or leanest (running rop). Your gami spread is the difference in ff from first peak to last. The tighter that is, the easier it is to get all the cylinders near the same setting (peak, lop or rop) which helps it run smoothly. Typically this is more important at peak or lop. Ask if you have more questions!

Yes, but @AndreiC and I were replying to @0TreeLemur saying that 10.3gph was around 70rop at 8500. In my experience, my ff is higher than that there. Maybe if it’s very hot?

Yes, I’ve noticed the TAF doesn’t do a good job of taking smoke into account and the sensors don’t seem to match flight visibility very well for METARs either. I’ve had that same experience of shooting an approach to 3/4 mile vis mins while the TAF and metar said I shouldn’t even be close to mins. Never mind all the crap we’re breathing while doing it…