Ragsf15e

In addition to the junkyards I’d definitely be on the phone to both Lasar locations and Dan to see if they are still doing any instead of all of us guessing. And Maxwell and Topgun as they probably see a lot and know what to do for parts.

Taxi back from Night currency in Spokane. Did it IFR as I’m allergic to the rocks.

I agree. I think up that high giving up more power by reducing rpm isn’t worth it.

Agree. I have had the outboard one stick once or twice after refueling and only indicate about 15 gallons. Taxing over a few small bumps and it unstuck. Never had any issues getting accurate readings in flight. Do you have ff and a totalizer? Having that to compare to gages is really helpful. 2 separate accounts of your fuel state.

Just curious, how’s your contract if you find a deal breaker? Are you forfeiting the deposit money? Depending on the amount, it might be worth it to forfeit, or maybe you don’t have to because it’s an airworthy issue and the owner won’t fix it?

Just to be a bit contrarian, my factory senders work great. They were OHd when the prior owner put in a jpi930, and they are accurate down to +-1 gallon as far as i can tell. Close enough for me since I never want to get close to needing more accuracy. I think you’ll find that your gages aren’t going to read very well even with accurate senders. And cies senders won’t work with those gages anyway.

Try calling them. Maybe get better results.

To the OP, you can find the owners address and name on the faa website and write them a letter. You might get lucky.

Solution is a simple avionics upgrade to a primary engine monitor and get rid of the factory probe! Should be no more than $10,000-$50,000 depending on options. (Tongue in cheek)

Here’s a few threads on this. Don’t over tighten if it’s the gasket.

If tightening the screw’s doesn’t work, you can move to changing the gasket there. We’ve got some threads around here on that… need @carusoam to find them though!

It’s been a while since I purchased, but I think it’s common to have a signed contract and deposit before any prebuy starts anyway. I definitely agree with that. Depending on the contract, the owner keeps the deposit if the buyer backs out for certain reasons. You’re also right that the owner should be compensated for flying the aircraft down there or paying someone else to.

I guess it’s lucky he’s not buying from you. It’s a 3 hour flight, but to a well known/respected msc. I’d actually prefer that if I was the seller. Better than someone completely unknown to me with unknown Mooney knowledge wrenching on my airplane for a prebuy.

Exactly what I was thinking. Check where you’ve got the SF set. It should have the proper dip switch settings for 20deg, but the light goes on at tdc. It can be confusing. During runup it will be on fixed timing, but at whatever you've set it up to do…

After landing (oil 180+), you will likely see yellow range at 1000rpm too. The lower yellow range though. Again, normal.

Also, still happens with multi weight oil but probably not as much. Nothing wrong with 100 but as it cools, maybe consider Phillips xc 20w-50.

Sounds pretty normal to me. With cool oil you’ll see higher pressure. When you’re seeing normal oil temperatures around 180 you should see mid /upper green at full power.

Dmax in Longview tx is probably your best bet. Thorough, fair, most Mooney knowledge there is. KGGG.

Try this. its at the bottom. don’t over tighten the nut. mine kept leaking until we tightened the bottom nut and the fuel line small bits back and forth to keep everything level as it tightened.

I replaced those gaskets last year with a kit from lasar and posted a picture. Let’s see if we can find that thread…

These “tweener” ones are sometimes worse than a hot start that’s been sitting for a while. I find it easy to flood it. You are just looking for the right fuel to air mixture, but you have no idea how much fuel has or has not been shot into the cylinders. Nothing wrong with starting at full throttle and slowly retarding it until it fires. That’s basically a flooded start. When she fires you have to do a dance to get the throttle back to 1000 RPM and the mixture in to keep the engine running. Here’s something you did right. Try the hot start first. Then if that doesn’t work, prime it. But now you’ve committed to a flooded start. Once it’s run and you’re in the “tweener”, there really isn’t a place for a “normal start” as much as you want that to be the case. I’ve been there and tried the normal start. You’re better off trying hot start, then flooded start if it doesn’t start. finally, if this keeps happening or it’s taking more than 8 to 10 blades as @Marauder suggested, look into your plugs and ignition system. They need to be solid to get quality Hot starts.

Ouch.

Any chance it’s a sticky vslve that can be reamed in place iaw the lyc sb? If not, last time i needed one, western skyways had a first run OHd available immediately for me.

To be honest, I didn’t see increased oil use either. I’m pretty anal and I have a jpi-930, so I have good data, but it was pretty hard to tell when break in was “complete”. I flew her hard for 10 hours following the lycoming guidance, then used ROP around 65% or higher for some trips (which is pretty much the lycoming guidance anyway), and then I flew her as desired (sometimes LOP lower power). I did definitely use Mineral oil and changed oil at 10 hours and 25 hours. Mike Busch has some stuff on breaking in with xc20w-50 if you like, but definitely no additives for a while. After the 25 hours I switched to my normal oil. After ~50 I started putting cam guard in again. If you follow the lyc guidance and the engine is running fine, I would probably just be happy.

I’ve broken in new (OHd) cylinders on mine and not had high temps. Where are you? What’s the OAT? Keep up the high power, you probably be just fine.