Ragsf15e

You can use either but the g5 is designed to work with the g3x and is full function where the 275 is limited in coordination with the g3x.

If you’re pricing 2xgi275s, might want to also consider the smaller g3x as it displays similar information as the aspen on one screen like the aspen and doesn’t cost a lot more than 2x GI275s.

Knowing where to draw your personal mins is tough. And even when you have them, they’re “made up” by you and can be “adjusted” by you. Yes, I know, hard and fast. Never deviate. It’s a slippery slope. Its scary because 3 times in the last month, I’ve used the rule about “seeing approach lights” at DH and continuing down to 100’ before seeing the runway or termination bars. Now I fly for a living which doesn’t mean I’m better at this flying thing than anyone else, but I’m very current, experienced, and the airplane is well equipped. So am I a bad person? Am I misleading myself and putting my passengers and my life in danger? I want to think not. I follow the rules. I want to think I really would have gone around if I hadn’t seen the runway at 100’. In each case, I had a divert plan and fuel available. In each case, the rvr was slightly Below mins, but I saw the lights at or slightly above DH. These were big airports with strobes and very bright lighting. Ever see the little note that allows rvr reduction if using a coupled approach, hud or FD to mins? What about an ILS and LPV to the same runway, same mins, but the lpv has that note for the lower rvr (KHIO ILS13 vs RNAV 13). It’s 600’ less rvr. 25% less vis required. I’m not saying most people should have personal mins this low, but someone does. If person, equipment, etc is right it can be safe. It’s hard to figure out when you think you’re 100% and maybe you’re not. -135 ops can definitely have different mins. Depends on their opsspec. Might depend on the PICs time and currency too. To me that would be good information to know he went missed but not a show stopper. Now do I want to do this in my Mooney with an stec30A? No. Have I shot approaches to mins in the Mooney? Yes, a couple of times in 3/4nm vis in smoke (daytime). Would I do it again? It depends. Things like turbulence, night, precip, airport lighting, currency, workday, etc all add up. Do you take every possible factor into account with your personal mins every time? It’s hard. Clearly the personal mins applied here (if any) were not appropriate since the results speak for themselves. There were obvious cues. We wouldn’t all make the same choices even with all those same cues. Trying to load the approach on your gns430w in bad weather at night probably isn’t a good time to consider your personal mins or the decisions you might make. It has to be before the flight and you have to be honest with yourself when you need to do something different. It’s hard though. Remember that. This guy didn’t takeoff thinking he would end up shutting down power to 500k people while dangling 200’ up.

You’ll find unlimited opinions. If it’s really cold, corrosion is stopped/slowed even if water is on metal. There’s some good charts for this on another thread. If you can keep the whole engine warm, that likely works fine too. I let mine cool down after flying and use a space heater attached to a dryer vent hose to heat into the cowl flaps the evening before I fly. I use a gsm switch like switcheon but it’s a different kind. Name escapes me right now. European. Sorry. Either way, you’ll likely be fine.

Hang in there. It gets better when you get all the bugs worked out.

Got new parts from Lasar today. Steering horn and gear truss came from them, so I called and they said they knew what to send… There are only 1/4” of threads on the whole bolt and the nut is close to that thick. No way you get two threads past. And no cotter pin still… I think there are many variations of nose gear assembly out there.

Obviously you want the alarm adjusted properly. Definitely below 15”. The other technique @A64Pilot mentioned works well to slow down. Descend, level off, pull up very slightly with the low power setting. You will quickly slow and be able to drop the gear. But I have an F with 120mph gear speed so what do I know?

Always try to keep the magic smoke inside the electronics. They won’t work if you let it out.

Not as elegant as the cable, but if you do as @N201MKTurbo suggested, you don’t remove the top of the battery box. Remove tail access cover (which isn’t too bad to replace), then hook the cables up as he instructed. Both of those connections are outside the battery box. As I said, the cable for the ground power is better but just the tail access panel isn’t bad.

And doesn’t have Camguard. It’s got a Lycoming anti scuff additive. I’m just saying that because if you’re a Camguard fan, you’ll still need to add camguard.

Well sheesh Clarence! No wonder there’s a parts shortage! Your engine needs all the parts!

Just be careful (or cognizant) about the places that are actually colder than the rest of the airplane due to the low pressure airflow around them (obviously pitot tube is heated). It seems every airplane has its “cold spot” where you’ll first notice ice. Maybe it’s more noticeable on fast aircraft? On the F-15, we’d look out the wing at the round “glass” seeker head on the AIM-9 missile (inert, but still a real seeker head for training). You would always get ice there a couple degrees before it started creeping up the windscreen.

Yeah, maybe. Icing is fickle enough that there’s a good chance of coming down 30 miles away and seeing nothing. Isn’t that the rule of 3s? 30 miles, 3000’ or something like that? Anyway, I don’t recommend being stupid about it as our planes aren’t good at all in icing, but coming down through 1000’ of cold clouds at say 6000’agl when there’s warm air below and no recent pireps seems ok. I flew a (fiki) small turboprop airplane out of Seattle on Tuesday. It snowed most of the morning and then 36 degrees rain. Much colder above. I knew I needed to get above about 18k to get above the ice for sure. I was pretty sure we would have ice from 1000’ and up. Imc the whole way. Zero ice all the way to 21,000’. Icing is weird.

Where are you located, I’m gonna come to your shop for mx!

Like if there’s 3 pireps and an airmet for ice, then maybe it’s not a good day to “check it out”. However, if it’s just cold and cloudy, yet you have a good “out” plan (maybe vfr and warm below you?) and don’t plan to cruise in it, maybe it’s ok to blast through a layer…

Excellent info, thanks.

They are relatively easy to keep in the cg envelope at all loads. You may find it easy to be on the forward side of the envelope with 2 big front seaters, nothing behind, and the bigger engine/prop combos. However, just put a box of oil in the luggage and you’re good. Going out the back is tough. Especially since it’s hard to put really big people in the backseat. I have an F with ~1050 UL, 64 gallons of gas. I have two 60 lb kids and my wife is ~135. Anyone can sit anywhere, even with full 120lbs in the luggage and we’re not even close. It even works with me and my wife in the back and the kids up front (although they can’t see over the dash and their airmanship is troubling so far). I did have to reduce the luggage to 50lbs for that one - it’s probably not too safe to let 7 year old twins “co captain” anyway.

I’ve got an F, so different. However, if not perfectly coordinated in a power on stall (I usually use a good bit of power to simulate departure), it will definitely want to roll. Mine will go either direction depending on which side your ball is off (even slightly). One nice thing to note is how aggressive the pull must be to stall it and the significant warning (buffet, horns, etc). Another thing to try is to stall in a decent turn by pulling into an accelerated stall. It’s good to see what the bank does to you and how it feels/reacts.

I have seen that happen after loading new data but not completely restarting after it’s been loaded on both the pfd and mfd. it even shows that the data is the same on aux/sys pages but i had that error until turning everything off and starting up from scratch.

You’re not gonna see much (any) difference in a turbo as the sf is set to fixed timing just like the mags. Possible it might improve starting, but it’s subtle.

You can zoom in on his gi275 ADI and see the airplane pitch oscillate a degree or two. Doesn’t look like altitude is really changing but id bet it’s annoying and uncomfortable.

If anyone on MS had this happen to them and wasn’t injured, they better be courageous enough to make some posts on the thread while awaiting rescue! ps, I really hope they are ok.

Yikes.

Obviously it can be done, but you’re prudent to be cautious and think it through. The only time I’ve broken down on the road was a master cylinder leak. I found a mechanic on the field who had the proper O rings on hand and rebuilt the brakes the next morning. I had soft/squishy/50% effective left brakes until my home mechanic spent an hour with the plane tilted back working on it. It was fine after that. So clearly it can be done ok, but, yes, it can be a pain if you’re in a rush.

Yeah, fair enough. I just like to make sure they are all at least slightly past peak, but at the higher altitude I usually fly, it wouldn’t hurt either way.